@Russellc: Am using Randy's FlexReg PSUs and they are too tall for the custom chassis. Use any of Gianluca's 2U models -- they are inexpensive.
@tonyEE: You can buy any length of cable from raw cable, just change the value here.
https://www.rawcable.com/cable/1800F.htm
And for those of you keeping track of prices, in 2020, 200 feet of Belden 1800-f was $169.62. Four years later it is $340 -- almost twice as much.
@tonyEE: You can buy any length of cable from raw cable, just change the value here.
https://www.rawcable.com/cable/1800F.htm
And for those of you keeping track of prices, in 2020, 200 feet of Belden 1800-f was $169.62. Four years later it is $340 -- almost twice as much.
Hmm.... I have both Canare and Mogami.... are you trying to trap me into getting Belden and add that comparison to the op amps?
I'll do that iff ( that's the mathematical 'if and only if' ) you send me a case of bourbon to keep my sanity...
BTW... Amazon claims my cable shipped today and I'll have it tomorrow: Mogami 2534 Wire and Neutrik NC3MXX-B Male & NC3FXX-B Female XLR Plugs. I guess 10 feet is considered a 'custom' length.
I'll do that iff ( that's the mathematical 'if and only if' ) you send me a case of bourbon to keep my sanity...
BTW... Amazon claims my cable shipped today and I'll have it tomorrow: Mogami 2534 Wire and Neutrik NC3MXX-B Male & NC3FXX-B Female XLR Plugs. I guess 10 feet is considered a 'custom' length.
My small set of op amp ranking. BTW I didn't care to like one or the other more and approached this with an open mind. I started from the JRC and returned to it at the end.
My rank
1 JRC2068
2 NE5532
3 LF353
4 MC1458
Comparison with the below ranking from the other Mark Johnson's thread is perplexing..
Should I flip the sign in the Excel ranking formula or get the right decryption code to get the true ranking?!?
In detail from lowest ranking to highest:
4 - MC1458 high freq are rolled off, dark and dull sound - all LF and only LF seem to present. Imaging very poor, sound seems to come from the individual speakers. Maybe HF roll off robs all the imaging definition somehow. Maybe with ear-drilling ribbon tweeter speakers like Piega or something like that this could work?
Overall unplayable in my system.
3-LF353 brings back HF and imgaging substantially from the brink of the MC1458. The sound is decent but still rather thin, uninvolving and lacking midrange body. There is some sibilance in the highs that I found detracted the experience. The best characteristic of this chip is imaging.
2- NE5532 very balanced chip does everything pretty well but excels in nothing. A reliable 'middle manager' sound-wise, where the boss can go on vacation knowing the shop is not burning down. At the same time, only 85% of all promised jobs get done. 😛 I think the best characteristic is some unexpectedly pleasant high freq nuance and tone.
1-JRC2068 I'd call the sound 'bodacious' in most facets of the freq spectrum with the best definition of the group. All mids - all the time - sound that may not have the best imaging of the lot but remains very involving and enjoyable throughout. I think the chip provides enough revealing power to evaluate pickups without fear of missing out. I don't think other chips can do that.
L
My rank
1 JRC2068
2 NE5532
3 LF353
4 MC1458
Comparison with the below ranking from the other Mark Johnson's thread is perplexing..
Should I flip the sign in the Excel ranking formula or get the right decryption code to get the true ranking?!?
In detail from lowest ranking to highest:
4 - MC1458 high freq are rolled off, dark and dull sound - all LF and only LF seem to present. Imaging very poor, sound seems to come from the individual speakers. Maybe HF roll off robs all the imaging definition somehow. Maybe with ear-drilling ribbon tweeter speakers like Piega or something like that this could work?
Overall unplayable in my system.
3-LF353 brings back HF and imgaging substantially from the brink of the MC1458. The sound is decent but still rather thin, uninvolving and lacking midrange body. There is some sibilance in the highs that I found detracted the experience. The best characteristic of this chip is imaging.
2- NE5532 very balanced chip does everything pretty well but excels in nothing. A reliable 'middle manager' sound-wise, where the boss can go on vacation knowing the shop is not burning down. At the same time, only 85% of all promised jobs get done. 😛 I think the best characteristic is some unexpectedly pleasant high freq nuance and tone.
1-JRC2068 I'd call the sound 'bodacious' in most facets of the freq spectrum with the best definition of the group. All mids - all the time - sound that may not have the best imaging of the lot but remains very involving and enjoyable throughout. I think the chip provides enough revealing power to evaluate pickups without fear of missing out. I don't think other chips can do that.
L
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@grataku: Agree with you (as said above) concerning the 2068. Get a Burson 7 Vivid and try it out. As I noted in my review (#4751 above) the Burson was immediately superior to the 2068 -- and lacking the opamp SS shrillness you decried earlier. Have used it now for a week and wouldn't use anything else.
I'm too waiting for another set of V7 Dual Vivids... and the Classics.
My current set of V7 Vivis ( Duals and Singles ) are in the Burson DAC and not coming out for the foreseable future. They sound really good.
Question.... I keep the DAC always on.... do any of you noticed if the op amps need to warm up to sound their best? I was told to keep my P3 always on, except their LEDs (cyan) are darn bright.
My current set of V7 Vivis ( Duals and Singles ) are in the Burson DAC and not coming out for the foreseable future. They sound really good.
Question.... I keep the DAC always on.... do any of you noticed if the op amps need to warm up to sound their best? I was told to keep my P3 always on, except their LEDs (cyan) are darn bright.
