What did you last repair?

Just fixed my fridge, the control unit became wonky and the sonalert would beep randomly. Online searching showed others with the same problem, and it turned out the lytics on the board were drying out. 100 uf showing 15 uf.. I chose to replace the entire unit with new, but also purchased the two caps that typically failed. In the future, I can simply refurbish the failed unit and put it in my inventory of house repair parts.

Also fixed a double oven, it kept giving me a fan not working error despite the fact that the fan was working. It has a hall sensor on the motor to sense rotation, as if the fan dies the walls of the external case will get hot. Purchased the entire assembly as I couldn't get just the hall sensor.
The "ahem" thing that I could get was an absolute mirror image of the one I needed, I hadn't realized that from the small photo posted on the site. Shaded pole motor rotates opposite, and on the wrong side of assembly.
I tried total disassembly, flipped the laminated iron 180 degrees, was almost done but then found the squirrel cage was not the same on both ends so could not be driven on the side required. The cage will only work effectively spinning in one direction.

So I ended up removing the hall sensor and used just that.

Lovely, a 180 dollar hall sensor assembly, but hey, the oven now works.. Broiled some awesome salmon last night.

John
 
A very rare dry joint.
I had an LED not working.
When I tried to replace it one leg just came out of pcb without heating it.
The solder had gathered around the pin but not stuck to it.
I can only guess the LED leg was oxidised ?
By gathered, do you mean it created a fillet by wicking? If so, that means the plating survived the soldering but failed later. I had a board fail with lots of relay leads perfectly soldered at the factory, but temp cycling over the years caused the fillets to open around the round leads.
When tin/silver or lead/tin freezes, it shrinks about 15% at phase change. This introduces tensile force, and if the leg has shabby plating, I could see it just detaching from the leg immediately after the perfect looking fillet solidifies.

If it is just thin tin plated on iron, the underlying iron will oxidize and the tin will dissolve during soldering. The iron underneath cannot be cleaned by normal flux as it is not designed to. Using a more aggressive RMA or RA flux is only going to be a long term headache no matter how much you clean the board.

John
 
Shows the strength of the upscaler. The Samsung's is quite good too, a nice step up from our previous Blu-Ray player, and better than our TV's upscaler (an older Philips).

On a whim, I attached my DIY AC Filter box (this was made for my audio playback chain, for high-rate native DSD + DAC into a Set Tube amp into Totem Mites on custom stands) to all the TV-related devices and the TV itself, and we got better pictures like that. I was surprised.

I made a power cable and tested it on the Samsung instead of the original cable supplied and that got us a little boost in quality as well.

The AC Filter box really cleaned up white light bleed as well as fixed some unnatural skin coloring we had even after I calibrated the TV.
 
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BTW, if you do get parts where the leads are poorly plated and the leads become unsolderable, you can use RA type flux and a solder pot to recover the solderability. Just be sure the flux is correct for the base metal, be it nickel, iron, stainless, nichrome, whatever. Go back and forth dipping the leads into flux and solder pot, and almost always the part will become perfectly solder finished. Do an aggressive cleaning, first with water, then a neutralizer, then water.. you don't want any acid remaining when you do final assembly.

John
 
Hall sensors are available on line, very common car part, and in a bewildering variety.
Cam angle sensors in engines are among the many uses, and maybe a tiny proximity sensor can be adapted if you have this issue again.
I would have hacked the sense signal, permanent fan on, rather than spend that kind of money, must be a large proportion of what a new one would cost, I mean how much is a brand new one?
 
Hall sensors are available on line, very common car part, and in a bewildering variety.
Cam angle sensors in engines are among the many uses, and maybe a tiny proximity sensor can be adapted if you have this issue again.
I would have hacked the sense signal, permanent fan on, rather than spend that kind of money, must be a large proportion of what a new one would cost, I mean how much is a brand new one?
Your suggestions would have been dirt cheap. In years gone by, I would probably have done the same. After all, how often does an impedance protected shaded pole motor fail?
That said, it is a safety feature, and I take safety very seriously so would no longer consider bypassing it. At this time in my life, 180 dollars is not a budget buster.

Without a schematic, simply putting in a hall sensor is something well beyond my capabilities to understand. If it were only two wires, I would have a 50-50 shot of getting it right. But three wires.. way beyond my understanding.

John
 
Cassette on its own recordings can be excellent, very very close to the original. Good alignment is key and even more so with noise reduction systems like Dolby C.

I said the tape has long gone, well that's true for normal use but I have mint condition Sony TCK5 and also another 'minter', a Sony WM6DC. That last was an acquisition, a refused repair estimate from a customer that had connected it incorrectly to a 12 volt socket on a car and zapped some print and blown the DC/DC convertor and servo motor control chip. All good now 😉 The quality is awesome.
 
So thats a walkman right? now i did have one of those a few years ago, not the one you had.I think it dropped into a water tank, maybe its still there!

maybe its my deck then,i was never into cassettes(pre recorded) but i did use them alot to record stuff and still have all of my old tapes including one of me learning to (trying to learn) the electric guitar of all things, and it sounds as you would imagine.
Funny enough i have an old NAD 6050C(yep its that brand again) cassette deck that doesnt work, i think it needs new belts and maybe other bits, not sure what the heads are like either.

But a reel to reel is what ive always wanted but never got round to it.
I own 2 very special reels(one is in the avitar) but too scared to put them through a machine, prob why i never brought one i guess.

maybe ill have a look at that cassette deck while i take a break from this mind bender of a maths session(natural rational,real,imaginary and factors prime numbers :violin:

about time i fixed it.
 
So thats a walkman right?

Its not just any Walkman, subjective audio quality is truly amazing and I've heard some say it rivals a Nakamichi for its record/replay quality.

https://walkmancentral.com/products/wm-d6c
The NAD cassette deck would make a great repair/restore/realignment project given you have a scope and generator. I've never had a reel to reel either, used to fancy one but it never happened.
 
Tape and vinyl deteriorate with use. I don't have tape anymore, and what vinyl I have will one day all be digitised for storage. High-rate native DSD is where it's been at for me for many years now and I had the specific goal of having a vinyl-level of analogue-sounding music but without the artefacts, which I did.