L12-2 CFP Output amp 120W*2 8R

I suggest you use it like this
No power is required.
A lot of times, we add something. Including money. It's possible to get the bad, not the good.
Here's a picture. Remove opa2134

I Tried it like this and to me, it sounded terrible! With the circuit I built, It's dead quiet and works perfect. Sure there may be added noise but I can't hear any at all. That's my 2cents...

The amp is very good sounding, so thanks for selling them...
 
Hi,

I have relocated the L12.2 from the original case to a second one, as I got its PSU back for the MX50X2.

The latter (MX50X2)I like it a lot and I ordered a second for bi-amplification.

For now here are some pictures of the L12.2 that I put in a vintage Kenwood box, previously it was a class D amp that was in it, an IRS2092 based amp for the bass.
 

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This amp seems rather popular, I want to buy a pair of pre-assembled boards. Is there some wiki / FAQ post for new L12-2 owners? Any tips and tricks? Mods? I've scrolled through a couple dozen pages of this thread, still ways to go...
 
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Thank you guys for quick response and advices. Actually I fully assembled my amplifier and testing it. I will probably live with that hum since is hardly heard in speakers. But in any occasion I will try to fix this.

The hum is probably coming out of PSU trafo, u need to supply both boards from the same point, if your PSU caps are far from each other you may hear hum coming in from trafo because it inducts in the wiring once some little load is connected (can be anything like LC combination). You probably will not actually see that on the scope in the PSU itself, it is inducted in the wires and it is enough to connect affected board with one cable on any sort with no power or any other connections to induct a very low 50hz in the entire system. So shielding is advised and keep all cables same lengths and supply from the same point.
 
I want to build a amp around the l12-2. I already have them.
I also have a case where i want to put everything in, but it's a tiny case. I can fit 2 toroid transformers in it with a max diameter of 100mm and max 50mm heigh. This means a transformer of 120va for one channel.
I don't want to use all of the power, i'm happy with 40-50w@8ohm.
But i don't want to destroy the PSU and want good quality sound.
Is this possible?
I can get 2 amplimo 2x35v 120VA toroids.
If it's possible, how much uF of capacitors should i add per channel?
Min. 10.000uf?

A sketch of the setup i want to use if possible

Solid State Power Amplifier Supply Part 1
 
The hum is probably coming out of PSU trafo, u need to supply both boards from the same point, if your PSU caps are far from each other you may hear hum coming in from trafo because it inducts in the wiring once some little load is connected (can be anything like LC combination). You probably will not actually see that on the scope in the PSU itself, it is inducted in the wires and it is enough to connect affected board with one cable on any sort with no power or any other connections to induct a very low 50hz in the entire system. So shielding is advised and keep all cables same lengths and supply from the same point.

@tp1975 thank you for coming back to this topic as it is still not solved. The main problem is that when I power up both L12-2 without preamplifier connected to them there's no hum at all. Therefore I do not blame my PSU.
The hum apperas not after connecting whole preamplifier ( powered from the same PSU ) but just the volume/loudness assembly with motor as seen on a picture. There are 2 x2 potentiometers on that plate. One set is for signal into preamplifier and second set is for signal out to power amplifier. Don't know what causes that hum and I am asking for an advice.
 

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This amp seems rather popular, I want to buy a pair of pre-assembled boards. Is there some wiki / FAQ post for new L12-2 owners? Any tips and tricks? Mods? I've scrolled through a couple dozen pages of this thread, still ways to go...


Don't get the preassembled board, quality of assembly is terrible.
I ended up buying a DIY one after I got the preassembled one.
It is easy to solder, you need at most 4 hours for the 2 boards, including testing the components.
 
I've build 16 of these little amps so far and all of them worked flawlessly! still have plenty of these kits in my shop for use in my active speaker systems.

The pre-assembled boards I received are totally unusable as the soldering is terrible to say it mildly. Some of the modules only lived for 6 month due to fried semi's.
 
Thanks for the warning. Unfortunately, I already ordered my pre-assembled boards from Aliexpress, seemed the right choice since it only costs $3 extra over the DIY kit (PCB + parts). It will take me way more than $3 in my working time to assemble two boards, although with all the components being through-hole the assembly does seem very feasible and not challenging.
Some of the modules only lived for 6 month due to fried semi's.
Ouch. Do you think the parts were defective or counterfeit? I don't mind re-flowing all the solder joints to fix any potential assembly issues, but this means that self-assembling a kit from China is also not a guarantee of success.
 
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Let's hope so.
Mine were soldered all crooked, everything was bent and 2 resistors fried in 2 weeks.
Replaced them to get the boards working then got the DIY.
Assembled them just right and they have been running since July.

On question thougt for the other owners.

I am trying to A/B compare with my iotavx SA3+PA3 stack.

Configutation is

- Topping D90 to SA3+PA3 stack
- Topping D90 (volume controlled my the pc) staight to the L12-2

I can't make up my mind on wich sounds better.

D90 direct to the L12-2 semme to be more dynamic and detailed (I tried going threw a DIY tube amp, it was good but had some distortion at high volume) but the stack seems more laid back and more relaxing.

The tube amp seemed to do a good job except for the distortion kicking in quite fast.

I was wondering if anyone has experienced it with a Topping PRE90 preamp or any other solid state preamp and telle me if it meets hight standards.

Thanks
 
I used the L12.2 for many months with the DCB1 Hot Road buffer between the DAC and the amp. The problem with the L12.2, the tone is thin in the lower midrange and bass, the DCB1 adds body and consistency.

What I criticize the most is the soundstage which lacks depth.
 
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