GlidingDutchman said:
Well before I can put any arm on there, I need to be able to make an arm board to support it ... , if templates exist, then this is a simple task, if none exist, then it is going to take some figuring out ...
The current arm board is drilled for a Micro arm with a post diameter of 28mm, and the REGA, to my knowledge, has a 22mm post ...
There must be some templates out there, but I have yet to find them, did find a bloke who makes and sells Ariston RD 11S arm boards for SME 3009 arms, but so far nothing for REGA or LINN ... , or any other arm for that matter
javascript:smilie('
')Reportedly there are 2x REGA arms I might be able to get, with "reportedly" good bearings, but the wires are buggered ...
Also reportedly there is a possibility of my getting a SME 3009 arm, condition unknown.
Further reportedly there is an Ortofon arm possibly available, also condition unknown ...
Situation as far as arms goes ... javascript:smilie('
') None of which will fit the current arm board .... <SIGH>
My guess, currently is that the arm that was in there and a REGA arm have similar length etc. and I might get away for the time being, making a bush/collar that will reduce the 28mm hole to 22mm and if required give it a little collar to correct VTA if required, but am not 100% sure that my guess is "good"
Genesis does have a lathe, and I know how to use one of those ... 🙂
From a report seem somewhere the arm board is 3/8 of an inch thick, and 3 3/8 of an inch in diameter ...
So if I can find templates it will be a relatively simple task to make arm boards from them.
Finances are pushed to the limits, as there where no plans made in the budget for "extras" like the Ariston, but I could not let it go.
As for my REGA arm, I am not chuffed with it, a few evenings ago, I put that "Groove Dancer" cartridge on it, and Genesis put new RCA's on, because the left channel had an intermittent "break, at the left RCA plug.
Now I have a constant low level HUM on it ... javascript:smilie('
') maybe the wiring is "brittle" with age and the earth wire broke ... don't know yet, and I just got too darn many things to do right now ... , so for now, I am limited to listening to music via CD only javascript:smilie('😡')Maybe I should "push" the budget a little more and get a new cartridge, a good budget special, for now ...
Also waiting for my Ariston to arrive here ... <SIGH>
Must make time to investigate those reports on the arms mentioned above before they "evaporate" and disappear ... <BIG SIGH>
JAVA
Revive an Ariston RD-11s
Hi Java
IMO a turned aluminium bush should be a better and easier option than making an entirely new armboard. I have made such a stepping-up bush for another arm and it's a piece of cake. Hang in here and I'll take a pic for ya and upload it here later.
bulgin
Hi Java
IMO a turned aluminium bush should be a better and easier option than making an entirely new armboard. I have made such a stepping-up bush for another arm and it's a piece of cake. Hang in here and I'll take a pic for ya and upload it here later.
bulgin
Why complicate things? Measure and trace the current armboard that is fitted to the deck. A Rega arms mounting center is presicely 222mm from the platter's spindle - same as most Micro Seiki arms...
You can actually fill up the existing armboard's mounting hole and redrill it for the Rega arm.
Easy peazy!
Thry getting hold of an old Linn Valhalla PSU for the deck...!
D
Re: Revive an Ariston RD-11s
That is what I have in mind for a start, but making a new arm board is easy, working out just where to drill the arm mounting hole is what bothers me ... , and there may be a simple solution to that, that I have not seen yet ...
bulgin said:
That is what I have in mind for a start, but making a new arm board is easy, working out just where to drill the arm mounting hole is what bothers me ... , and there may be a simple solution to that, that I have not seen yet ...
GlidingDutchman said:
I suppose 17 out of 25 can be regarded as most ('😀')
As it had a Micro arm on it, my guess would be a MA-701, Bulgin's idea is simpler for a start, as it has same mounting distance as a REGA arm ...
I don't like "filling" things up and then re-drilling, too many times the filling substance has later caused grief of one or other sort ... , lots of tears, and very little joy ...
If I am lucky, I will have a Linn Valhalla board, before the Ariston arrives here, and possibly a Linn motor as well, but that might not fit the sub-chassis without some sort of modification ...
Re: Revive an Ariston RD-11s
That is what I had in mind when I said making a bush/collar, only, depending on VTA requirements, I might even add the spacer/washer that might be needed for that purpose, for a similar item ...
Thanks,
Java
bulgin said:
That is what I had in mind when I said making a bush/collar, only, depending on VTA requirements, I might even add the spacer/washer that might be needed for that purpose, for a similar item ...
Thanks,
Java
GlidingDutchman said:
How do you use the mounting distance from the spindle to the arm board to determine the point on the arm board, where you need to center the hole that needs drilling?
Getting an arc of 222mm is easy, but how do you get a dissecting arc to determine the center spot for drilling ...
or,
Do you just pick the best spot ( closest to center) on the arm board and drill?
java said:
Thinking about it some more, the easiest way would be to measure the distance between the edges of the arc, i.e. where it begins and ends on the edges of the board, draw a line, half of the distance from the points, draw a line perpendicular to that line so it intersects the arc, and you have your drilling point ...
Am I making sense or am I waffling ...
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Upgrades
From my early readings I was convinced DC motors to have less torque... that should be the reason for lack of attack.
Maybe new motors obviate this issue.
Regards
Ricardo
Thank you Russelljava said:
From my early readings I was convinced DC motors to have less torque... that should be the reason for lack of attack.
Maybe new motors obviate this issue.
Regards
Ricardo
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Upgrades
Torque shouldn't be an issue, Origin Live have 2 motors on offer a DC100 and a DC200 which is a higher torque or more powerful version as I understand it ...
