What about having the woofer in the front as low as possible and then a slot port on the backside? Will that work or will i have to place the boxes 50cm from the wall for it to work?
Two old rules-of-thumb (ROT): the vent should be at least 3r (or 1d) from any reflective boundary, so convert any non-round vent area to the area of a circle to find its radius (r) and diameter (d). Obviously, the 3r distance is longer, so is the more conservative choice. The reality can be a somewhat longer distance if it's a high Xmax driver driven hard at Fb, but I prefer rear exit vents when near a wall since I can experiment with spacing to get a bit of extra vent loading and if there's too much higher frequencies coming out the vent, then placing a pad, pillow/whatever behind it makes for a quick/easy fix.
GM
GM
Thanks GM, but that didn't make much sense to me 😀
Hopefully i can convince my parents to allow me to throw out the Ikea drawer and replace it with a DIY Hi-fi rack. So in that way i can get another 20cm of space on the wall. Might be possible to fit subs, a rack and a pair of speaker stands...
If i would make a normal enclosure for the subs, how wide does it have to be if i want to make it as slim as possible?
I have 220cm to use, around 60cm will be for the rack, and i guess around 80-90cm for both stands so i got 70-80cm for two subs. Will be difficult i think...
Would it be best to place the subs or the speakers closest to the rack (and furthest away from corner and door)?
Hopefully i can convince my parents to allow me to throw out the Ikea drawer and replace it with a DIY Hi-fi rack. So in that way i can get another 20cm of space on the wall. Might be possible to fit subs, a rack and a pair of speaker stands...
If i would make a normal enclosure for the subs, how wide does it have to be if i want to make it as slim as possible?
I have 220cm to use, around 60cm will be for the rack, and i guess around 80-90cm for both stands so i got 70-80cm for two subs. Will be difficult i think...
Would it be best to place the subs or the speakers closest to the rack (and furthest away from corner and door)?
You're welcome!
Sorry, but don't know how to further clarify it, so maybe get one the Swedish advanced DIYers here to translate?
For subs designed for today's low Vas drivers, it need be only wide enough to physically mount it and if you mean how deep, then only deep enough to give some 'breathing space' for the driver's rear vent. If no rear vent, then the magnet can be right up against the cab's rear wall. I've even cut out a shallow indentation for it to support/brace the driver.
Sounds like you're 'caught between a rock and hard place' WRT speaker placement, but I would rather have speakers flush front with a large rack than one in a corner and the other near an open doorway, but ideally you would try all the position options to find what combination sounds subjectively the best.
GM
Sorry, but don't know how to further clarify it, so maybe get one the Swedish advanced DIYers here to translate?
For subs designed for today's low Vas drivers, it need be only wide enough to physically mount it and if you mean how deep, then only deep enough to give some 'breathing space' for the driver's rear vent. If no rear vent, then the magnet can be right up against the cab's rear wall. I've even cut out a shallow indentation for it to support/brace the driver.
Sounds like you're 'caught between a rock and hard place' WRT speaker placement, but I would rather have speakers flush front with a large rack than one in a corner and the other near an open doorway, but ideally you would try all the position options to find what combination sounds subjectively the best.
GM
WRT speaker placement?
Speakers flush front with a large rack than one in a corner and the other near an open doorway? :O
If i make the inside dimensions 40x31x40 (cm) where 31 is width it's a box that is 49,6l and the size is okay if i build in 22mm MDF/Particle board and an extra thick baffle.
Should i make the box bigger since the driver and possible braces takes up some volume?
Speakers flush front with a large rack than one in a corner and the other near an open doorway? :O
If i make the inside dimensions 40x31x40 (cm) where 31 is width it's a box that is 49,6l and the size is okay if i build in 22mm MDF/Particle board and an extra thick baffle.
Should i make the box bigger since the driver and possible braces takes up some volume?
Currently in the process of cutting the pieces for a ~42l sealed box. 8 done so far, 4 remaining. Had to take a break due to crappy work table (20cm off the floor 😛), also to warm up my body, it's -5c and I've been out for three hours now.
I use to abuse myself like that when I was young and older folks would admonish me that it would come back to haunt me 'big time' when I was older and they weren't kidding!
GM
GM
Well, all pieces done now. I'm sure it would've been a lot less painful if I haden't been at the gym working on my deadlift yesterday 😛
Hopefully I got time tomorrow to start putting the pieces together to a box.
How important is dampening sealed enclosures?
Hopefully I got time tomorrow to start putting the pieces together to a box.
How important is dampening sealed enclosures?
Well, you don't want it to sound 'hollow', so l normally only lined one wall, back, bottom with just enough felt or fiberglass insulation to quell it, but it's really a personal choice, so you may want to experiment a bit by ear and if there's a female involved, let her choose as she will typically be more sensitive to a speaker's harmonic structure.
GM
GM
Okay... I think I'll just put something soft in there. I doubt my mom would hear any difference at all 😛
I wouldn't count on it unless she's really old or has a medical condition as I'm closing in on 66 and I've got some female neighbors older than me that still have much of their hearing. Guess, it's their natural sensitivity to a child's distress signals.
GM
GM
Sealed boxes. 22mm particle board, sealed from the inside with silicone. Damped with some glassfibre wool I found in the garage. Currently XOing them at ~80Hz. 12dB boost at ~25-30Hz to extend the bass a little further. Good output to about 35Hz I guess. Amplifier is bottle-necking though, 50w per channel wont let me play very loud.
Also applied some EQ with foobar. -5dB at 45-55Hz because of room response. Also boosted 90-100Hz with 1.5dB.
Tried connecting them to my much stronger HK amplifier. I can play loud enough to make everything in my room and the surrounding rooms rattle. Been listening like this for maybe half an hour but now it's time to switch back, starting to get headache 😛
Like this it's pretty much good output to 36-37Hz and starting to get silent at about 26-27Hz.
Like this it's pretty much good output to 36-37Hz and starting to get silent at about 26-27Hz.
GM, your illusions about females aren´t illusions at all - the better looking sex ( statistically, present companions excluded of course ) do have better midrange hearing. Caring for children is the job evolution specialized them for ( and don´t listen to creationists, few of them look very evolved ).
Hunters stalkers and fighters like us are tuned for transients. A band of drums&fifes, like a dry twig being trodden on, immediately runs our fire control radar up - females go for sound, we go for first wavefront to get the bearings.
Pit
P.S. You at close to 66, me at 59 come 6th of May...it´s a pity we can´t remember all of it. Oldtimers´ or whatever it´s called.
Hunters stalkers and fighters like us are tuned for transients. A band of drums&fifes, like a dry twig being trodden on, immediately runs our fire control radar up - females go for sound, we go for first wavefront to get the bearings.
Pit
P.S. You at close to 66, me at 59 come 6th of May...it´s a pity we can´t remember all of it. Oldtimers´ or whatever it´s called.
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