Zen, can you explain this logic before I mistakenly move forward with moving my PS into an outboard enclosure myself?
I built two power supplies for my first build planning for a dual mono build but then after hearing how good my F5 sounded with one, I didn’t install the second. Now that I’ve been listening for many months I’m curious.
What changes when a dual mono PS is moved from inside the enclosure of the amp boards to an outboard enclosure set nearby (beside the longer wires)?
I built two power supplies for my first build planning for a dual mono build but then after hearing how good my F5 sounded with one, I didn’t install the second. Now that I’ve been listening for many months I’m curious.
What changes when a dual mono PS is moved from inside the enclosure of the amp boards to an outboard enclosure set nearby (beside the longer wires)?
take it as CRC
first C is with rectifier , in PSU case
then umbilical is R
then final C is in amp case
logic of things is that power reserve is near channel pcbs, or else there is no benefit if you have it remote, introducing another R in between last C cell and channel pcbs (unnecessary length of wire)
motor runs are , as I said , cherry on top, but they're minuscule power reserve; you need mF for that, not uF
again, simple logic
same as is - whichever voltage regulator you're using for low level stages, it is always best to have it either incorporated on same pcb with active stage, or nearest possible (in case of separate reg pcbs)
for best results, power traces always need to be shortest possible
first C is with rectifier , in PSU case
then umbilical is R
then final C is in amp case
logic of things is that power reserve is near channel pcbs, or else there is no benefit if you have it remote, introducing another R in between last C cell and channel pcbs (unnecessary length of wire)
motor runs are , as I said , cherry on top, but they're minuscule power reserve; you need mF for that, not uF
again, simple logic
same as is - whichever voltage regulator you're using for low level stages, it is always best to have it either incorporated on same pcb with active stage, or nearest possible (in case of separate reg pcbs)
for best results, power traces always need to be shortest possible
// Just because it will be for a M2X //
Can not get OPA604 anywhere at the moment, looked for alternative without being so sure, thought TL071 might be worth a try as a stop gap and this, from the Ship of Theseus thread, is helping i guess https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ngeable-amplifier-modules.383745/post-7108786
If not appropriate, please tell me.
Can not get OPA604 anywhere at the moment, looked for alternative without being so sure, thought TL071 might be worth a try as a stop gap and this, from the Ship of Theseus thread, is helping i guess https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ngeable-amplifier-modules.383745/post-7108786
Though it might help others at some point, hence put it thereIf you're worried about your unproven Nimitz destroying your precious Norwood daughterboards, stuff and solder your Tucson boards and use dirt cheap opamps (I suggest TL071 which is plentiful and costs less than $1). Give Nimitz a chance to wreck your Tucson boards -- they are expendable. If it doesn't, leave Tucson in the amplifier for a week or two just in case trouble manifests itself gradually. Finally when you've got plenty of confidence in Nimitz, swap Tucson out and swap Norwood in. Done.
If not appropriate, please tell me.
”Start conversation“Actually, I would like that set for myself - how do I send you a PM?
Hello Vunce,
It'll be interesting to see how this works with that SMPS from the Micro Audio guys - It was increased to +/-27V @ 3A (and does that easily) and will drop this to about the +/- 23v via the Salas L-Adapter reg - this'll be rather interesting, especially with an extra couple of those motor run caps as described above....
It'll be interesting to see how this works with that SMPS from the Micro Audio guys - It was increased to +/-27V @ 3A (and does that easily) and will drop this to about the +/- 23v via the Salas L-Adapter reg - this'll be rather interesting, especially with an extra couple of those motor run caps as described above....
I am building an M2X slowly as work will allow. My plan is to use an external power supply to avoid noise and also to be able to experiment with linear and SMPS supplies.
In the meanwhile, I've got a Power-One (now Bel Power Solutions) HCC24-2.4-AG on the shelf. Is there any reason that this regulated power supply and a capacitor bank would not work well for this project?
Datasheet
In the meanwhile, I've got a Power-One (now Bel Power Solutions) HCC24-2.4-AG on the shelf. Is there any reason that this regulated power supply and a capacitor bank would not work well for this project?
Datasheet
It looks like the secondary market for the HA9P5002 has been drying up. Is something like the BUF634A an OK substitute knowing that the pin connections between the two parts are very different? It has a fairly high slew rate and BW and and it can push 250 mA.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/BUF634AIDR/10314202
Thanks,
Mike
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/BUF634AIDR/10314202
Thanks,
Mike
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