Nicely done, RankStranger! Good job on getting to the final stage, and good job getting the bugs worked out. Many of us go through the "it's running but not like it should be" stage, so don't worry about it. With each new build will come new skills. Enjoy the ride!
Dear fellow builders, I need some advice to finish my build of Wayne's Linestage Preamp. It's only my third build (after ACA and ACP+) and I'm quite frankly blown away by this one. I really like the premium ACA and Wayne combination a lot! I have just not found a source for a input selector PCB in Europe yet and I also don't have a clue how to assemble and implement it into the build. Can anyone help me with this? Also I would love to have a headphone output on the Wayne and I saw that this is possible. How can I achieve this? Thanks a lot for your help!
Greetings from freezing cold Vienna
PS: a friend sold me his Mark Johnson VRDN and I have made a seperate LPS from it with XLR connectors so i can swap out my preamps as you can see down below
Greetings from freezing cold Vienna
PS: a friend sold me his Mark Johnson VRDN and I have made a seperate LPS from it with XLR connectors so i can swap out my preamps
as you can see down below
This would be a possibility: https://www.don-audio.com/Elma-Uni-Selector-Switch_1 Great gear, should cover your needs.
Basically it's RCA-in — input-selector — attenuator — line stage — HP-out — RCA-out
(either a shorting Jack (plug in the headphone and the output is off) or both outputs parallel?)
I recommend to wait for the good guys to chime in, or search for inspiration, for this.
Basically it's RCA-in — input-selector — attenuator — line stage — HP-out — RCA-out
(either a shorting Jack (plug in the headphone and the output is off) or both outputs parallel?)
I recommend to wait for the good guys to chime in, or search for inspiration, for this.
peterpaan89, I'll agree with myleftear: the Elma would be a really nice selector switch. You'll wire your inputs directly to the switch as there is no PCB to deal with. Just keep the bundle of input wires twisted together on their way to the front panel and you'll be fine.
You mentioned headphone output from the Wayne. I can't quite tell from your photo but did you install the larger output transistors? You'll need those for headphone output.
PS: Weather just north of Seattle, Wa, USA today has a high temp of...just 22F. Supposedly will be 18F overnight. It's that time of year!
You mentioned headphone output from the Wayne. I can't quite tell from your photo but did you install the larger output transistors? You'll need those for headphone output.
PS: Weather just north of Seattle, Wa, USA today has a high temp of...just 22F. Supposedly will be 18F overnight. It's that time of year!
@peterpaan89 there are a few other changes with using the bigger outputs. Just wanted to be sure you realized that.
That Neutrik is very nice. You'll need to decide if you want the outputs to turn off when you plug in the headphones. If so then the Neutrik jack you mentioned is not going to work. That one in particular is a locking jack but apparently not a "switching" or "shorting" jack. (had to look that one up!) But if you still want the quality of that jack (and why not!) then just wire it in parallel and turn off your amplifiers while you have your headphones on. (This is what myleftear likely meant when he said, "(either a shorting Jack (plug in the headphone and the output is off) or both outputs parallel.)"
There are other Neutrik parts that actually will give you a switched jack (like the NCJ series or the NMJ series.) Must of the Neutrik jacks have some type of silver plating on the contacts but the contact material itself changes depending on the model. It's more important to get the part that suits your build.
There are other Neutrik parts that actually will give you a switched jack (like the NCJ series or the NMJ series.) Must of the Neutrik jacks have some type of silver plating on the contacts but the contact material itself changes depending on the model. It's more important to get the part that suits your build.
Hello Peter,
you will have to change to bigger output - BJTs:
Q8: change to TOSHIBA TTC004B (or KSC2690; difficult to get)
Q18: change to TOSHIBA TTA004B (or KSA1220; difficult to get)
I prefer TOSHIBA TTA004B / TTC004B. Watch out for correct orientation on the pcb!
You will have to change:
R11 and R12: change to 15 Ohm (0.4 W or higher)
C1: 5pF
R23 and C4: out /disconnect from circuit
Cheers
Dirk
you will have to change to bigger output - BJTs:
Q8: change to TOSHIBA TTC004B (or KSC2690; difficult to get)
Q18: change to TOSHIBA TTA004B (or KSA1220; difficult to get)
I prefer TOSHIBA TTA004B / TTC004B. Watch out for correct orientation on the pcb!
You will have to change:
R11 and R12: change to 15 Ohm (0.4 W or higher)
C1: 5pF
R23 and C4: out /disconnect from circuit
Cheers
Dirk
Okay thanks a lot so far to you all, this is very helpful. So I guess I need to order some stuff first before I can do the headphone output. Concerning the input selection, I already have this Alps 3 way switch. Do I even need the Elma then? I assumed it was only a switch and I needed a PCB for it.
Ok I see mine has only one channel. Does this one work? And if so, is it of considerably lesser quality then the one you recommended?
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/elec...ns-stereo-selector-notched-shaft-p-15495.html
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/elec...ns-stereo-selector-notched-shaft-p-15495.html
Well, we males are often broken... no question...
You have it reversed - A shorting switch is a make before break.
Which one are you telling our friend to get and why?
