tubenut said:
Very interesting, when finances stablise here, and I have the ariston up and running with a suitable arm and cartridge, that could be a worthwhile item to try out ...
tkwou said:
Thanks, tho I don't see how passing a 240V 50Hz current as an input to a transformer, will change it to 110V 60Hz current, I might be missing something, but stepping the voltage down with a transformer, should not in any way affect the Hz of that current ...
Sorry I was referring to those of us who have 110/60Hz power as opposed to 240/50Hz. My original Ariston motor was designed for 60Hz power. My replacement motor came off a used Linn. The Linn motor only comes with a 50Hz pulley making the Geddon power supply unusable.
tubenut said:
Got it this afternoon, just tried it, it fits ... , perfectly 😀 😀
A little on the "thin" side, but that can be worked around ... 😉
Thanks for the idea ...
Does anyone know what size "allen key" is needed to remove the armboard on the Ariston RD 11S?
I don't have any that fit 🙁
I don't have any that fit 🙁
tkwou said:
Well that explains why mine don't fit, mine are all metric ... 🙁
Will see if I can get one of those at one of the "tool" shops in town to-morrow ...
Thanks,
tkwou said:
Spot on, same on mine, bought the last one in the shop, and it works ...
😀
Thanks,
Russell
I came across this thread by accident and have enjoyed reading it.
I bought my RD11s in 1981. I played a lot with various tweaks to the sub-chassis to make it less resonant and stiffer. There is one issue which constantly bugged me though. When revolving, the platter/sub-chassis assembly would rock slightly on the springs per each rotation. This could be accounted for by the platter being slightly unbalanced. This was evident audibly when listening to piano music where there was a sustained note, the pitch of which would drift ever so slightly per revolution of the platter.
Has anyone else here noticed this or is it a fault unique to mine?
By the way, there is a massive design flaw in the layout of the turntable. The switch lies directly below the stylus. I've damaged a cartridge by catching the stylus while switching on the TT.
I've not used mine for well over a decade now. It sits gathering dust in my basement with it's RB300 arm. This thread has made me think of bring it back from retirement
I bought my RD11s in 1981. I played a lot with various tweaks to the sub-chassis to make it less resonant and stiffer. There is one issue which constantly bugged me though. When revolving, the platter/sub-chassis assembly would rock slightly on the springs per each rotation. This could be accounted for by the platter being slightly unbalanced. This was evident audibly when listening to piano music where there was a sustained note, the pitch of which would drift ever so slightly per revolution of the platter.
Has anyone else here noticed this or is it a fault unique to mine?
By the way, there is a massive design flaw in the layout of the turntable. The switch lies directly below the stylus. I've damaged a cartridge by catching the stylus while switching on the TT.
I've not used mine for well over a decade now. It sits gathering dust in my basement with it's RB300 arm. This thread has made me think of bring it back from retirement
You sholud bring it back to life...... RB300... hummmmmm...united said:
How much do you want for your turntable ?
Ricardo
Yes... by all means United go ahead and restore it.
Since i did all those mods to mine it has put to bed any ideas i had of spending a couple of thousand dollars on a new turntable.It is entirely possible to get brilliant sound out of this TT at a fraction of the cost of a new one.
I had the opportunity to do a direct comparison between my modified RD11s and a "lingo'd" Linn LP12, and while the Linn had the Ittok arm and a ClearAudio cartridge as opposed to my RB300/Audioquest MC combination, the results for me were quite gratifying.While each combination naturally sounded 'different', the RD11s still displayed all the clarity,resolution, imaging and dynamic ability of the Linn.My mate was bowled over by the improvement,despite being sceptical before we started.
IMO the three biggest improvements were the Hercules power supply,the Linn springs and the ceramic bearing disc,but i'm sure all the mods contributed in their own way to make the RD11s more 'Linn like'.
BTW i've never had the rocking platter you mention.Has your outer platter been dropped perhaps?
And yes its a shame about the location of the rocker switch.On the original RD11 it was actually in the same position as on the Linn.Dont know why they changed that, mabye just to distinguish the Rd11s from the Linn.
If you opt for the Hercules power supply you will get a soft touch switch similiar to that on the later Linns,but even better because it will also switch between 331/3 and 45RPM without having to go through that tedious process of changing the belt on the pulley.
Since i did all those mods to mine it has put to bed any ideas i had of spending a couple of thousand dollars on a new turntable.It is entirely possible to get brilliant sound out of this TT at a fraction of the cost of a new one.
I had the opportunity to do a direct comparison between my modified RD11s and a "lingo'd" Linn LP12, and while the Linn had the Ittok arm and a ClearAudio cartridge as opposed to my RB300/Audioquest MC combination, the results for me were quite gratifying.While each combination naturally sounded 'different', the RD11s still displayed all the clarity,resolution, imaging and dynamic ability of the Linn.My mate was bowled over by the improvement,despite being sceptical before we started.
IMO the three biggest improvements were the Hercules power supply,the Linn springs and the ceramic bearing disc,but i'm sure all the mods contributed in their own way to make the RD11s more 'Linn like'.
BTW i've never had the rocking platter you mention.Has your outer platter been dropped perhaps?
