Kitchen Aid mixer. Started a batch of bread dough, took the dog for a 5 minute walk, thinking I'd be back shortly. After dropping him off, something in the garage caught my attention and I up 'n forgot about the job.
I was eventually awakened to screams over smoke pouring out of the mixer. No thermal protection apparently; just run till dead. I've never seen a rotor so thoroughly toasted; whole thing burned carbon black like a cinder until seizure in the armature...
Went shopping at the Goodwill on line store, $30 for used one, another $30 to ship. Said "tested working" in the listing. A week to pack, another week to ship, got it today. Defective and in need of major repair is what "tested working" means to them anyway.
There's a replaceable gear tower and the one in that one got chewed deep on one side, by the motor shaft drive mate. Apparently the metal is a lot better on the motor shaft, than that of the gear.
Anyway I saved everything from the old mixer and as luck would have it, the gear tower from the old one not only fit, it functioned! Couldnt help noticing the top bearing on the old part being larger than that of the newer machine. Hopefully the receiving gear metal is better too -
It was difficult pounding out the retaining pin on the main output gearhead; had to put a new taper on to remove my mushroom on the malleable ends, using my small drill press and a file.
Seems to run fine, now smooth and noise free. I'll try a 4 cup batch tomorrow morning. I've got an AC wall timer with a 15 minute button; hopefully I can use that to prevent another burn. This one seemed to have a few components on a small pcb at the end of the motor I didnt notice before; maybe it actually has a thermal sensor in it. Model KSM90, if anyone knows.
I know I should change the grease. That looks to be an all-day job, probably involving gasoline and a good portion of my rag pile. It was nearly an untenable mess just opening it up; could not avoid grease prints on it handling the thing. Closest thing to it I've repaired was a riding lawnmower transmission, where just they shoot a bunch of grease in there, close it up and send it on its way.
Gears say: "grease, grease everywhere; not a drop to drink".
I was eventually awakened to screams over smoke pouring out of the mixer. No thermal protection apparently; just run till dead. I've never seen a rotor so thoroughly toasted; whole thing burned carbon black like a cinder until seizure in the armature...
Went shopping at the Goodwill on line store, $30 for used one, another $30 to ship. Said "tested working" in the listing. A week to pack, another week to ship, got it today. Defective and in need of major repair is what "tested working" means to them anyway.
There's a replaceable gear tower and the one in that one got chewed deep on one side, by the motor shaft drive mate. Apparently the metal is a lot better on the motor shaft, than that of the gear.
Anyway I saved everything from the old mixer and as luck would have it, the gear tower from the old one not only fit, it functioned! Couldnt help noticing the top bearing on the old part being larger than that of the newer machine. Hopefully the receiving gear metal is better too -
It was difficult pounding out the retaining pin on the main output gearhead; had to put a new taper on to remove my mushroom on the malleable ends, using my small drill press and a file.
Seems to run fine, now smooth and noise free. I'll try a 4 cup batch tomorrow morning. I've got an AC wall timer with a 15 minute button; hopefully I can use that to prevent another burn. This one seemed to have a few components on a small pcb at the end of the motor I didnt notice before; maybe it actually has a thermal sensor in it. Model KSM90, if anyone knows.
I know I should change the grease. That looks to be an all-day job, probably involving gasoline and a good portion of my rag pile. It was nearly an untenable mess just opening it up; could not avoid grease prints on it handling the thing. Closest thing to it I've repaired was a riding lawnmower transmission, where just they shoot a bunch of grease in there, close it up and send it on its way.
Gears say: "grease, grease everywhere; not a drop to drink".
It mixed, without hiccup, the 4 cup recipe; a cranberry nut bread I so enjoy - two slices with an egg every morning... Glad the wait is over, or is it?
Try front axle grease. It is high temperature long life and quite decent in price, we get 150 grans or so tubes here for servicing joints.
Here in India, now I am finally unable to find some parts like a spare body for my 1982 'Sumeet' mixer, if I want to retain the old coupling, if I use the newer coupling, still available.
Just a few months got a new body and motor fitted for a 20 year old stick mixer, $7.50 with labor, new one is about $15, but the motor on those is aluminum wound, not so reliable.
Here in India, now I am finally unable to find some parts like a spare body for my 1982 'Sumeet' mixer, if I want to retain the old coupling, if I use the newer coupling, still available.
Just a few months got a new body and motor fitted for a 20 year old stick mixer, $7.50 with labor, new one is about $15, but the motor on those is aluminum wound, not so reliable.
Like a Ohm Walsh voice coil used anodized aluminum? I thought so, anyway.
Fixed a wood chair. Teen sat down on it hard; sheared the front wood piece holding the two front legs clean off. Mom screamed -
Elmer's yellow hopefully holds it together for rest of its, if not our life. The outline is the chip that ripped off the top of the wood; two glue steps to fix. There's another, albeit smaller feature on the other side that got glued and clamped as well, as a first step.. Of course they didnt go back in quite the same way, so I had to trim the ends to match the flat; one side with the table saw, the other with my Makita mini rotary, whose max depth missed by 1/8", which finally yielded to a file.
