Good day, Plott
Here’s what I could offer:
On semi FQP3P20 / FQP3N30…
How many would you need?
(In exchange, I would be very grateful for a d esscription / illustration of how to set up a matching jig… the various schematics, as simple as they are, do invoke a vogel-strauss-effekt (ostrich’s-reflex))
You can try the setup in Fig 12 here: https://firstwatt.com/pdf/art_matching.pdf
With R1=220R, you get about 50mA.
Note that matching is not a requirement since you aren't running the mosfets in
parallel. That said, a simple Vgs measurement ensures the parts are operational
and you might pick pairs to use in the two channels.
With R1=220R, you get about 50mA.
Note that matching is not a requirement since you aren't running the mosfets in
parallel. That said, a simple Vgs measurement ensures the parts are operational
and you might pick pairs to use in the two channels.
Also, you can use Datasheets, Electronic Parts, Components, Search - Octopart to search for parts.
Thanks Dennis!
Lazy as I am, I was hoping for a pic to copy. Schematics… kinda scare me. Yes I see it is dead-simple
And I took on these to match for doing my first step into these realms, knowing that it’s not crucial (not even important)…
Good evening @myleftear,
thanks for checking - I would need 2 pairs for the stereo gain stage
Sadly, I can't give you any description for a matching jig, however I've found some threads here at diyaudio: Jfet matching jig JFET matching Jig Another Idss measurement jig
Hope it helps
Dirk, thanks
thanks for checking - I would need 2 pairs for the stereo gain stage
Sadly, I can't give you any description for a matching jig, however I've found some threads here at diyaudio: Jfet matching jig JFET matching Jig Another Idss measurement jigHope it helps
Dirk, thanks
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Do I have Hot selected correctly?
I chose left as negative from in is linked to the right solder point.
Thanks
Attachments
Chiptech,
It is not positive or negative. These are AC connections, so it is hot or neutral. The incoming AC is connected to where you currently have the wires soldered in your picture. The primaries for the power transfer is wired to each of the two AC-1 and AC-2. If your power transformer only has one primary than you just need to wire it to either AC-1 or AC-2.
It is not positive or negative. These are AC connections, so it is hot or neutral. The incoming AC is connected to where you currently have the wires soldered in your picture. The primaries for the power transfer is wired to each of the two AC-1 and AC-2. If your power transformer only has one primary than you just need to wire it to either AC-1 or AC-2.
Hardest question ever to answer...
What speakers, what room, what sonic preferences, what music, how loud, what build experience, what restrictions to budget, heat, size, etc. etc. etc. Those questions will all be asked of you in order to provide any type of thoughtful answer.
Best is the one you just finished building or want to build next.
The BA-3 amplifier is extremely versatile and includes the BA-3 front-end, FWIW. You can also build an F4 (or even F4 monoblocks) to go with your BA-3 pre if you don't need further voltage gain and want to retain all of the character of the BA-3 with no 'additional' coloration. Two somewhat related ideas.
What speakers, what room, what sonic preferences, what music, how loud, what build experience, what restrictions to budget, heat, size, etc. etc. etc. Those questions will all be asked of you in order to provide any type of thoughtful answer.
Best is the one you just finished building or want to build next.
The BA-3 amplifier is extremely versatile and includes the BA-3 front-end, FWIW. You can also build an F4 (or even F4 monoblocks) to go with your BA-3 pre if you don't need further voltage gain and want to retain all of the character of the BA-3 with no 'additional' coloration. Two somewhat related ideas.
Hi Oracle,
I had a similar question short time ago and the answer was: there is no best amp - and yes, it really is the truth and the only possible answer. This is the same situation as with commercial amps.
So, best for what? Music, room, SPL, speaker, and so on. I just do it as with the commercial things... I have many of them, and now I will build many diy-amps from the store and from others here at diyAudio.
I finished my ACA(s) and I would it (them, as I use them in a bridged dual mono config) place much higher as my R..., C...... or C........ amps, without hesitation. So, the choice is yours, and the pain too 
I had a similar question short time ago and the answer was: there is no best amp - and yes, it really is the truth and the only possible answer. This is the same situation as with commercial amps.
So, best for what? Music, room, SPL, speaker, and so on. I just do it as with the commercial things... I have many of them, and now I will build many diy-amps from the store and from others here at diyAudio.
I finished my ACA(s) and I would it (them, as I use them in a bridged dual mono config) place much higher as my R..., C...... or C........ amps, without hesitation. So, the choice is yours, and the pain too
The above answers.
Since they don‘t answer anything, this:
Ba-3 or f4 ar3 kind of ideally suited the the ba-3 FE (almost like taylormade, hence the name and if I got it right, they‘re both… quite similar?
On the other hand, after kilometers of thread-reading, the M2 seems to be very very good too. (Some say it’s the best)
(But wait, a SIT with it’s elusive excusivity, woah…
And the ACA is just a little gem, and if as dual mono powerful too.)
Maybe this could help a little: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/253334-sound-various-pass-amps.html#post3864501
I have built a single ACA, a F4, sony vfet, and now an old soul. It’s just like most are telling you: keep off or stay in, everyone is very good and the best are the very last and the next. But its great going back to the first too [emoji2956]
Since they don‘t answer anything, this:
Ba-3 or f4 ar3 kind of ideally suited the the ba-3 FE (almost like taylormade, hence the name and if I got it right, they‘re both… quite similar?
On the other hand, after kilometers of thread-reading, the M2 seems to be very very good too. (Some say it’s the best)
(But wait, a SIT with it’s elusive excusivity, woah…
And the ACA is just a little gem, and if as dual mono powerful too.)
Maybe this could help a little: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/253334-sound-various-pass-amps.html#post3864501
I have built a single ACA, a F4, sony vfet, and now an old soul. It’s just like most are telling you: keep off or stay in, everyone is very good and the best are the very last and the next. But its great going back to the first too [emoji2956]
to Oracle1 #2235
Hello Oracle1,
I can't answer your question - Sorry!
I love all my amps which are Nelson Pass - designs or from Wayne Colburn...
I like their different characters...
They all play on a very high quality level!
What I can say: The BA-3 is still a great preamp with lots of gain and excellent sound (don't forget the adjustment over Pot3).
Combined with the BA-3 poweramp (BA-3- frontend and complementary outputstage) this is for me the bass-machine and very nice midrange/highs.
I have built 2 versions of the BA-3 poweramp - this has a reason
But I also like my F5T, F5, M2X, 50W-SE-Schade-amp, BA-1,...
Cheers
Dirk
p.s.: there is a danger of getting an amp-'virus'!
Hello Oracle1,
I can't answer your question - Sorry!
I love all my amps which are Nelson Pass - designs or from Wayne Colburn...
I like their different characters...
They all play on a very high quality level!
What I can say: The BA-3 is still a great preamp with lots of gain and excellent sound (don't forget the adjustment over Pot3).
Combined with the BA-3 poweramp (BA-3- frontend and complementary outputstage) this is for me the bass-machine and very nice midrange/highs.
I have built 2 versions of the BA-3 poweramp - this has a reason
But I also like my F5T, F5, M2X, 50W-SE-Schade-amp, BA-1,...
Cheers
Dirk
p.s.: there is a danger of getting an amp-'virus'!