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For those wanting to try the same value cap but a different mfg other than Panasonic, here is the Nichicon and Panasonic data sheets to compare.
The Panasonics are a few bucks cheaper. But one has to wonder, the specs are exact from what I can see, im thinking Panasonic might be private labeling this cap for Nichicon...
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/293/2012fpcap_catalog_nu-5085.pdf
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/315/SEPF_OS-262370.pdf
For those wanting to try the same value cap but a different mfg other than Panasonic, here is the Nichicon and Panasonic data sheets to compare.
The Panasonics are a few bucks cheaper. But one has to wonder, the specs are exact from what I can see, im thinking Panasonic might be private labeling this cap for Nichicon...
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/293/2012fpcap_catalog_nu-5085.pdf
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/315/SEPF_OS-262370.pdf
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Datasheet tell you the Oscon is a little bigger, but in real life the Nichicon is a little bigger then the Oscon 🙂
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Interesting, in the pic the Oscon looks fatter.
Let us know which one sound better, probably only a bat can tell the difference between the two 😛
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Lenght is most visable size difference, diameter Oscon also is a little less, but closer or further from camera does have impact on photo 🙂 Oscons rest on metal can on PCB, on Sure3116 that is on + and - soldercontacts for SMD, so plastik can-wrap becomes isolator, possible trouble there.
Panasonic oscon power caps
Bootstrap caps TDK
Jantzen 4.7uF input caps
WIMA 4.7uF input caps on negative input
Bourns 2100 series inductors 10uH
All pretty much taken from the wiki and found at mouser except for the input caps.
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Can you elaborate on what you mean?
Are you suggesting that the exterior can of the OSCON caps are conductive?
I just put my DMM probes on the can, at the highest resistance sensitivity. Though the OSCON cans look like metal, they are not conductive.
I also checked:
- Two probes on the can
- One probe on can, one on + cap lead
- One probe on can, one on - cap lead
In all cases, I get infinite resistance.
My modded Audiobah board.
Lundahl input transformer (in my DAC) and removed input caps, oscon power supply caps, bootstrap cap/resistors out and output inductor mod.
BTW, I am feeding it 12VDC from an Astron power supply, which is why I can get away with 16VDC oscons.
Sounds very nice now 🙂
Lundahl input transformer (in my DAC) and removed input caps, oscon power supply caps, bootstrap cap/resistors out and output inductor mod.
BTW, I am feeding it 12VDC from an Astron power supply, which is why I can get away with 16VDC oscons.
Sounds very nice now 🙂
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Matt - The cans are aluminum with a microscopic layer of plastic on them. i scraped off a small spot, and they are conductive. All 8 of mine were pressed tightly against the SMD pads on my TPA3110 Sure board. The thin layer of insulation bothered me more than I want to live with, so I melted the solder on each lead (16) just enough to lift the can off the pads slightly. I then dabbed hot glue on each pad under the cap. Problem solved 🙂
This may never present an issue, but everyone should be aware that the Panasonic Oscons could possibly pose a problem 🙁
Is that unique to the OSCONs though? I would assume (just guessing here) that most electrolytic caps are built this way?
The can is conductive, like many electrolytic can, but like many can it has a plastic wrap/foil, like any datasheet mentions this is not for isolation.
It is crimped on by heat... warnings in datasheet/application notes say you should use isolation or leave room or mount them differently (indeed other side of pcb is an option).
3 times more expensive Nichicons stand on rubber, United Chemicon i didn't post pics from also have rubber base sticking out a tiny bit further then edge of can, check pics I posted earlier. Rhings hum with sure3116 could be Oscon's
So I am preparing for DUGs PBTL boards and I ordered a pair of PSU boards from john broskie at tubecad.com. these are regulated lv supplies and well filtered...dead quiet. I will be ready for "dual mono" when they arrive.
I got a toroid xformer from antek...200va 20v dual secondaries. Since it gets fed raw 28v at 4A after regulation I get exactly 24V after diode/regulator losses. Plus the TPA doesn't draw that much current.
I ran one of the supplies to my hotrodded blue boards and I must say it continues to impress the hell out of me. It thumps like a class ab but sounds like a SE tube amp...TI really worked some magic on this chip.
LM317? What speakers do you use?
The regulator is an ld1085 and speakers are very similar to zaph audio sr71...2way bookshelf but with Dayton woofers and hivi tweeters. Probably 90db efficient.
For 8 ohm it could work. I am interested in linear, but I really need much more power. 12A peak(10A continues) 14V is sufficient for 1 channel, for 2 channels bass gets weaker, Revc or better measured resistance speaker with multimeter is 1.0 ohm, DUG's work brilliantly, other pbtl3116's function without problem too, a stereo3116 per channel, biamping, works if volumepot isn't maxed.