Coulda wiped the glue a bit better I suppose, but it's well beneath the cushion and I'm not Steve Jobs.
Well, it is the last thing I repaired!
Aluminum in the coils, instead of copper..it is relatively brittle, life is less due to heat cycling.
And the wire tends to be thicker than copper, so the motor is not so efficient.
It is much cheaper than copper so for a purchase manager, it is very tempting, if it lasts just past warranty, money saved.
Customer and company reputation can take a hike, as the manager will move to a different job with this 'achievement' in his CV.
And the wire tends to be thicker than copper, so the motor is not so efficient.
It is much cheaper than copper so for a purchase manager, it is very tempting, if it lasts just past warranty, money saved.
Customer and company reputation can take a hike, as the manager will move to a different job with this 'achievement' in his CV.
Today was one I had been avoiding for a while, water leaking out of our DeLonghi Magnifica espresso machine. It had reached the point where it could no longer brew a cup of any kind.
Taking the cover off and running it showed that it had the common failure of a leaking heater water connection. Taking it apart showed that 1 of the 2 o-rings at the connection was completely severed. It also looked like it had been repaired previously, which was possible because I bought it as factory refurbished.
Putting it back together with 2 new o-rings did not fix the leak. Slipped a 3rd in; that lessened the leak but not completely. At this point I started to consider more major surgery, but no obvious solution as this is a troublesome joint, cycling every day from cold to hot to cold. So, not having much to lose, I slipped a 4th o-ring in; that did it, leaking stopped.
Taking the cover off and running it showed that it had the common failure of a leaking heater water connection. Taking it apart showed that 1 of the 2 o-rings at the connection was completely severed. It also looked like it had been repaired previously, which was possible because I bought it as factory refurbished.
Putting it back together with 2 new o-rings did not fix the leak. Slipped a 3rd in; that lessened the leak but not completely. At this point I started to consider more major surgery, but no obvious solution as this is a troublesome joint, cycling every day from cold to hot to cold. So, not having much to lose, I slipped a 4th o-ring in; that did it, leaking stopped.
Stacked O rings, eh? My Saeco / Starbucks machine seems pretty solid - even I, one of the most neglectful beings on the planet (reason I own Subaru / Toyota etc) cant kill it.
I've taken to using the steam function to super heat the tank, then brew; the top gets so hot still but still wont die. I tripped the OT safety once, thought I'd killed its heater - nope, next morning, back in op. I see them less often complete and for reasonable money these days. Have at least two for backup; I'll probably quit coffee before I can kill the in-use instance, let alone them all.
High temperature form in place gasket material, as used in engines, might work, the red silicon material is an example.
It will fill the areas where corrosion has removed metal.
I would see if it is food safe.
Silicon rubber 'O' rings will tolerate a higher working temperature, that can also be considered.
It will fill the areas where corrosion has removed metal.
I would see if it is food safe.
Silicon rubber 'O' rings will tolerate a higher working temperature, that can also be considered.
And what did the divorce cost ?My wife's shoes. Methyl hydrate to clean and a hot glue gun saved me $100.
I fixed our smaller stove top pressure cooker. Chicken legs inside, warm, still needing more cook time.
Wife / teenager somehow jammed the top from rotating to open. All my might wouldnt turn it - thought I was going to snap the handle off. A large and small vice grip to coax it back "into thread" and the last pop I heard set 'er back square and she turned freely. Bent back into better alignment a couple of top thread portions and ready to use again.
It's jammed before and I cant imagine how one even gets it to do that!
Wife / teenager somehow jammed the top from rotating to open. All my might wouldnt turn it - thought I was going to snap the handle off. A large and small vice grip to coax it back "into thread" and the last pop I heard set 'er back square and she turned freely. Bent back into better alignment a couple of top thread portions and ready to use again.
It's jammed before and I cant imagine how one even gets it to do that!
Fixing a tea strainer where a rivet got loose. Why buy a new, even if it is cheap when a simple fix can make it work again.
Yes. Why buy new, especially if it is cheap! Nowadays New and Cheap does not last necessitating multiple repurchases and therefore not cheap in the long run.
I buy used as often as possible as many/most items offered used and working have had a lifetime of reliable use and if sound then will last.
Many other items can be easily repaired...though this seems not valued in our current consumerist world.
Our local thrift store sells all kitchen knives @ $2. Most weeks I can find a Henkels, Dick, Sabatier, or Wusthof that just needs a quick sharpen and clean.
Once restored I pass these on to friends (I've too many already and am 'instructed' as to the one in one out rule now) to up their game.
I repaired the neighbor boy's big Kettcar. The front chainring on which the pedals are mounted was at a slight angle and so the chain kept jumping off. I filed the slotted holes on the bracket of the bottom bracket wider so that I could compensate for the misalignment.
And the little fellow will forever be in my debt 🤣
And the little fellow will forever be in my debt 🤣
Bonus points, not divorce. She breaks it, I fix it.
Cal, not being anything close to a shoe fetischist, though I regard any heel below 5" to be flats, just have to know: what kind of shoes and if they were HEELS, have you got photos ... pleeeeze!