@6L6
Thank you so much!.
I've experienced this inverted phase for about a year.
I did not even know the words 'inverted phase'.
I thought it comes from the own characteristics of the raw output of R2R DAC.
BTW, I wrote reviews of all daughter board in 'inverted phase'.
I am so sorry to all of you about it.
Thank you so much!.
I've experienced this inverted phase for about a year.
I did not even know the words 'inverted phase'.
I thought it comes from the own characteristics of the raw output of R2R DAC.
BTW, I wrote reviews of all daughter board in 'inverted phase'.
I am so sorry to all of you about it.
We will flip all your reviews by 180 deg, it will be fine. 😎
Hi,
is it possible to double the output complementary power Mosfet to drive speakers with complex load ?
I already got a BA3 but want to try M2x...
Damien
is it possible to double the output complementary power Mosfet to drive speakers with complex load ?
I already got a BA3 but want to try M2x...
Damien
I'm looking to build out the Norwood, and as has been discussed here, U5, HA9P5002 (and variant 9Z) is unobtanium until next year.
Anyone have an excess pair they'd be willing to part with? You don't get if you don't ask.
Alternatively, I assume I'd have to find a part with matching characteristics as well as a matching pin-out, or try my hand at my first board layout. Which would be good for me to grow and could help others. Someone earlier mentioned the TI(?) BUF634A. Mouser: 595-BUF634AIDR
The Norwood would be three firsts for me: SMD, op-amps, possibly a board layout.
Anyone have an excess pair they'd be willing to part with? You don't get if you don't ask.
Alternatively, I assume I'd have to find a part with matching characteristics as well as a matching pin-out, or try my hand at my first board layout. Which would be good for me to grow and could help others. Someone earlier mentioned the TI(?) BUF634A. Mouser: 595-BUF634AIDR
The Norwood would be three firsts for me: SMD, op-amps, possibly a board layout.
@Toadroller
I've purchased HA9P5002 from this seller and built Norwood successfully.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/372145503180
I've purchased HA9P5002 from this seller and built Norwood successfully.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/372145503180
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Thank you!
In other news, I spent a couple of hours remembering my LT Spice basics and learning how to import a .lib, so I may take on the challenge of Buf634A-ing the Norwood there and then moving it to an EDA tool. It's enough of a challenge that I'll grow from it.
In other news, I spent a couple of hours remembering my LT Spice basics and learning how to import a .lib, so I may take on the challenge of Buf634A-ing the Norwood there and then moving it to an EDA tool. It's enough of a challenge that I'll grow from it.
The one piece of Norwood PCB layout that got maximum attention from me, was the placement of the supply bypass capacitors. Each IC was allocated two bypass caps, one to the immediate left (pin1-pin8 end of pkg) and one to the immediate right (pin4-pin5 end of pkg) of the chip on the PCB. Have a look at your Norwood boards that shipped with your M2x PCB collection. Notice how close C1 and C2 are to the AD744. Notice how close C3 and C5 are to the high bandwidth, high current, unity gain buffer IC. That was deliberate. That was the goal. That was intentional.
I can't speak for anyone else but, if I were to re-layout the Norwood circuit myself, I'd do the exact same thing with the bypass caps. Of course I may be severely misguided and embarrassingly disturbed. You make your own decisions and reap the benefits of your choices.
_
I can't speak for anyone else but, if I were to re-layout the Norwood circuit myself, I'd do the exact same thing with the bypass caps. Of course I may be severely misguided and embarrassingly disturbed. You make your own decisions and reap the benefits of your choices.
_
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The care you put into the various input stage layouts is obvious (case in point: offering both socket and SMD on the Tuscon), and the advice here about the bypass caps is appreciated.
Right now I'm learning to ride a tricycle with training wheels, so when the time comes, hopefully I'll apply the wisdom.
Quick question:
Tuscon daughter board, R1 (6.2k):
Well, I missed this on my order. My personal inventory has a 6.04 and a 6.8k. Close enough? I could also parallel other resistors I'm sure.
And my not-quite-there-yet circuit diagnosis skills wonder at the purpose of the R1 C2 C3 portion of the circuit. My guess is the capacitors for further smoothing/cleansing of VCC rail and R1 would keep the current of that filtering low. Am I even close?
In related news, I successfully (if my macro-macro phone camera's telling me the truth) drag-soldered my first SMD in U6 OPA1611. Not so bad. Had a practice SMD soldering kit I practiced on a lot first to get the hang of it.
Tuscon daughter board, R1 (6.2k):
Well, I missed this on my order. My personal inventory has a 6.04 and a 6.8k. Close enough? I could also parallel other resistors I'm sure.
And my not-quite-there-yet circuit diagnosis skills wonder at the purpose of the R1 C2 C3 portion of the circuit. My guess is the capacitors for further smoothing/cleansing of VCC rail and R1 would keep the current of that filtering low. Am I even close?
In related news, I successfully (if my macro-macro phone camera's telling me the truth) drag-soldered my first SMD in U6 OPA1611. Not so bad. Had a practice SMD soldering kit I practiced on a lot first to get the hang of it.
The R1 resistor is there to ensure that D1 and D2 are fully turned on. It helps provide a stable voltage at the opamp supply pins.
Each diode drops 10V, so if the supply rails are 23V, there will be 26V across R1. Calculate the diode current from there. The quiescent current through the opamp should be small compared to this.
Each diode drops 10V, so if the supply rails are 23V, there will be 26V across R1. Calculate the diode current from there. The quiescent current through the opamp should be small compared to this.
Thank you. I had to read it twice and give it a think, but am I getting it from the below?
