Pretty expensive option to buy two units and the dual DIP8 converter, but it will be interesting to hear how it works for you.
My blue led isnt lighting up. I'm using a 30k ohm resistor on one side.
I bought this one that was recommended to me here.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lite-On/LTL1CHTBK3LC?qs=RCaNbOIH9ndmjEq3wdwmCw==
Any ideas?
I have the cathode to R10 and the other R9
I bought this one that was recommended to me here.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lite-On/LTL1CHTBK3LC?qs=RCaNbOIH9ndmjEq3wdwmCw==
Any ideas?
I have the cathode to R10 and the other R9
I'm guessing you want a power indicator. If so, that's not where it goes. (Depending on the schematic you're referencing and the boards) those are for the voltage reference.
Remove your 30k resistor and the LED from where you have them.
I'd take it straight off the V+. There are a lot of options. Mark Johnson has posted a very nice solution if you want to be sure it dims very quickly on turn-off. Search for his name and recent posts.
Remove your 30k resistor and the LED from where you have them.
I'd take it straight off the V+. There are a lot of options. Mark Johnson has posted a very nice solution if you want to be sure it dims very quickly on turn-off. Search for his name and recent posts.
Last edited:
Thank you for the help. I'm guessing this specific LED doesn't work for R9 R10 connection. I was just following 6L6's guide on page 232.
What guide?
Are you talking about the pictures in post #4629? Page numbers differ by how many posts per page... 🙂
D5 and D6 are LEDs for a particular purpose in the circuit (depending on how you build it). I can see where you're coming from now.
I'd just run your power indicator LED off the positive rail unless you have a particular reason not to... just a matter of preference.
Are you talking about the pictures in post #4629? Page numbers differ by how many posts per page... 🙂
D5 and D6 are LEDs for a particular purpose in the circuit (depending on how you build it). I can see where you're coming from now.
I'd just run your power indicator LED off the positive rail unless you have a particular reason not to... just a matter of preference.
Some discussion moved here - https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...adphone-buffer-for-ba3-fe-no-feedback.399945/Hello I bought this power module for my Whammy and it's fully built. Worked for a couple of days but the fuse keeps blowing out.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/693-DD12.9111.1111
I used 10A rated fast blow fuse. Am I using too high a rating? What should I use?
Also using Talema transformer
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/693-DD12.9111.1111
I used 10A rated fast blow fuse. Am I using too high a rating? What should I use?
Also using Talema transformer
Last edited:
If you're blowing 10A fuses, you have a problem. Stop. Don't replace them and keep blowing them. Post pics and describe what you're experiencing. If it worked for a few days... something (hopefully small) changed.
Much, much, much, much less than 10A. It will depend a bit on how you build it. I'm not sure what comes with the kits.
xformer VA/ mains V, then first close slow-blow standard value
or just use nail, but keep phone close
or just use nail, but keep phone close
I like that enclosure more than the one in whammy complete kit. The 7815 and 7915 in the original get very hot when the unit is enclosed. This is due to voltage drop across them 26v-15v. Also I believe the PCB mounted heat sink plates are inadequate without forced air in the enclosure or a change in topology to improve convection cooling. I should mention that the headphone sound is enjoyable.
The linear regulators would run cooler if the VCC, VEE were raised to about 20vdc but the opamp would need it's own supply.
