It´s a subwoofer not a regular woofer. Do not use them over 100Hz.
Active crossover is a must.
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Just purchased two RSW-1060's. Will get them in 2-3 days i hope.
Ports? What dimension? Where do i get them? What material?
Ports? What dimension? Where do i get them? What material?
WinISD can simulate square/rectangular ports too, so if you like, you can make your ports out of wood instead of plastic tubing. I use this approach myself.
I think plastic tubing is quite easier. Isn't it?
So, what's the "best" box for those subs actually? Is it like 55l tuned at 25hz?
It feels like 25hz is a little too low for my needs but if i turn it up to like 30-35 i get a nasty curve :S
So, what's the "best" box for those subs actually? Is it like 55l tuned at 25hz?
It feels like 25hz is a little too low for my needs but if i turn it up to like 30-35 i get a nasty curve :S
I think i've decided to go with 55l and tuned at 25hz. But i need some advices on the ports.
I am about to order some speaker terminals for my Mar-Kel70's and i thought i could get the tubes aswell. Bu how long, what diameter?
I am about to order some speaker terminals for my Mar-Kel70's and i thought i could get the tubes aswell. Bu how long, what diameter?
Seems a reasonable choice, all things considered.
What is its Xmax, Pe? Your amp's output rating? Without these about all one can do is size the vent area either large to keep its vent mach < 17 m/sec which means it will be long enough to be a ~70 Hz TL all by itself or make it way too small to keep it short and stuff both it and the cab as required to make it ~aperiodic, i.e. a sealed alignment except with a bit more LF gain BW.
GM
What is its Xmax, Pe? Your amp's output rating? Without these about all one can do is size the vent area either large to keep its vent mach < 17 m/sec which means it will be long enough to be a ~70 Hz TL all by itself or make it way too small to keep it short and stuff both it and the cab as required to make it ~aperiodic, i.e. a sealed alignment except with a bit more LF gain BW.
GM
I don't know either Xmax or Pe to be honest. Maybe you can find something useful: http://fynda.se/bilder/datablad-rsw-1060.pdf
The amp i will be using is XTZ Sub-Amp 1. XTZ | Sound in balance
It's rated at 300w i think.
The amp i will be using is XTZ Sub-Amp 1. XTZ | Sound in balance
It's rated at 300w i think.
Well, unless it has a lot of Xmax or at least a lot of travel before it bottoms out, 200 W is probably going to be its upper usable limit.
Frankly, this driver needs to be either sealed or TL loaded with the latter being required to go low with some authority plus it would have less bulk than the damped BR to boot, though a little more complex to build if it can't be very tall.
GM
Frankly, this driver needs to be either sealed or TL loaded with the latter being required to go low with some authority plus it would have less bulk than the damped BR to boot, though a little more complex to build if it can't be very tall.
GM
Very tall? Well, i don't mind if i could place my Mar-Kel70's on them at a reasonable height. Would just save me from buying speaker stands or something.
Hi,
the smoothest place for a speaker to drve a room is ~ 1/3 along all dimensions.
The sort of place you could but standmounters / floorstanders but not subwoofers.
Placement of subwoofers is largely determined by convenience. Typically they are placed
at the wall floor boundary with the only tuning option being at what point along the
wall they are placed. Generally a single sub should be placed ~>2/3 along the side or rear
wall, lets assume the left side wall. For dual subwoofers reproducing the same signal the
second subwoofer should then be placed ~>2/3 along the rear wall going from left to right
or if the first is placed here then the second would be placed ~>2/3 along the left wall.
The image of ~>2/3 along the right side wall and ~<1/3 along the rear wall left to right is
also as valid.
Some advocate corner loading of subwoofers and in some cases it may work best but
there is no justification (other than maximising upper bass volume) as to why this should
give the best results.
Some attempt at smoothing the driving of the room modes should be made.
😎 Sreten.
Thanks for the attemps to make me understand, sreten. But i think it would be easiest with just a picture to describe it.
But with the TL. Isn't it just good at like a certain frequency? The quarter wave or whatever it is?
But i like the idea of a quite tall subwoofer. Using a subwoofer as a speaker stand was actually on my mind quite long ago. But i can't calculate that on my own. I've sent a mail to the store selling those drivers and i asked for Pe and Xmax values. I could try ask that guy who bought 12 of them and see if i he has a clue.
Is it okay to build subwoofers in MDF? Building such large ones in birchply seems a little overkill for a driver that costs around 40$ each. And then spend 150$ of materials for each box makes no sense. I'd rather spend like 50-60 if possible.
But with the TL. Isn't it just good at like a certain frequency? The quarter wave or whatever it is?
But i like the idea of a quite tall subwoofer. Using a subwoofer as a speaker stand was actually on my mind quite long ago. But i can't calculate that on my own. I've sent a mail to the store selling those drivers and i asked for Pe and Xmax values. I could try ask that guy who bought 12 of them and see if i he has a clue.
Is it okay to build subwoofers in MDF? Building such large ones in birchply seems a little overkill for a driver that costs around 40$ each. And then spend 150$ of materials for each box makes no sense. I'd rather spend like 50-60 if possible.
That is a pretty driver. I'd say your best bet for these is as large a sealed box as you can live with, make it leaky and damp towards an aperiodic box. Between the "small" box, the highish Q of the driver, and room gain you may find you need to EQ the bass down.
Sreten touches on using mono woofer placement to help smooth bass response. The best available treatise is from work done at Harmon.
Some of it here (2nd listed paper in particular), but best coverage i've seen is in Toole's book, Sound Reproduction. Required reading.
There is a thread here on a simillar, but not quite the same, approach by Geddes.
dave
Sreten touches on using mono woofer placement to help smooth bass response. The best available treatise is from work done at Harmon.
Some of it here (2nd listed paper in particular), but best coverage i've seen is in Toole's book, Sound Reproduction. Required reading.
There is a thread here on a simillar, but not quite the same, approach by Geddes.
dave
So. Do you recommend two sealed boxes that i make like as big as i can live with and i'm not very accurate at making them extremely air-tight? And then put lots of damping material in them?
I'd try to get them well sealed and then put the leask in myself -- see the array of small holes on the back of the speaker i posted above?
dave
dave
Yes i do see those holes. But wont it be a little difficult to get it right? Or is it just to drill a random amount of holes and hope it will be fine?
Hi,
A most misunderstood paper, only for if you have DSP and want the most
consistent response in room to be corrected by DSP, the premises always
leads to symmetric solutions. For no DSP If you want the most consistently
flat response the best arrangements are asymmetric and are not covered.
😎 /Sreten.
RKS :
FWIW 0.67 Qts drivers with 28L Vas are best used in a cars back shelf.
or as 28L sealed each "boom boxes", again typically used for in a car.
They are not good "subwoofers" and it will be a nightmare trying to get
them to work well. Big boxes are waste of time with 28L Vas. Aperiodic
will not help that much (it never does), they are just the wrong sort
of drivers, Qts is too high, Vas is too low, but the low Fs is good.
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But shouldn't it be possible to do something good with them?
Btw. These drivers cost just 1/3 of a Peerless SLS 10"....
Btw. These drivers cost just 1/3 of a Peerless SLS 10"....
You just lay out a grid with a ruler & a pencil and then drill.
Don't let Sreten discourage you...the idea with the aperiodic box is to try to emulate sticking them in the wall with the back hanging outside the house without actually doing that. I have been quite pleased with this approach when needed.
dave
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