Assumed VCC of 23V - 10V from the zener = 13VCC remaining
And VEE of 23 - 10 from zener D2 = 13VEE remaining
R1 straddling the VCC + VEE 26v / 6.2k = ~ 4.19mA? at pin 7 and 4
So a 6.8k R1, 26/6.8k = ~3.82 mA
or a 6.04k R1, 26/6.04k = ~4.30mA
Would I look to the Opamp's specs to see if these Iqs would be in an operating range?
Assumed VCC of 23V - 10V from the zener = 13VCC remaining
And VEE of 23 - 10 from zener D2 = 13VEE remaining
R1 straddling the VCC + VEE 26v / 6.2k = ~ 4.19mA? at pin 7 and 4
So a 6.8k R1, 26/6.8k = ~3.82 mA
or a 6.04k R1, 26/6.04k = ~4.30mA
Would I look to the Opamp's specs to see if these Iqs would be in an operating range?
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Looking at the product spec sheet (OPA161X), it has a 3.6 mA Iq:
Would the 3.8mA iQ predicted assuming a 23V Rail be cutting it close?
Would the 3.8mA iQ predicted assuming a 23V Rail be cutting it close?
I would probably opt for 6.04k for R1.
The job of C2 and C3 is to absorb current variations, and provide a steady voltage for the opamp.
The OPA1611 should be a good one. I tried the OPA604 in my Tuscon and didn't care for the sound. I have been intending to try others in its place, but am always busy with the next thing in other amps
The job of C2 and C3 is to absorb current variations, and provide a steady voltage for the opamp.
The OPA1611 should be a good one. I tried the OPA604 in my Tuscon and didn't care for the sound. I have been intending to try others in its place, but am always busy with the next thing in other amps
Success last night. Which means my drag-soldering skill is sufficient. Huzzah!
Thank you @TungstenAudio for the educational guidance. I understand more now.
What a musical, musical amp the M2X is! You can just get lost in the music. Initial impressions Tuscon.Opa1611aidr:
Tuscon stays in the amp in the main rig for a week or two, and when my Norwood Opamps show up, more fun.
The opinions expressed here are not endorsed by your brother, your mileage may vary, past performance is not a guarantee of future performance, yada, yada.
Thank you @TungstenAudio for the educational guidance. I understand more now.
What a musical, musical amp the M2X is! You can just get lost in the music. Initial impressions Tuscon.Opa1611aidr:
- Immediately different from the Ishikawa front end. I've been playing "while my guitar gently weeps" from the Beatles/Cirque de Soleil "Love" cd and, well, George made me weep as the song went on.
- You could hear the amp warm up very distinctly over 45 minutes. Started good and got better of course.
- Big. Everything large, maybe even crowding each other out.
- Horns? So much articulation of what the saxophonist, trumpeter, etc. were doing, when they were breathing not based on hearing intake of breath per se, but on when and how they blew.
- Details without being edgy.
- Enough bass, but certainly not dominating and slamming
- It much preferred live acoustic, real instruments (i.e. jazz) to recorded, compressed, and produced pop music
- More 2d than 3d. Not as much space around vocals as I'm used to
Tuscon stays in the amp in the main rig for a week or two, and when my Norwood Opamps show up, more fun.
The opinions expressed here are not endorsed by your brother, your mileage may vary, past performance is not a guarantee of future performance, yada, yada.
I want to write this again about Ishikawa, Austin, Tucson, Norwood and IPS7.
Ishikawa -
precisely controlled sound and soundstage.
It has very strong tis own character.
not excessive at any volume level.
especially good at loud volume.
Austin -
clean, clear and tight sound,
mid high focused. great HF, so so bright,
some sharp and fatiguing
Tucson - with OPA1611
natural, well balanced, good depth separation,
detail is good too,
It shows something like the standard of all aspects of sound.
I love OPA1611.
Norweed -
BEST DETAIL !!
best seperation and 3d imaging.
It make so real sound and stage.
just a little bit bright.
It’s almost perfect.
IPS7 - with LT1121
They say that LT1121 opamp sounds so good. Detail and HF.
Yes it is,
But some bright, some excessive, some fatiguing.
IPS7 - with LM49720
natural voice presentation, well balanced, good bass,
My preferences :
IPS6 > Norwood > IPS8 Cedarburg > Tucson with OPA1611 > IPS7 with LM49720 > Mountain View > Ishikawa > IPS7 with LT1121 > Austin
I need a little help with orientation of the HA 5002 on the board.
I can't tell which side of the actual chip is notched.
Which orientation (as pictured) would work with the board as pictured? Stencil on package right side up or upside down?
Thanks!
I can't tell which side of the actual chip is notched.
Which orientation (as pictured) would work with the board as pictured? Stencil on package right side up or upside down?
Thanks!
As best I can tell from the manufacturer's spec sheet:
The beveled edge from the side view above is this side when looking at it visually, but boy is it close when looking at the devices physically, even from the side. The orientation below would also support the theory that the "i" in front of 5002 is the "dot":
The beveled edge from the side view above is this side when looking at it visually, but boy is it close when looking at the devices physically, even from the side. The orientation below would also support the theory that the "i" in front of 5002 is the "dot":
A picture taken from the perspective of side view B would help confirm. However, at first glance, your labeling looks correct. I don't have any on hand to review in person.
Man, it’s close. Even with the iPhone camera, which is almost an electron microscope in its own right.
But what looks like a slanted edge matches up with the spec sheet
But what looks like a slanted edge matches up with the spec sheet
From that view, it seems more clear to me...
Left unit - bevel on the right side.
Right unit - bevel on the left side.
When in doubt... beep it out. See the schematic in the spec sheet and run a few checks to confirm.
Left unit - bevel on the right side.
Right unit - bevel on the left side.
When in doubt... beep it out. See the schematic in the spec sheet and run a few checks to confirm.