Here is the 'HDHTPC' idea i've been playing with... It will be a wall mount with a RF or Bluetooth KB & mouse. I'm attempting to price parts now to see if it'll fit into my budget 
Oh yeah, note the gear driven focus idea. I plan on lining the chamber for the projection lens with felt. It should seal out any light leaks and make it slide nicely.
It's all to scale except for the ballast at the bottom. Anyone know the size of the LL balast off hand? I hope to keep it down there to eliminate any possible RF interference.
spamh8r - My heatsink reflector idea is shown
Hezz - I'll get those measurements for you shortly
Oh yeah, note the gear driven focus idea. I plan on lining the chamber for the projection lens with felt. It should seal out any light leaks and make it slide nicely.
It's all to scale except for the ballast at the bottom. Anyone know the size of the LL balast off hand? I hope to keep it down there to eliminate any possible RF interference.
spamh8r - My heatsink reflector idea is shown
Hezz - I'll get those measurements for you shortly
Attachments
Inkog,
Thank you. That's a great little drawing and a big help to me. Keep up the good work.
Hezz
Thank you. That's a great little drawing and a big help to me. Keep up the good work.
Hezz
Hello all,
Just thought I'd post a update as I had expected to have some experimental results this weekend. Well my optics shipment from DIYPC got delayed again, but should ship on the 16th. I ordered my bulb and ballast already, and they should arrive this week also. So if things go as planned maybe some results next weekend.
Here is a complete list of the major parts I went with if anyone is interested:
ProView PL576ws 15.4" TTFT LCD 1280x800 (Staples)
400w S400DD MH bulb w/eBallast - 33,000 lumens / 5200k (LL)
2 x Ikea Napkin holder reflector (forgot)
2 x 330mm fl 15.5x15.5" fresnels (DIYPC)
135mm Long-Throw Projection Lens Triplet (DIYPC)
12.5x16" Front Surface Mirror (LL) - (Part of this is for another project)
15.5x15.5 IR Glass (DIYPC)
2x3' Lexan XL10 UV Polycarbonate (HomeDepot)
2 x 90mm 60CFM PC Fans (Comp USA)
Aerogate II fan controller and temp monitor (Laptops4me)
+ Lots of other odds and ends not directly related to function... but mostly form 😀
I aquired a copy of XP MCE 2005 and set it up this weekend with my HDTV Wonder and I am very impressed! A dedicated projector/HTPC is looking very, very good to me now. I have allways wanted a mobile PJ, and building in a HTPC would be ideal. I have been working on this idea over the weekend and think I have devised a way to be able to move forward, and complete the projector portion, as I aquire parts for the HTPC and add them in later.
Anyone else moving forward on thier ProView projects? It's been awhile since I've heard from anyone.
More updates (and pics) soon... stay tunned!
Just thought I'd post a update as I had expected to have some experimental results this weekend. Well my optics shipment from DIYPC got delayed again, but should ship on the 16th. I ordered my bulb and ballast already, and they should arrive this week also. So if things go as planned maybe some results next weekend.
Here is a complete list of the major parts I went with if anyone is interested:
ProView PL576ws 15.4" TTFT LCD 1280x800 (Staples)
400w S400DD MH bulb w/eBallast - 33,000 lumens / 5200k (LL)
2 x Ikea Napkin holder reflector (forgot)
2 x 330mm fl 15.5x15.5" fresnels (DIYPC)
135mm Long-Throw Projection Lens Triplet (DIYPC)
12.5x16" Front Surface Mirror (LL) - (Part of this is for another project)
15.5x15.5 IR Glass (DIYPC)
2x3' Lexan XL10 UV Polycarbonate (HomeDepot)
2 x 90mm 60CFM PC Fans (Comp USA)
Aerogate II fan controller and temp monitor (Laptops4me)
+ Lots of other odds and ends not directly related to function... but mostly form 😀
I aquired
a copy of XP MCE 2005 and set it up this weekend with my HDTV Wonder and I am very impressed! A dedicated projector/HTPC is looking very, very good to me now. I have allways wanted a mobile PJ, and building in a HTPC would be ideal. I have been working on this idea over the weekend and think I have devised a way to be able to move forward, and complete the projector portion, as I aquire parts for the HTPC and add them in later.Anyone else moving forward on thier ProView projects? It's been awhile since I've heard from anyone.
More updates (and pics) soon... stay tunned!
can it be used instead of glass sheets? Is it strong? Will it hold up to heat and not burn or warp?
Yes you can use it as a replacement for glass, as this is its realworld purpose.
It is very, very strong.
It will melt, but its melting point is very high. You cannot however use it very close to your light source, as that is just too hot. Sorry I do not know the exact specs off hand. I would think that 4-5" would be OK with proper cooling.
I plan to use it mostly for its UV blocking properties as my bulb does not have this protection. I will be using the IR glass closest to my bulb then the lexan next, helping to support my fresnels and keep them from warping.
It is very, very strong.
It will melt, but its melting point is very high. You cannot however use it very close to your light source, as that is just too hot. Sorry I do not know the exact specs off hand. I would think that 4-5" would be OK with proper cooling.