And yes its a shame about the location of the rocker switch.On the original RD11 it was actually in the same position as on the Linn.Dont know why they changed that, mabye just to distinguish the Rd11s from the Linn.
If you opt for the Hercules power supply you will get a soft touch switch similiar to that on the later Linns,but even better because it will also switch between 331/3 and 45RPM without having to go through that tedious process of changing the belt on the pulley.
IIRC,
If the platter is seen to rock on each rotation one possible cause might be that the deck was played for a while without the platter and plinth being level. What happened with some older decks, was that the bearing would actually wear on a specific spot and cause uneven wear. Left long enough you could actually see a wear spot in when you looked inside.
I have seen one or two older Ariston's that exhibited this problem.
Regards,
Drofo
If the platter is seen to rock on each rotation one possible cause might be that the deck was played for a while without the platter and plinth being level. What happened with some older decks, was that the bearing would actually wear on a specific spot and cause uneven wear. Left long enough you could actually see a wear spot in when you looked inside.
I have seen one or two older Ariston's that exhibited this problem.
Regards,
Drofo
RD80
I did enjoy reading your informative post.
I own a RD80 in very good shape and would like to upgrade it with a motor controller, without needing to replace the stock one that keeps working smoothly even after 30 years.
Would you please point me in the right direction regarding the Hercules psu ?
Is it a DIY project ?
Best regards
Ricardo
atavid said:
I did enjoy reading your informative post.
I own a RD80 in very good shape and would like to upgrade it with a motor controller, without needing to replace the stock one that keeps working smoothly even after 30 years.
Would you please point me in the right direction regarding the Hercules psu ?
Is it a DIY project ?
Best regards
Ricardo
The problem of the platter oscillating has existed since new. I think there is a slight imbalance of the platter itself.
I'm glad you found it interesting RCruz.Hope it inspires you to mod your TT.
I dont see why the Hercules wouldnt work for the RD80.I havnt seen underneath one,but if space was a problem for fitting the Hercules internal power supply board, then for a few more $ you can buy the Hercules as an outboard power supply in a compact elegant box, similiar in design to most external power supplies.Perhaps if you post a pic of the underside of the RD80 i can hazzard a guess as to whether it will fit or not.I cant recommend this mod highly enough,its a real quality piece of gear and the gentlemen i dealt with were extremly helpful.Gordon is the contact at Stamford Audio and i just for the moment forget the name of the guy in HK who designs and builds them for Stamford.I'm sure, that as they did for me, they would even modify the design to make it fit the RD80 if it didnt need too much work.Here's the link to Stamford:
http://www.stamfordaudio.co.uk/pages/1102.htm
I dont see why the Hercules wouldnt work for the RD80.I havnt seen underneath one,but if space was a problem for fitting the Hercules internal power supply board, then for a few more $ you can buy the Hercules as an outboard power supply in a compact elegant box, similiar in design to most external power supplies.Perhaps if you post a pic of the underside of the RD80 i can hazzard a guess as to whether it will fit or not.I cant recommend this mod highly enough,its a real quality piece of gear and the gentlemen i dealt with were extremly helpful.Gordon is the contact at Stamford Audio and i just for the moment forget the name of the guy in HK who designs and builds them for Stamford.I'm sure, that as they did for me, they would even modify the design to make it fit the RD80 if it didnt need too much work.Here's the link to Stamford:
http://www.stamfordaudio.co.uk/pages/1102.htm
United,i suppose you have tried moving the outer platter around on the inner platter so i wont try and tell you how to suck eggs.Have a look at what Drofo suggests,pull the spindle out and have a look at the indentation at the tip of the spindle where it contacts the bearing.If it is off centre then the ceramic disc i got for mine might be a solution for this.If however the bearing post is slightly bent off 90 degrees on the subchassis then that may also account for the wobble.You could try straightening it up to vertical again,but this would be hit and miss,but 'doable' i think.Linn actually make a tool just for this purpose.Worse case scenario mabye you could buy a linn cirkus kit which has the new bearing.Expensive,but probably very worth it.
I was forced to do that not because my bearing wasn't straight but my bearing cup started leaking oil all over the place. I just got a Linn bearing and subplatter chassis from Ebay. I didn't get a Cirkus bearing as they go for substantially more. The Cirkus bearing is more sturdy because of increased length and a double thickness subchassis to hold the bearing. This significantly reduces the amount of platter wobble. I don't how of the sound change is due to the bearing or to the sturdier mounting. I've never tried mounting a standard bearing to a Cirkus subchassis but mounting the standard bearing to a Cetech subchassis is supposed to produce a substantial improvement so maybe the sturdier mounting is more important.
Kevinkr and Drofo,if youre still checking this thread,i forgot to tell you that i did find the cause of that problem when i used to touch the arm and turntable top plate at the same time.It was Kevinkr suggestion actually,my PreAmp has a totally physically separate power suppy box, so i made an earth lead to run between the cases of the preamp and its power supply and hey presto no problemo.Thanks for that Kevin.
atavid said:
Thank you.
Hercules looks very godd indeed!! I will contact them by e-mail.
I have no underside pics right now .... but I would like to have an external psu to avoid vibrations inside the TT.
Would you please indicate a source for the ceramic disc... sounds like a very good modd also.😀
Regards
Ricardo