What enclosure for those subs?

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Having seen a picture of where they are likely to be placed the terminus will be very close to the wall.

dave

OK, but without all the details of the proposed system including at least some idea of the room's gain (if any), I'm still always going to recommend as much acoustic gain as practical for tuning flexibility, especially with such a high F3 (for a 'sub') since I'd rather attenuate than boost a signal (greatest practical dynamic headroom), so we'll have to agree to disagree.

GM
 
You're welcome!

Frankly, considering the body of knowledge available learned from building all manner of buildings, bridges, cars, planes, explosion proof containers, sonic boom generators, etc., I don't see how there's any room for dispute.

GM

Hi GM /All,

The devil is in the details and determining cost effectiveness. MDF is near
ubiquitous commercially because of its cost effectiveness and to some its
additional mass over ply, in the end it boils down to as you say the end
engineering properties of the enclosure, however you do it.

rgds, /Sreten.
 
So... The best enclosure is a TL?
And having them close to wall is not a problem at all. It's just very good actually.

'Best' is a variable based on the needs of the app which so far about all I know is it needs to be cheap and mate to a relatively inefficient 'FR' driver (assuming they haven't changed since its initial release that I have (I think?).

Since the sub may need to be up to +6 dB more sensitive to keep from eating up what little dynamic headroom the EL70 has, the TL, sealed, BR alignments come up way short and only the undamped TL can even ~match it, so either more drivers or higher gain pipe horns seem 'best'.

GM
 
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Now the drivers are in my room!
But. Is there any way to make sure they're working right? They were quite badly packaged and i don't want to build cabinets and then find out that one or both subs is not working and i can't get new similar ones.
It feels like i will need a XO but is it possible without?
 
Now the drivers are in my room!
But. Is there any way to make sure they're working right? They were quite
badly packaged and i don't want to build cabinets and then find out that
one or both subs is not working and i can't get new similar ones.
It feels like i will need a XO but is it possible without?

Hi,

Stick some music through them, if they sound the same everything
should be fine, if they sound different something is wrong. If they
are both wrong then its more difficult without test equipment.

rgds, sreten.
 
Hi,

Stick some music through them, if they sound the same everything
should be fine, if they sound different something is wrong. If they
are both wrong then its more difficult without test equipment.

rgds, sreten.

Just hook them up to my amplifier with no crossover directly from the back of the amplifier to the drivers in openair? Just want to make sure i don't break anything, it would be stupid.
 
Right, just lay them face up, set the amp to mono and switch between them with the balance control and as long as they don't sound obviously different/damaged they are probably OK. Of course adjust the volume control so that they don't move more than a few mm on any kick drum, electric bass, etc. since we don't know what its excursion limits are.

GM
 
Tried them today. Very low volume and started with some easy rock-music. At first i thought both of them was okay but then i turned the volume up one step so i could hear it a little better. One of them started to like rattle and sound pretty bad. Tried some other songs and still the same. Switched cables from the working one to this bad one and still the same. So, one of the woofers is bad. I tried to call the place i bought them from but they closed their phone-support for like 20 minutes ago :S
I've mailed them though. If i can't get a new WORKING one they'll have to take them back.

Btw. They were shipped with insufficient protection aswell. Just some plastic bags in a weak little box (of.. dunno the name but it's like paper, wellpapp?). I told them that i hooked them up to see if they were working because of that bad shipping and that one of them didn't sound good.
 
One of them started to like rattle and sound pretty bad.

If i can't get a new WORKING one they'll have to take them back.

Just some plastic bags in a weak little box (of.. dunno the name but it's like paper, wellpapp?).

Bummer.

Only if they are a reputable company........ they seem to be 'few and far between' around here these days. The evening news is full of stories about ripping folks off, especially the elderly.

Dunno. What few drivers I've received in recent years were all either extremely well packed using bubble wrap or Styrofoam 'peanuts', or plastic bags filled with expanding foam to create a solid cocoon within the cardboard box. The latter was particularly effective since they arrived so beat up that the drivers otherwise would have been trashed.

Anyway, hope you can get another one or a good deal on a different driver if they don't have any more of these. I have to wonder how well these are going to perform over time though, even if they had arrived in pristine shape.

GM
 
They are a reputable company. My current speakers (not the sub) are from that company (but i didn't buy them, i bought them used). I was actually shocked about how they were packed. Incredibly bad.

Why do you wonder how they will perform over time?
 
Hm.. how were the speakers placed when you did the test?
At the center of the magnet back, is a big vent hole.

Fynda is a notorious bad packer. Just tell them to send you one new speaker.

Fynny, i looked att my papers and see that my cabinets are 54,45 liter.
F3 17,8Hz and with roomgain my four cabinets give good pressure down to 20Hz in my livingroom. I can´t say anything about distortion, normal musicplaying one can hardly see the cones are working. Well, playing Avratz 6min in, one can see the cones make som heavy moves.🙂

Thinking of a try with isobaric, it looks so nice in simulation program.
Did Limpmessure impedance in isobaric config and the result looks promising.
 
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OK, but without all the details of the proposed system including at least some idea of the room's gain (if any), I'm still always going to recommend as much acoustic gain as practical for tuning flexibility, especially with such a high F3 (for a 'sub') since I'd rather attenuate than boost a signal (greatest practical dynamic headroom), so we'll have to agree to disagree.

It was your suggestion for 2 folds to get the height right... both the terminus & driver can't be at the same end as long as the driver is end loaded.

dave
 
Well, I implied it, but didn't recommend it:

"It's 80" long, so folding it in half will make it a bit tall for a stand and in fourths maybe a bit too low, but thirds puts either the driver or terminus up off the floor too much for max boundary loading."

It's up to the OP to decide what trade-offs to make though.

GM
 
At the center of the magnet back, is a big vent hole.

Fynny, i looked att my papers and see that my cabinets are 54,45 liter.
F3 17,8Hz.......

Thinking of a try with isobaric............

For low level testing to confirm they work, not a problem.

The actual specs must be quite a bit different then........

Why?, It's already a small box.

GM
 
Well. The driver that didn't sound very good was like... It looked like it have had a sticker on the back of the magnet but then removed and some was left on it. The other functioning had no such thing. It was clean.
How tall will the 4 and 2 folded ones be?
 
I had a mail this morning saying they would send me a new driver directly.
I just wrote it was rattling and then they write they'll send me a new one. Not bad actually...
I wonder what i'll do with the broken one. Maybe use it for measuring when building 😀
 
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