I plan to use it mostly for its UV blocking properties as my bulb does not have this protection. I will be using the IR glass closest to my bulb then the lexan next, helping to support my fresnels and keep them from warping.
Lexan
One interesting point: The Lexan polycarbonate itself is a very good UV filter, but over time the UV light will turn it yellow. This is caused by damage to the polymer molecules. To make Lexan more valuable as a high security window glass replacement, they added a much better UV stop coating.
Lexan XL10 is the most common variety of this: It has the UV stop coating on one side. If you install it with the coating facing away from the lamp, it will still project your fresnels and LCD but it won't protect itself! (So it will yellow over time.) So pay attention to the label that says "Install this side out". By "out" they mean "facing the UV source" which is usually the sun.
There are several other varieties. Some have the UV stop coating on both sides. (I guess they market those in places where people don't read directions! 😀 )
One interesting point: The Lexan polycarbonate itself is a very good UV filter, but over time the UV light will turn it yellow. This is caused by damage to the polymer molecules. To make Lexan more valuable as a high security window glass replacement, they added a much better UV stop coating.
Lexan XL10 is the most common variety of this: It has the UV stop coating on one side. If you install it with the coating facing away from the lamp, it will still project your fresnels and LCD but it won't protect itself! (So it will yellow over time.) So pay attention to the label that says "Install this side out". By "out" they mean "facing the UV source" which is usually the sun.
There are several other varieties. Some have the UV stop coating on both sides. (I guess they market those in places where people don't read directions! 😀 )
I would also expect (unfilled, unreinforced) Lexan to creep over time if exposed to a load and the heat of your light engine. My point is I would still use glass to support the fresnel lenses, particularly in a vertical orientation.
Inkog,
Have you measured how thick the LCD is without the backlight on it. I'm coming up with some LCD mounting brackets but I havn't had time to strip mine yet as I don't have a safe place to keep it until I mount it.
Also I've got to get a light. It's the only thing I need except for a small piece of IR glass.
Hezz
Have you measured how thick the LCD is without the backlight on it. I'm coming up with some LCD mounting brackets but I havn't had time to strip mine yet as I don't have a safe place to keep it until I mount it.
Also I've got to get a light. It's the only thing I need except for a small piece of IR glass.
Hezz
offgassing?
Has anyone looked into this as far as lexan? I know that a lot of plastics will put out toxic fumes long before they melt.
Has anyone looked into this as far as lexan? I know that a lot of plastics will put out toxic fumes long before they melt.
Lexan sagging?
I have not read any reports of this. But maybe it would be a good idea to use the double-sided Lexan instead. Then you could flip it over once a year or so, whenever you clean your fresnels. This would only apply if it lays horizontally in an upright style projector.
Actually, I would be surprised if it did sag, if the only weight on it is one or two acrylic fresnels. You can beat Lexan with a hammer and it doesn't break.
I have not read any reports of this. But maybe it would be a good idea to use the double-sided Lexan instead. Then you could flip it over once a year or so, whenever you clean your fresnels. This would only apply if it lays horizontally in an upright style projector.
Actually, I would be surprised if it did sag, if the only weight on it is one or two acrylic fresnels. You can beat Lexan with a hammer and it doesn't break.
I'm sure you can find many MSDS sheets for Lexan grades on the GE Plastics website. In short, no - polycarbonate (GE's tradename Lexan) is relatively safe and will not give off dangerous fumes like overtemped Acrylic or PVC can. I've processed tens of thousands of pounds of Lexan and Lexan blends as well as competitor's polycarbonates and never had a problem.
Yes, all unreinforced thermoplastics will creep, or cold flow because they are viscoelastic meaning they have both an elastic component and a viscous component. These effects are accelerated at higher temperatures. Polycarbonate can have a DTUL (deflection temperature under load) of as low as 250 degrees F. Polycarbonate certainly can be impact resistant, but the degree of impact resistance depends upon the grade and thickness of the material. I have shattered many pieces of polycarbonate in my time and would take the bet that I could break the .093" thick stock they have at Home Depot without even having to pull out my biggest hammer. 😉
I would be quite surprised if an unsupported piece of Lexan above a light engine in a DIY Projector Company style design did not sag over time.
I would be quite surprised if an unsupported piece of Lexan above a light engine in a DIY Projector Company style design did not sag over time.
Hezz said:
No I'm sorry, I have yet to strip my LCD down that far. I had planned to keep the LCD in the metal frame for protection, and use it as a safe mounting device.
Once you strip the LCD you'll notice that the backlight snaps into place with a white plastic "square ring" into the frame. You should be able to pop this ring out and remove the backlight while leaving the LCD in this metal enclosure. My *guess* is that after the backlight is removed, you could replace this "plastic ring" and have a perfectly good protective mount.
I'll try to get some pictures of this for you if you would like. I am still using the monitor as a TV at this point, and let me say it is a very nice one. I have gotten the contrast and saturation to far beyond the level that I even expected out of this panel. I cannot wait to see a projected image!
