That's the story we now tell ourselves. I keep computers and audio for a lot longer than 2 years. And the average age of cars on the road keeps going up and up. My daily driver is 20 years old.
Perhaps these days we just pay someone to build us a new one, instead of paying them to fix what we own. While to cost might be about the same in the long run, the pile at the landfill isn't.
Audible Illusions 3a right chnl. Scratchy detents ( Elma stepped attn.) in certain spots and was able to get some deoxite gold down in there
ane now AoK
ane now AoK
Built up a DCC model railway controller.
Worked to start with then kept resetting.
Changed power supply, changed PIC micro but still the same.
Shorted over current detect but that made no difference so had to be noise in the power supply.
I changed input capacitor on LM317 to 47uF and that fixed it.
When I looked at the pcb layout it was rubbish.
Mixed in motor driver power supply and ground with PIC micro circuit hence noisy environment.
So back to drawing board with the pcb with separate power supplies to motor driver and PIC.
Must take more care with power supplies and grounding.
I usually do with amps but neglected it on this pcb.
Worked to start with then kept resetting.
Changed power supply, changed PIC micro but still the same.
Shorted over current detect but that made no difference so had to be noise in the power supply.
I changed input capacitor on LM317 to 47uF and that fixed it.
When I looked at the pcb layout it was rubbish.
Mixed in motor driver power supply and ground with PIC micro circuit hence noisy environment.
So back to drawing board with the pcb with separate power supplies to motor driver and PIC.
Must take more care with power supplies and grounding.
I usually do with amps but neglected it on this pcb.
The end of the female push on connector was in contact with the metal U shaped piece that created two male lugs so there was a point of contact. The cap was mounted to the same piece of sheet metal that held the fan that cools the magnetron, so there was a constant vibration. This created some constant intermittency in the connection.
Built up a brand new pcb.
Software told me there was a short on the output and it had been shutdown.
Prodded around and indeed there was over current signal into microcontroller.
Then spotted I had missed soldering in the current sense resistor.
Doh !
Software told me there was a short on the output and it had been shutdown.
Prodded around and indeed there was over current signal into microcontroller.
Then spotted I had missed soldering in the current sense resistor.
Doh !
I fixed a loose wire on a selector switch that was causing input 1 not to work but not until after I waited 3 weeks for a replacement DAC to install... Oh well, I have more digital inputs now.
A very rare dry joint.
I had an LED not working.
When I tried to replace it one leg just came out of pcb without heating it.
The solder had gathered around the pin but not stuck to it.
I can only guess the LED leg was oxidised ?
I had an LED not working.
When I tried to replace it one leg just came out of pcb without heating it.
The solder had gathered around the pin but not stuck to it.
I can only guess the LED leg was oxidised ?
LEDs leads now are tin plated iron... check with a magnet.
The coating is thin, and they later also get dry joints.
And the reputed makes have changed to high output devices.
Buy with care, and use soldering techniques intended for iron rather than copper.
The coating is thin, and they later also get dry joints.
And the reputed makes have changed to high output devices.
Buy with care, and use soldering techniques intended for iron rather than copper.
I use flux core solder, the LEDs that have been in storage tend to go dull, those I make rough with coarse abrasive paper or a needle file.
Unless I buy reels of 500, I never know what make those are, and the reputed ones are 3 to 5 times more expensive.
So in small quantities, anything goes.
Unless I buy reels of 500, I never know what make those are, and the reputed ones are 3 to 5 times more expensive.
So in small quantities, anything goes.
Two reversing lights in a 19 year old Toyota. Both bulbs had failed seemingly within a short space of each other. The filaments are intact but the filament to its support seems to be the problem. Never seen this before. I might try putting a higher voltage on it to see if it breaks down the white deposit and regains continuity.
i saw this once on an old cortina i had years ago where the lamp had lost its vaccum
Put LEDs...replacements LED bulbs are available with the same base for direct replacement.
Or hack it, put a 3 watt LED, with a drop resistor.
Those LEDs are 5p here, base another 5p, , resistor etc. are pennies.
I said p as in UK currency, your price may be higher.
Those bulbs are scrap, vacuum lost, corroded filament support, unsafe.
Could cost your MoT. Not worth that.
Real hack, in desperate situation is to remove the glass from the base, and use the base to support LEDs.
Your skills will decide the outcome.
But seriously, multi chip high brightness LED replacements are available in most common base types, and are not expensive at all.
Or hack it, put a 3 watt LED, with a drop resistor.
Those LEDs are 5p here, base another 5p, , resistor etc. are pennies.
I said p as in UK currency, your price may be higher.
Those bulbs are scrap, vacuum lost, corroded filament support, unsafe.
Could cost your MoT. Not worth that.
Real hack, in desperate situation is to remove the glass from the base, and use the base to support LEDs.
Your skills will decide the outcome.
But seriously, multi chip high brightness LED replacements are available in most common base types, and are not expensive at all.
https://www.amazon.in/AllExtreme-Pr...&hvtargid=pla-1410290339964&psc=1&ext_vrnc=hi
3 for 135 Rupees, or about 1.35 of your money.
3 for 135 Rupees, or about 1.35 of your money.