Absolutely! Please feel free to redesign Norwood using different ICs such as possibly the BUF634A. That's part of the fun of the DIY hobby after all. Be sure to read section 9.1.1 of BUF634A's datasheet when sizing the resistor in series with its input pin.
Somewhere in the first ~100 posts of this M2x thread, there's a mechanical diagram of daughter card PCB size and mounting hole positioning. The Yarra project successfully created their own M2x compatible input cards, so it's known to be possible. Not all that difficult, in fact.
Somewhere in the first ~100 posts of this M2x thread, there's a mechanical diagram of daughter card PCB size and mounting hole positioning. The Yarra project successfully created their own M2x compatible input cards, so it's known to be possible. Not all that difficult, in fact.
It's been a week since completing my M2x/Ishikawa with external power. It's being driven by a B1K. When Papa wrote "The simplicity and performance of the circuit allows a unique sonic experience that is likely to make you go through your entire record collection all over again.", he wasn't kidding! This is the most enjoyable combination I've ever had. Thanks Papa! Thanks, also, to everyone who helped - and who's recommendations I have yet to explore.
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Hello,
Has anyone used the Jims's Audio PSU boards for the M2. I do have a choice between SLB, DIY Universal or Jims. I have all on hand as well as 22,000uf caps. It seems a shame to waste the rectifier portion of the Universal boards as I planning to snap them off. It would seem to be the same thing although it looks like there's a difference in the way they ground. The Jims and Universal that is. I have the stuff and plans to do a Honey Badger and was thinking the SLBs might be good for that. Given I am a lightweight on knowledge I'd appreciate the input. I am trying to learn but largely painting by numbers right now. It worked for my F6...so.
Thank you
Has anyone used the Jims's Audio PSU boards for the M2. I do have a choice between SLB, DIY Universal or Jims. I have all on hand as well as 22,000uf caps. It seems a shame to waste the rectifier portion of the Universal boards as I planning to snap them off. It would seem to be the same thing although it looks like there's a difference in the way they ground. The Jims and Universal that is. I have the stuff and plans to do a Honey Badger and was thinking the SLBs might be good for that. Given I am a lightweight on knowledge I'd appreciate the input. I am trying to learn but largely painting by numbers right now. It worked for my F6...so.
Thank you
I was debating putting some glowing bottles in front of my F4 in pursuit of change for the sake of change....then remembered this thread.
Then read it.
Then noted that, like many here, I have hoarding tendencies...and already have many of the hard to get parts to build one of these.
Transformers and boards have already been ordered. The hoard grows. I will, unfortunately, have to disembody my F4 to do this. But it reads like a worthwhile cause as building one of these will be cheaper and easier than anything I had in mind previously.
I have a nice stack of 1530/201 transistors purchased from NicMac years ago for another project that never materialzed.
NN-PP matches, as opposed to NNPP matches, would be sufficient here, right?
Then read it.
Then noted that, like many here, I have hoarding tendencies...and already have many of the hard to get parts to build one of these.
Transformers and boards have already been ordered. The hoard grows. I will, unfortunately, have to disembody my F4 to do this. But it reads like a worthwhile cause as building one of these will be cheaper and easier than anything I had in mind previously.
I have a nice stack of 1530/201 transistors purchased from NicMac years ago for another project that never materialzed.
NN-PP matches, as opposed to NNPP matches, would be sufficient here, right?
This is what I have:
From NicMac: "These have been sorted using degeneration resistors as described by EUVL in the F5X thread"
Will that be relevant here?
2SK1530 | 2SJ201 | ||||||
ID | Vgs (V) | Yfs (S) | ID | Vgs (V) | Yfs (S) | ||
423 | 237 | 2.38 | 4.36 | 437 | 230 | 2.12 | 4.54 |
241 | 2.38 | 4.28 | 557 | 2.12 | 4.54 | ||
309 | 2.38 | 4.34 | 212 | 2.13 | 4.58 | ||
316 | 2.38 | 4.34 | 308 | 2.12 | 4.60 | ||
424 | 340 | 2.38 | 4.47 | 438 | 265 | 2.13 | 4.70 |
376 | 2.39 | 4.47 | 448 | 2.13 | 4.70 | ||
172 | 2.39 | 4.44 | 414 | 2.13 | 4.73 | ||
298 | 2.38 | 4.45 | 431 | 2.13 | 4.75 |
From NicMac: "These have been sorted using degeneration resistors as described by EUVL in the F5X thread"
Will that be relevant here?
