Here's another potential option, and what I'm using when needed. Adonstar AD409 Pro-ES with 10" screen, but they make many models.
Here's the hot plate. I use easy cleanup SMD low(er) temp paste solder. A mask is not needed for just a few parts as are on the P3, but very useful for full-SMD boards.
However, for the P3, the methods already discussed are suitable for most builders.
I said chopstick earlier but meant to say "toothpick", per this example. For the TH P3 SMD parts, I used Chipquik SMDSW 0.20 (really thin) no-clean water washable solder after applying Chipquik paste solder.
Same approach for installing the optional U2 and associated caps in my TH build.
Here's the hot plate. I use easy cleanup SMD low(er) temp paste solder. A mask is not needed for just a few parts as are on the P3, but very useful for full-SMD boards.
However, for the P3, the methods already discussed are suitable for most builders.
I said chopstick earlier but meant to say "toothpick", per this example. For the TH P3 SMD parts, I used Chipquik SMDSW 0.20 (really thin) no-clean water washable solder after applying Chipquik paste solder.
Same approach for installing the optional U2 and associated caps in my TH build.
That screen thingie looks great. I may not go that way as this will probably be my last build, either because i can’t do it any more or because the egg nog and a power supply were not a happy mix, but it seems like for those doing lots of this stuff it would be a superb investment.
The thing is I don't need 200 feet of cable... so I'm just happy to pay for pre terminated Canare and Mogami... at this point, I'm about to cancel the order for one cable and return the other one... and find another source.
Unfortunately, the local Guitar Center only carries crap that might satisfy a cheap guitar player....
An option -
https://diyaudiostore.com/products/balanced-audio-cable
https://diyaudiostore.com/products/balanced-audio-cable
- Neutrik NC3-B series XLR connectors with gold plated pins
- Flexible Belden 1800F
Amazon is incredibly screwed up.... or maybe it's this vendor ( World's Best Cables ). I've never had such an issue with them and I got several 3 and 6 footers but now I need a pair of ten footers. It was originally my error in that I ordered only ONE 10 foot cable, so I ordered the 2nd one. Then somehow nothing got done for two weeks... so I call, oops they say... technical glitch... so we cancel that order, order it again and... sure enough... four days later... still a technical glitch.
I guess I won't be ordering from these people anymore.. even though their product is very good.
I miss the days when I went to the office. ( work from home now ).
Stuff like this, I'd take a few boxes of chocolates to the ladies in the lab and they'd have boards like these done during their lunch break. Amazing hand to eye coordination.
Have you ever tried to replace/repair a micro USB female connector? I just threw away a Nuforce uDAC-3 because its connector is off and there is no way I can figure out how to replace it... but when I had a lab to work in, there's always be a technician lady who loved chocolates.
Nice cables but I need a 10 footer for the P3. The turntable and ancillaries sit on a Target rack while the preamp and amps are on a rack about 5 feet away. A 6 foot cable ( the likes of which I got ) is simply too short.
But for future, I might do it. Those short cables will be nice to have for sure in my next project.
Thanks.
that's what they said to me too... (queue the endless elevator music)
Yeah, that's the part I would like to know. The idea to go SE-XLR-SE-amp just puts more gain, more op amps and more feedback circuits in between the TT and the speakers.
There's no reason to use the XLR output if you're not attaching it to balanced stuff downstream.
That said, it works great.
That said, it works great.
That lamp is fine, but the focal distance is likely about 12". If you're comfortable with that much space between the magnifier and your work, you're probably good to go. I just went through this same idea before the holidays. From what I read working with swing arm lamps can be challenging. There can be some additional disorientation depending on where the magnifier is and the angle it is at which can cause you to possibly have your fingers maybe not in the right place. What did I come up with? The Donegan DA-4 Optivisor. 10" focal distance, allows you to move your head quite a bit more and has an option for a clip-on LED light. Apparently you can also use it over your regular eyeglasses and for me that's a bonus.
Iron Pre Balanced -> BA3 -> Bridged F4 ( alternatively, Iron Pre Balanced -> A2 )
Trying to keep it all balanced as I noticed the Iron sounds much better when driving balanced stuff.
Well, as it happens. I planned for this... if you remember, I made a point of making sure that the Iron Pre Bal outputs are always on, regardless of input type. that's why I got the Iron Pre Balanced preamps. Who knows, I might even buy an old ARC balanced preamp....
I know the P3 works great, but you ought to hear the Iron Pre running in balanced mode to the amps.
I've been waiting for more than a month.
On your power supply upgrade, does it all still fit in the custom modushop chassis, or are you using a different chassis? I would like to do this upgrade ( although my P3 works perfect and is dead silent) but want to keep original P3 power supply chassis if possible.
Thanks,
Russellc