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The SLB (Smooth Like Butter) Active Rect/CRC/Cap Mx Class A Power Supply GB

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#908
Is there a GB going on for this:
754700d1557114588-slb-smooth-butter-active-rect-crc-cap-mx-class-power-supply-gb-slb-v2-pcb-top-view-png
 
#915
Probably not as it may cause too high of a ripple current. We would have to run a simulation and see if ripple current is exceeded for the cap. The 15,000uF cap we spec’d was chosen based on 5A draw and staying within ripple current rating. Exceeding it causes heating and shorter cap lifetime.
 
#917
This board is a bitch to solder/de-solder. Got the cap out of position C23 just, can't get the solder out of the eyelet (tried all my usual tricks). Board is already showing some battle scares. I need a drill bit about the width of a human hair to just drill the solder out. Any suggestions?

IMG_3435.jpg
 
#919
Mark Johnson said:
I use tool #1 which costs USD 5.00, and I also use tool #2 which costs USD 250.00

Oh and "Prowick" brand desoldering braid made by Techspray, in lots of different widths.
Click to expand...

I'll try tool #1. I have a desoldering station but it isn't helpful. I can't even get the solder to melt in order to suck it up...the heat is just wicked away by the plane that runs through most of the board. I've tried extreme temperatures (max of my iron 850˚F) and solder sucker. I've tried to "flood" the hole and then suck up the solder. Obviously nothing has worked. What would normally take about two minutes I've invested about 30 into...so far.
 
#920
That’s one of the downfalls of 2mm thick board and 2oz copper planes. Usually I am able to remove the solder by preheating the spot with a jet of hot air from my SMT hot air pencil. Usually 45 seconds of preheat. Then use a wide chisel tip soldering iron to apply the final heat followed by a plunger type solder sucker. If that solder goes liquidus it has to come out under suction.

High quality copper braid like NTE brand with liquid flux dripped onto the wick and the fat chisel tip iron will also usually pull stubborn solder up. I would not drill it. You will break your drill as those only require the slightest lateral pressure to break.

You are working it from the exposed back side I assume? The SMT hot air pencil with large dia tip set to 300C should melt that no problem in a minute.
 
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