Seems to be atleast 154mm to be able to fit the driver. 170mm when flush-mounted. So i guess it has to be around 200mm wide?
Making the box 81x20x31.1 inside dimensions gives 50l. Having the box just 35.6cm deep (including 22mm material thickness) makes it possible to get a slot port at the front.
Only "active" over "x" BW?
So i will have to make a wall in my room? That will be impossible :S
I personally don't like to 'squeeze' drivers into a minimum space, i.e. I advocate/use fairly wide baffles referenced to the driver's size, but don't have any experience with woofers that work in cabs that barely displace more volume than the driver, so I'll let Dave & Co. answer this one.
Like I said, doorways act same as speaker cab vents, i.e. Helmholtz resonators, so have a limited bandwidth of a fundamental and some harmonics and once you know the room's volume, the doorway's area and depth, it can be easily calculated.
A relatively small one ~36 cm deep and ~room height or ~2.4 m (whichever is shorter) that only loads down through the mids can be either attached to the room wall with Velcro and a diagonal floor level brace to stabilize it or to the speaker system and gasketed to the wall. Some folks just make a 'L' shaped false wall corner like Klipsch recommends for its Klipschorn. Any of these can be done in an apt. or other rented dwelling if that's what worries you. If it's a WAF 'thing', that's your problem.
GM
I gotta quit posting before the morning caffeine kicks in....... I read it simply as 'significantly different'............ 🙁
🙂
I'm addicted to caffiene too
dave
It is definately a WAF thing. I don't think my parents would allow me to do such a thing 😉
I think i should be able to estimate the room volume later today maybe.
I think i should be able to estimate the room volume later today maybe.
Oh well, digital EQ it is then and if it's not in the budget, about all I can think of at the moment is to use the channel balance control to shift more of the signal to the doorway speakers.
GM
GM
Digital EQ... How does it work? What can i do with it?
Is it a box i buy, connect it to my computer and place a following microphone at the listening position? What does one cost?
Is it a box i buy, connect it to my computer and place a following microphone at the listening position? What does one cost?
Look for a DSP (Digital Sound Processor). I still use a rather old Behringer Ultracurve and it´s a bag of clever tricks - and newer things are a lot cheaper than what I paid for it.
As to GM´s not loving too small cabs for bass drivers - bloody right he is, as usual. One German magazine advocates tiny cabs with a crateful of capacitors as high pass...puke and doublepuke. Listening to them, you always feel like you see someone who has just missed the bus and keeps running behind it. Waste of amp power, too.
Pit
As to GM´s not loving too small cabs for bass drivers - bloody right he is, as usual. One German magazine advocates tiny cabs with a crateful of capacitors as high pass...puke and doublepuke. Listening to them, you always feel like you see someone who has just missed the bus and keeps running behind it. Waste of amp power, too.
Pit
I read this review of the Behringer Ultracurve 8024: Behringer Ultracurve Pro 8024 Digital Equaliser by Thorsten Loesch
It sounds like a Digital EQ with automatic calibration would be a really good thing for me. And it can still be used if i decide to sell everything else.
The question is how much one would cost. The UC 8024 seems to be discontinued.
And where do i connect it? Straight after the computer with an optic toslink and then do some EQ-magic inside the box and then send it to the amplifier/amplifiers with optical/analog cable?
Digital EQ seems to be very interesting, hehe 😉
It sounds like a Digital EQ with automatic calibration would be a really good thing for me. And it can still be used if i decide to sell everything else.
The question is how much one would cost. The UC 8024 seems to be discontinued.
And where do i connect it? Straight after the computer with an optic toslink and then do some EQ-magic inside the box and then send it to the amplifier/amplifiers with optical/analog cable?
Digital EQ seems to be very interesting, hehe 😉
Behringer DEQ 2496 Ultra-Curve Bundle
You connect it between PC / preamp / whatever you use and amplifier.
For room measuring and auto calibration you just plug the microphone in and push a button.
As to that review: Thorsten ( aka Peter Pan, aka Thunderstone, aka a few other names ) is a pro, and one of the few people whose ears and knowledge I trust. ( 😀 his eyes too; you ought to see his wife - what a stunner! )
You connect it between PC / preamp / whatever you use and amplifier.
For room measuring and auto calibration you just plug the microphone in and push a button.
As to that review: Thorsten ( aka Peter Pan, aka Thunderstone, aka a few other names ) is a pro, and one of the few people whose ears and knowledge I trust. ( 😀 his eyes too; you ought to see his wife - what a stunner! )
Than Pit!