No warmup sound change with my opamps for the P3. Does occur with my Aleph 30s that sound better once the mosfets have reached operating temp. That takes about 10 minutes. BTW, my Burson set came with the designation "V7 Audio Op-Amp Vivid/Classic" on the package and "V7 Vivid Pro Dual" on the invoice. Don't know if there is still a distinction between Vivid and Classic as there has been in the past.
There is a difference. Look at the markings... the Vivids have the V, the Classics a D.
Also, the color is different. As I recall, the classics are red, vivids orange.
All of my amps, by that I mean ALL, sound better after at least half an hour of warming up. The big Class A sound better after an hour.
Also, the color is different. As I recall, the classics are red, vivids orange.
All of my amps, by that I mean ALL, sound better after at least half an hour of warming up. The big Class A sound better after an hour.
It should be V7V and V7C.
I just ordered mine from the store. Cheaper shipping wins! Hope they fit the height in between the boards.
I just ordered mine from the store. Cheaper shipping wins! Hope they fit the height in between the boards.
🤣 You still jealous of me being able to fit the boards in nice tight case?
I am flattered.
Anyways, after looking at Burson slow a$$ website for 10min, I found 20mm height I should have plenty of room.
I am flattered.
Anyways, after looking at Burson slow a$$ website for 10min, I found 20mm height I should have plenty of room.
Yes, checked my V7Vs out this morning and they are bright red with the designation "V7V" on the side. BTW, when they come you will find them puzzling as regards identifying pin1 -- the slight oval in the middle of one side of the opamp aligns with the dip8 oval.
@grataku: as mentionned earlier, you need 19mm of height on top of your dip8 base. Measure from the top of your base, not from one board to the next.
@grataku: as mentionned earlier, you need 19mm of height on top of your dip8 base. Measure from the top of your base, not from one board to the next.
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Yep, I saw the dimple/grove on the side in the manual. I hope they are worth it! I chased the op amp dragon before based on other's suggestions to dismal end. Evidently some around here have cast iron ears. 😉
You seem to have similar taste in your opamp choices, so I am willing to risk it to see if I can level up a bit from the JRC.
The other HUGE variable here is influence of feedback when using low gain settings with MM pickups.
I am getting this 7.5mV, nuclear powered pickup so I might need to smack down the jfet gainstage even more by lowering r11 even further.
😉You seem to have similar taste in your opamp choices, so I am willing to risk it to see if I can level up a bit from the JRC.
The other HUGE variable here is influence of feedback when using low gain settings with MM pickups.
I am getting this 7.5mV, nuclear powered pickup so I might need to smack down the jfet gainstage even more by lowering r11 even further.
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@grataku: I assure you -- you won't be disappointed. This is "slam dunk" territory. BTW checked again on height and the V7Vs sit below the height of the heatsinks, so it will fit. Feedback and noise with the high output MM will be a test. Look forward to your estimation. Am using the Hana ML and it is a superb MC cartridge only diminished by its price and its 1000 hour lifespan. And your listening assessment of the opamps above indicates you've got a serious ear...
@Craigl59:
Tested de SMD jfets: all O.K. Checked orientation of all transistors: all correct and identical for left and right boards. Desoldered the left in -and output wire and could not find anything wrong with it. All solder joints of the left board also seem O.K. (see picture). Couldn't it be the SMD decoupling caps of the opamp? Have no idea how to check these.
Attachments
@stereonutty: disappointing that the problem has not been identified. The dip8 base soldering looks good to me -- others on this thread might find some other issues here. Others will have to help you with your question concerning decoupling caps.
How did you test the smd soldering? Is it possible to do a "jiggle test" on the wires when the P3 is operating and see if there is any change? Have had intermittent breaks in solid copper wires that caused no end of problems.
Keep us apprised as we are interesting in your problem and its solution.
How did you test the smd soldering? Is it possible to do a "jiggle test" on the wires when the P3 is operating and see if there is any change? Have had intermittent breaks in solid copper wires that caused no end of problems.
Keep us apprised as we are interesting in your problem and its solution.
Tested the SMD fets as in the video of the build guide, mutiple times approaching the joints from different sides with the DMM probes. Also tried if I could wiggle them with a tooth pick, with power off (seemed all very solid) and power on (no effect). Measuring the resistance of the wires gives 0 Ohm. Maybe I will replace them with stranded, but I have to order that. I think it wise to do that after the holydays. And I checked the dip8 base for continuity: all fine.
@stereonutty: You have been very careful in covering all of the bases I have had troubles with and think it's time for someone else to jump in. Have had success with topping off the smd legs using a fine tip iron with flux and careful soldering (headband magnifier helps). But this can cause problems as resoldering sometimes does.
Might help others to have you describe again the nature of the distortion/volume problem with the left channel. Also, you might try pressing the opamp when the channel is on and seeing if this affects the LED light (does it flicker?). Also, did you try using another opamp on this channel?
Otherwise, have a go DIY gurus; let's get stereonutty up and running.
Might help others to have you describe again the nature of the distortion/volume problem with the left channel. Also, you might try pressing the opamp when the channel is on and seeing if this affects the LED light (does it flicker?). Also, did you try using another opamp on this channel?
Otherwise, have a go DIY gurus; let's get stereonutty up and running.
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@stereonutty
there have been several reports over the course of this project where difficulties have been resolved by careful cleaning of PCBs especially of flux around solder pads and leads.
just sayin'
there have been several reports over the course of this project where difficulties have been resolved by careful cleaning of PCBs especially of flux around solder pads and leads.
just sayin'