I use the SLB in my M2x mono blocks. I love the sound the Amp produces. This is subjective, not a circuit analysis.Hello,
Has anyone used the Jims's Audio PSU boards for the M2. I do have a choice between SLB, DIY Universal or Jims. I have all on hand as well as 22,000uf caps. It seems a shame to waste the rectifier portion of the Universal boards as I planning to snap them off. It would seem to be the same thing although it looks like there's a difference in the way they ground. The Jims and Universal that is. I have the stuff and plans to do a Honey Badger and was thinking the SLBs might be good for that. Given I am a lightweight on knowledge I'd appreciate the input. I am trying to learn but largely painting by numbers right now. It worked for my F6...so.
Thank you
Don
Thankfully, I put so much more stock in a subjectivist view. That's the point.I use the SLB in my M2x mono blocks. I love the sound the Amp produces. This is subjective, not a circuit analysis.
Don
Hi,
it's not strictly for the M2x, but do somebody have a circuit diagram for the "classic Pass metering"?
Is it a direct current measurement or a voltage drop measurement of a resistor? What would be the best solution?
Any help will be much appreciated 👍
it's not strictly for the M2x, but do somebody have a circuit diagram for the "classic Pass metering"?
Is it a direct current measurement or a voltage drop measurement of a resistor? What would be the best solution?
Any help will be much appreciated 👍
easy as ......... well, didn't I already drew something as that in few recent months?
instrument GND ditto to negative voltage end of power resistor
from positive voltage end of same resistor goes series trimpot to positive end of instrument
put 10uF elko directly parallel to instrument
if you say which amp, then data for instrument - Rdc and current for full tilt, I can say which trimpot value and where exactly in schm to chip in
instrument GND ditto to negative voltage end of power resistor
from positive voltage end of same resistor goes series trimpot to positive end of instrument
put 10uF elko directly parallel to instrument
if you say which amp, then data for instrument - Rdc and current for full tilt, I can say which trimpot value and where exactly in schm to chip in
Thank you! The amps will be the M2x, the Scryer, the M25.2 and the XA252easy as ......... well, didn't I already drew something as that in few recent months?
instrument GND ditto to negative voltage end of power resistor
from positive voltage end of same resistor goes series trimpot to positive end of instrument
put 10uF elko directly parallel to instrument
if you say which amp, then data for instrument - Rdc and current for full tilt, I can say which trimpot value and where exactly in schm to chip in

humm I'm thinking something for AcaMini ...as bios setting is crudeThank you! The amps will be the M2x, the Scryer, the M25.2 and the XA252... but I think the XA and the M2x will get the needle meter. I will come back to it as soon as I have the instruments.
difficult is need to be a mini 300mv tester suggestion ?

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Hi,
I've searched the forum, but found a wide variety of information, so I'd rather ask: what value should the mains fuse have? If I saw correctly, then definitely must be slow. I found Pass PSU circuits for mono amps, they had 1.25A mains fuse. Does it mean it should be 2,5 A for a stereo amp? I saw in this thread values up to 4 A. Further, is there a need for rails fuses?
Many thanks in advance.
I've searched the forum, but found a wide variety of information, so I'd rather ask: what value should the mains fuse have? If I saw correctly, then definitely must be slow. I found Pass PSU circuits for mono amps, they had 1.25A mains fuse. Does it mean it should be 2,5 A for a stereo amp? I saw in this thread values up to 4 A. Further, is there a need for rails fuses?
Many thanks in advance.
Transformer VA rating divided by mains voltage. Pick closest stock value (I think?? 🙂) . Some sort of speaker DC protection is probably wise in case of catastrophe.
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