Maybe you can ask 18wheeler as he is the only one I know that has actually stripped this monitor bare. If you can wait a bit, I'll be happy to provide you with this info. But just like you, I'm waiting as long as I can to strip it completely, as we all know the risks with this...
Inkog,
Thanks for the input. I will check with 18wheeler and see if he knows the thickness.
What are you doing to improve the color and saturation. Software? I have been adjusting the onscreen controls but I don't seem to be getting much of what I want other than an overall acceptable picture.
Hezz
Thanks for the input. I will check with 18wheeler and see if he knows the thickness.
What are you doing to improve the color and saturation. Software? I have been adjusting the onscreen controls but I don't seem to be getting much of what I want other than an overall acceptable picture.
Hezz
Hezz,
Bare in mind these setting are not perfect, but this is what I've found to give the best settings for me with my analog and HDTV tuner, and general PC display.
Brightness ~16
Contrast ~ 82
Red ~ 56
Blue ~50
Green ~ 58
Cool color setting
The auto setting frankly sucks in IMHO. Too bad it is needed for correcting lower resolution positons, causing you to have to reset color values
I'm glad I shouldn't be using this function much.
I also think using Cyberlink's CLEV video enhancement will do wonders for projected image saturation. It is not needed normally, but once projected, I think it will add a world of difference. I guess we'll see 😉 . I'm using cyberlink as my mpeg2 decoder for MCE 05 and think it is even better than Nvidia or ATI.
Bare in mind these setting are not perfect, but this is what I've found to give the best settings for me with my analog and HDTV tuner, and general PC display.
Brightness ~16
Contrast ~ 82
Red ~ 56
Blue ~50
Green ~ 58
Cool color setting
The auto setting frankly sucks in IMHO. Too bad it is needed for correcting lower resolution positons, causing you to have to reset color values
I'm glad I shouldn't be using this function much.I also think using Cyberlink's CLEV video enhancement will do wonders for projected image saturation. It is not needed normally, but once projected, I think it will add a world of difference. I guess we'll see 😉 . I'm using cyberlink as my mpeg2 decoder for MCE 05 and think it is even better than Nvidia or ATI.
I got my shipment from LL today! They shipped it out on Monday so it arrived very quickly. They must be somewhere here in the midwest. All in all it took less than 1 week from when I placed my order.
The front surface mirror is of very high quality and was packaged well.
The eBalllast appears to be of fairly good quality. It is manufactured by Zarva Technology Group Ningbo Lighting & Electric Appliances C0. LTD. Model LKEB-400MHD. The very limited documentation states (in broken english) that it has both delay, overheat, open circuit, and short circuit protection. For the price, if it works I'm happy.
The mogul base is nothing special but I didn't expect much. It was also packaged well, but does have a hairline crack in the ceramics. It should be fine and easy enough to replace if it worsens.
I do have concerns about the OSRAM bulb. I noticed it sounded broken as soon as I took it out of the box. It turns out that there is several shards of what looks like brown glass inside the base of the lamp. I am not certain if they will affect the operation of the bulb or not. They are not in the main glass chaber of the bulb, and no glass appears to be broken otherwise. I think they are shards from when the metal base was applied during the manufacturing proccess.
I also noticed tiny sherical silver colored debris inside the arc chamber. I have no idea if these are normal or not. I first thought that they where what was left of some type of element in the arc chamber, but I don't beleve these bulbs contain any kind of element. Again I guess we will see soon enough, once I get it fired up
Now if DIYPC would ship my optics I could start getting some stuff done!
Getting close my friends...
The front surface mirror is of very high quality and was packaged well.
The eBalllast appears to be of fairly good quality. It is manufactured by Zarva Technology Group Ningbo Lighting & Electric Appliances C0. LTD. Model LKEB-400MHD. The very limited documentation states (in broken english) that it has both delay, overheat, open circuit, and short circuit protection. For the price, if it works I'm happy.
The mogul base is nothing special but I didn't expect much. It was also packaged well, but does have a hairline crack in the ceramics. It should be fine and easy enough to replace if it worsens.
I do have concerns about the OSRAM bulb. I noticed it sounded broken as soon as I took it out of the box. It turns out that there is several shards of what looks like brown glass inside the base of the lamp. I am not certain if they will affect the operation of the bulb or not. They are not in the main glass chaber of the bulb, and no glass appears to be broken otherwise. I think they are shards from when the metal base was applied during the manufacturing proccess.
I also noticed tiny sherical silver colored debris inside the arc chamber. I have no idea if these are normal or not. I first thought that they where what was left of some type of element in the arc chamber, but I don't beleve these bulbs contain any kind of element. Again I guess we will see soon enough, once I get it fired up
Now if DIYPC would ship my optics I could start getting some stuff done!
Getting close my friends... I have no idea as to the shards of glasslike material but somewhere here TaskMaster was selling some extra bulbs and he and ACE had a discussion about how to know if a bulb/lamp is really new or not. ACE said that in a new lamp there will be small spheres of MH that will become vapor after the first power up. This is third hand info so I would ask ACE about it.
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