I've decided to try without any EQ first and see how it works, and then get it if i think i need it (which i probably will). Building with the RSW-1060 subs makes me able to chose between either SDX10 subs or the EQ and to be honest i think i will pick the EQ after reading what it can do 😉
But... It will work without problem since i have the Reckhorn S-1?
By the way, how good is the DAC in that Behringer-unit? Maybe if i could use it as DAC aswell?
Edit #2: It's good that it has toslink output and RCA output!
I've decided to try without any EQ first and see how it works, and then get it if i think i need it (which i probably will). Building with the RSW-1060 subs makes me able to chose between either SDX10 subs or the EQ and to be honest i think i will pick the EQ after reading what it can do 😉
But... It will work without problem since i have the Reckhorn S-1?
By the way, how good is the DAC in that Behringer-unit? Maybe if i could use it as DAC aswell?
Edit #2: It's good that it has toslink output and RCA output!
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No idea about the DAC of the new model - my guess is it will be even better than my old steamship, which would make it pretty damn good.
Write CASH on your Xmas wishlist and have a go.😀
Write CASH on your Xmas wishlist and have a go.😀
Hehe. Do you think it would be better than the one in my current HK amplifier (HK3490)?
When reading on internet i found this about my HK3490: According to the technical assistance people at HK the 3490 uses an AK4384 as its DAC and also employs as DSP the CS48560
Would be nice if the one in the Behringer was better 😉
Btw, cash is always on the top of the wishlist 😉
When reading on internet i found this about my HK3490: According to the technical assistance people at HK the 3490 uses an AK4384 as its DAC and also employs as DSP the CS48560
Would be nice if the one in the Behringer was better 😉
Btw, cash is always on the top of the wishlist 😉
Humm... I feel a lot richer now. Got almost $1000 available to spend on stuff.
But i can't spend it on anything really untill i finish my subs.
Well. The box i'd really like to build is a box which is around 80cm tall, maximum 40cm deep and as wide as it has to be to fit a flush-mounted SDX10 on one of the sides. The port is a slot-port on the front which ends in the bottom front of the box. The front will be a piece of oak, with a cut-out for the slot-port to end forward. And ofcourse i will optimize the airflow somehow since there is a 90-degree turn at the end of the port.
Would it be possible to design a box like that? Would it work?
If i spend like $100 on materials for the boxes i still have enough money for sub-amplifier, another amp for my Mar-Kel70 AND a Behringer Ultracurve and hopefully an Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Preamp 🙂
But i can't spend it on anything really untill i finish my subs.
Well. The box i'd really like to build is a box which is around 80cm tall, maximum 40cm deep and as wide as it has to be to fit a flush-mounted SDX10 on one of the sides. The port is a slot-port on the front which ends in the bottom front of the box. The front will be a piece of oak, with a cut-out for the slot-port to end forward. And ofcourse i will optimize the airflow somehow since there is a 90-degree turn at the end of the port.
Would it be possible to design a box like that? Would it work?
If i spend like $100 on materials for the boxes i still have enough money for sub-amplifier, another amp for my Mar-Kel70 AND a Behringer Ultracurve and hopefully an Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Preamp 🙂
Hmmm. With a side mounted woofer you have to xover very low or you´ll be in trouble. And solid wood...rather you than me, my friend. Wood "works" - it contracts and expands with changes in air humidity. It might split or tear your box to pieces.
(OK, so I´m a pessimist.)
(OK, so I´m a pessimist.)
Hmmm. With a side mounted woofer you have to xover very low or you´ll be in trouble. And solid wood...rather you than me, my friend. Wood "works" - it contracts and expands with changes in air humidity. It might split or tear your box to pieces.
(OK, so I´m a pessimist.)
Ah, i'll XO pretty high (around 80hz and maybe higher, don't know for sure yet) so it seems like i'll have to redesign the box...
But, the solid wood has been in the store for quite a while. Shouldn't it be safe to use?
It might, but using chipboard or MDF and veneering is safer. Hell, you live in a country where you might get veneer of what we call "Swamp Oak" - oaks that have lain in a bog for decades. Criminally expensive when you have to buy a whole pack, but absolutely beautiful.
It wont look as good as a piece of real oak, to fit with my desktop. I've got some Ikea stuff which is veneer or something similar and it looks grey and boring. My desk looks more warm and full of life.
See attached picture for an example (sorry for the mess).
See attached picture for an example (sorry for the mess).
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>My desk looks more warm and full of life.<
Get the three weeks old sandwiches out of the drawer and shoot the rats.
Get the three weeks old sandwiches out of the drawer and shoot the rats.
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