Am thinking of the DC200 for the RD 11S, with it's heavy platter ...
Russell
RCruz said:
Torque shouldn't be an issue, Origin Live have 2 motors on offer a DC100 and a DC200 which is a higher torque or more powerful version as I understand it ...
Am thinking of the DC200 for the RD 11S, with it's heavy platter ...
Russell
java said:
Waffing...
Remember this golden rule: MOUNTING DISTANCE REMAINS 222mm (for a Rega arm) ANY PLACE AROUND THE PLATTER, MEASURED FROM THE SPINDLE CENTER.
Just choose the spot nearest to the center of the armboard and drill. On my Credence deck I chose the spot where it was the most rigid.
If you dont like filling and such then for a trail use a piece of MDF or Supawood to make a temp armboard for the Rega. Trace, trace, trace...
Dont worry about a "Linn" motor... it is just a Premotec (same as Rega, Dunlop etc) or Airpax - as long as you can get a Linn Valhalla in there...
D
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Upgrades
Way too expensive!!
Rather build your own controller and buy a Maxton motor loose. Teres has a nice DC motor controller circuit on their DIY site...
Jy is mos goed met elektronika Russell?
D
java said:
Way too expensive!!
Rather build your own controller and buy a Maxton motor loose. Teres has a nice DC motor controller circuit on their DIY site...
Jy is mos goed met elektronika Russell?
D
Russell - have a look at this DIY PSU for AC motors: http://www.norre.dk/TTPSU/TTPSU.html#Downloads|outline
D
D
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Upgrades
Expensive that might be, but in my opinion, worth it ...
Remember, "You only get what you pay for, nothing more, and nothing less"
The Ariston, provides a base, on which one can build a very good turntable, especially if you don't try and do it all at once ... , and don't cut any corners, which fits my budget and my outlook, better, i.e. buy the bits in stages, upgrade as and when possible ... , and end up with the best possible version of that turntable, as I see it ... , and the ultimate Ariston, as I see it, is a fully upgraded Origin Live motor and electronic controller kit, with an Origin Live "Silver" arm, jury is still out on what cartridge to put on the end of the arm.
And what other mods/upgrades to do to the table ... , doesn't matter if it takes me 5-6 years to get there ... , it is a project that will keep me busy for quiet a while ...
I have a reasonable understanding of "electronic's" but am hopeless with a soldering iron ...
GlidingDutchman said:
Expensive that might be, but in my opinion, worth it ...
Remember, "You only get what you pay for, nothing more, and nothing less"
The Ariston, provides a base, on which one can build a very good turntable, especially if you don't try and do it all at once ... , and don't cut any corners, which fits my budget and my outlook, better, i.e. buy the bits in stages, upgrade as and when possible ... , and end up with the best possible version of that turntable, as I see it ... , and the ultimate Ariston, as I see it, is a fully upgraded Origin Live motor and electronic controller kit, with an Origin Live "Silver" arm, jury is still out on what cartridge to put on the end of the arm.
And what other mods/upgrades to do to the table ... , doesn't matter if it takes me 5-6 years to get there ... , it is a project that will keep me busy for quiet a while ...
I have a reasonable understanding of "electronic's" but am hopeless with a soldering iron ...
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Upgrades
I find Origin kit VERY expensive.
What about this Valhalla PSU.... Can it be used with a AC motor...
Anyone has compared the two kits ?
Regards
Ricardo
GlidingDutchman said:
Hijava said:
I find Origin kit VERY expensive.
What about this Valhalla PSU.... Can it be used with a AC motor...
Anyone has compared the two kits ?
Regards
Ricardo
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Upgrades
My opinion: Ortofon MC Rondo "Blue" - best value, best performance!
D
My opinion: Ortofon MC Rondo "Blue" - best value, best performance!
D
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Upgrades
Valhalla was Linn's first attempt at a electric power regenerating board, it is quite good, but tends to "push" noise back down your power lead and affects other components connected to the same source ...
Origin Live's kit is very much better ... ,
You get what you pay for, nothing more, and nothing less ...
RCruz said:
Valhalla was Linn's first attempt at a electric power regenerating board, it is quite good, but tends to "push" noise back down your power lead and affects other components connected to the same source ...
Origin Live's kit is very much better ... ,
You get what you pay for, nothing more, and nothing less ...
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Upgrades
If, Ortofon cartridge, then I'd go for the MC Rondo "Bronze", it is better than the Blue, but what makes it shine is it is one of those cartridges that is very kind to "noisy" LP's ... , it does not pick up the vinyl "roar" to the degree that many other lesser and some much dearer cartridges do ...
GlidingDutchman said:
If, Ortofon cartridge, then I'd go for the MC Rondo "Bronze", it is better than the Blue, but what makes it shine is it is one of those cartridges that is very kind to "noisy" LP's ... , it does not pick up the vinyl "roar" to the degree that many other lesser and some much dearer cartridges do ...
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Upgrades
The bronze is over-priced. It has the same stylus as the blue - only difference is the tapered cantilever. I have a Rondo Blue and it is a gem. Features a Fine Line stylus which extracts the best fro the LP grooves.
If you have cash to spend on a Bronze then you can rather jump to the Kontrapunkt B...
I know my Ortofon MC cartridges by heart! 😀
D
java said:
The bronze is over-priced. It has the same stylus as the blue - only difference is the tapered cantilever. I have a Rondo Blue and it is a gem. Features a Fine Line stylus which extracts the best fro the LP grooves.
If you have cash to spend on a Bronze then you can rather jump to the Kontrapunkt B...
I know my Ortofon MC cartridges by heart! 😀
D