@Gianluca: Finally got around to using your Monoblock chassis this summer and wanted to compliment you on this product -- they are a joy to work on and represent the high quality you bring to the field. Congrats!
BTW, have been getting your products from Italy to Arizona in two days with expedited FedEx shipping. Great speed here especially considering the weight involved.
BTW, have been getting your products from Italy to Arizona in two days with expedited FedEx shipping. Great speed here especially considering the weight involved.
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Agreed. I get stuff faster from Italy's Modushop HiFi 2000 in less time than ordering from the store, mouser or digikey!
GianLuca,
Will you be posting in this thread when the cases are available for order?
Thank you
Will you be posting in this thread when the cases are available for order?
Thank you
Of course, I have already suggested to everybody who is waiting to purchase one chassis to subscribe to this thread
It's alive! And sounding very, very good indded. This is my iteration with some chassis I had on hand. I call it a B1P3. It's a B1R2 pre variant I whipped up with a four selector relay board (only 3 used), with power on connect delay. It uses an SP3T switch for relay selection. Using all four relays would require a rotary switch or multiple toggles.
And of course it includes the killer Pearl 3 phone preamp. What a gem that is! It sounds so good! Big thanks to Papa and Wayne for their incredibly generous sharing that makes projects like this possible!
And of course it includes the killer Pearl 3 phone preamp. What a gem that is! It sounds so good! Big thanks to Papa and Wayne for their incredibly generous sharing that makes projects like this possible!
Should be in info when you bought them. otherwise there are several articles here on simple measurement. It may be noted on the bag they came in?
Where were they sourced from?
Where were they sourced from?
Papa gave a simple method here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/2sk170-matching.141162/#post-1784617
You can use a 9V battery for the DC source.
I am going to test the P3 with a high quality linear supply, a Silent Switcher V2, Super-Reg, and a simple Murata DC-DC converter and see if my "golden ears" can detect a difference.
Don't forget that Pearl3 has MC7n15 voltage regulator ICs onboard -- whatever ripple, hash, noise, ick-matter, and yuck-o-rama you provide to Pearl3 on the raw-DC-inputs, is further attenuated by these ICs on the Pearl3 board itself. Pearl3 filters what you give it.
Naturally I recommend using the UDP3 (found here on diyAudio) upstream of Pearl3, for greatest precision. But not everyone can afford the top end of the top end.
Naturally I recommend using the UDP3 (found here on diyAudio) upstream of Pearl3, for greatest precision. But not everyone can afford the top end of the top end.
These were sent to me from PASS DIY with my Pearl 2 boards.
Following those instructions I get 0.670V DC using a 9V battery.