Thank you, I simply ran the cabling from the switched contacts of the headphone amp and connected the ground to ground and attached a 100 ohm resistor to the left and right in series so the other end of the resistor would be connected to the RCA centre pin as the left and right are positive. 150 ohm would also work as I've seen that value on some other amps.
Regards
Gaz
I took the time this evening to upgrade the wiring to some tour grade Van Damme microphone cable and took a few pics including where to put the 100 ohm resistors for the pre out in case anyone wants to do the same.
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Does anyone know how I could implement a bass boost fairly easily. Like flicking a switch just to add a little more bass or is that limited to changing opamps?
I have a whammy with Toshiba and another with Fairchild (and I've built one with IRF...) and there's no difference in bass.
It's (the whammy) a very neutral design that doesn't editorialize at all. Changing opamps won't make much difference either. If you want more bass, I'd honestly grab a different set of headphones, or (more fun) put a Schiit Loki in front of it and EQ to your taste.
It's (the whammy) a very neutral design that doesn't editorialize at all. Changing opamps won't make much difference either. If you want more bass, I'd honestly grab a different set of headphones, or (more fun) put a Schiit Loki in front of it and EQ to your taste.
One of them out in one minute, cleaning the holes and the new one in...
I really did it and still find that the FQP did more bass for my ears.
Ok, I once ruined a board. Good thing was, I had a few more of them and had to resolder all the rest. Except the opts I made it. Regarding the Toshibas I couldn't bring enough heat in for some legs. So they work as dwarfs in my USSA-5. Probably a more powerful solder station would have saved their legs. Still they are fine.
Or was there another trick?
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Desoldering braid (Chem-Wick et al)
Edsyn Soldapullt solder sucker
LOWMELT® desoldering wire aka Bismuth solder
Hakko FR300
Edsyn Soldapullt solder sucker
LOWMELT® desoldering wire aka Bismuth solder
Hakko FR300
I use the IRF in my build. I did find that the LM833 op amp gave a tad more bass than the OPA2134. Which reminds me, I have been reading about other op amps and wondered if anyone has tried the OPA2107 in their Whammy? This is a DiFet op amp and apparently are meant to be really good. They are quite pricey though on digykey and mouser.
I am ashamed as the boy I got the trick from....
you have to put so much solder on the three legs that they are all covered.
Then you heat the chunk with the solder iron in a nearly horizontal position fast and furious and pull the beast out from the other side.
It works fine, I lost none since doing it in this way.
you have to put so much solder on the three legs that they are all covered.
Then you heat the chunk with the solder iron in a nearly horizontal position fast and furious and pull the beast out from the other side.
It works fine, I lost none since doing it in this way.
Keyword search shows users meldrew and scranton both had favorable results with OPA2107.
BK
Yes, maybe more flux, solder and power or hot air for three legs in one. Thanks guy's!
I need a bigger iron I guess.
Anyway, on the new board old Whammy parts sounds great with new Fairchilds.
I need a bigger iron I guess.
Anyway, on the new board old Whammy parts sounds great with new Fairchilds.
I service audio equipment. Using hot air, I've had greater success removing difficult parts from double-sided boards, without tearing pads off the board, than any other method I'd used previously.