Hi. The problem related by Erdimeter looks like the one I encounter myself, described rather precisely higher in this thread. There seem to be a slight difference though: Erdimeter writes "if I load a cd manually it is work fine", which I can't do. Can't open or close the drawer at all. The only way to play a disc on my W16 is to open it (I mean open the whole player physically, cover and all!) and do the whole thing manually. Not very practical if I want to listen to more than one CD.
As I said before, I can't work any "servo" command (play, stop, open, close, next, previous...), whether from the 2 buttons on the faceplate or from the remote. All level or source commands work from the remote. But none of those concerning the disc itself. I didn't find the time to put it again on the bench. It takes some time to take the whole thing apart and get to the servo board, not saying that once you are on the Teac servo PCB (which is UNDER the DAC board), I'm not sure I'll be able to power up the machine without the DAC PCB in place. I'll have to check that.
But to give some kind of an answer to Erdimeter, I tested a few caps on the servo and the ones I tested were good (good enough!). I still have to do what I talked about on post #31. Too many different things I had to do prevented me to do that earlier. Not sure, as Rockeater mentions it, that caps are the culprit in this player. But it's not impossible. Considering the way it stopped working (after 15 days of holidays during which I hadn't -unfortunately -unplugged it), working perfectly before, commands not working after... I was thinking of a surge or so, which could have damaged a diode (would be lucky) or a chip (less lucky...). This I've got to check.
Sorry I can't give more information ;(
As I said before, I can't work any "servo" command (play, stop, open, close, next, previous...), whether from the 2 buttons on the faceplate or from the remote. All level or source commands work from the remote. But none of those concerning the disc itself. I didn't find the time to put it again on the bench. It takes some time to take the whole thing apart and get to the servo board, not saying that once you are on the Teac servo PCB (which is UNDER the DAC board), I'm not sure I'll be able to power up the machine without the DAC PCB in place. I'll have to check that.
But to give some kind of an answer to Erdimeter, I tested a few caps on the servo and the ones I tested were good (good enough!). I still have to do what I talked about on post #31. Too many different things I had to do prevented me to do that earlier. Not sure, as Rockeater mentions it, that caps are the culprit in this player. But it's not impossible. Considering the way it stopped working (after 15 days of holidays during which I hadn't -unfortunately -unplugged it), working perfectly before, commands not working after... I was thinking of a surge or so, which could have damaged a diode (would be lucky) or a chip (less lucky...). This I've got to check.
Sorry I can't give more information ;(
I would think then, that there could be communication (or a simple ribbon cable connection) problem somewhere.
On my 16, when I got it, it was not responsive because previous workshop reversed the ribbon from servo board to the DAC board (from where it goes to the display board).
If your players just failed one day, it would not be applicable, because ribbon cables do not jump out to reverse themselves, but on mine it was a man made fault.
What was funny, is that they marked the ribbon and the board with a number of lines in order not to reverse them, but they reversed them on the servo board end which they failed to mark...
The Wadia smarts should be OK, if the player still plays.
On my 16, when I got it, it was not responsive because previous workshop reversed the ribbon from servo board to the DAC board (from where it goes to the display board).
If your players just failed one day, it would not be applicable, because ribbon cables do not jump out to reverse themselves, but on mine it was a man made fault.
What was funny, is that they marked the ribbon and the board with a number of lines in order not to reverse them, but they reversed them on the servo board end which they failed to mark...
I would then check driver and receiver chips each side of the servo -> DAC - > display board.Considering the way it stopped working (after 15 days of holidays during which I hadn't -unfortunately -unplugged it), working perfectly before, commands not working after... I was thinking of a surge or so, which could have damaged a diode (would be lucky) or a chip (less lucky...).
The Wadia smarts should be OK, if the player still plays.
And maybe Erdimeter has something to add about the exact circumstances of the fail? I'm unsure to understand if he can open/close the tray or not (either faceplate or remote). Nice day to all 😉Yes I remember you mentioning that. As you say, it can't apply to my player. Unfortunately.previous workshop reversed the ribbon from servo board to the DAC board
This is what I have to do I guess. Chips and diodes/caps around the chips. I'll tell you when I'm here!check driver and receiver chips each side of the servo -> DAC - > display board
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Thank you for reply perelman. I will be check again.Hi. The problem related by Erdimeter looks like the one I encounter myself, described rather precisely higher in this thread. There seem to be a slight difference though: Erdimeter writes "if I load a cd manually it is work fine", which I can't do. Can't open or close the drawer at all. The only way to play a disc on my W16 is to open it (I mean open the whole player physically, cover and all!) and do the whole thing manually. Not very practical if I want to listen to more than one CD.
As I said before, I can't work any "servo" command (play, stop, open, close, next, previous...), whether from the 2 buttons on the faceplate or from the remote. All level or source commands work from the remote. But none of those concerning the disc itself. I didn't find the time to put it again on the bench. It takes some time to take the whole thing apart and get to the servo board, not saying that once you are on the Teac servo PCB (which is UNDER the DAC board), I'm not sure I'll be able to power up the machine without the DAC PCB in place. I'll have to check that.
But to give some kind of an answer to Erdimeter, I tested a few caps on the servo and the ones I tested were good (good enough!). I still have to do what I talked about on post #31. Too many different things I had to do prevented me to do that earlier. Not sure, as Rockeater mentions it, that caps are the culprit in this player. But it's not impossible. Considering the way it stopped working (after 15 days of holidays during which I hadn't -unfortunately -unplugged it), working perfectly before, commands not working after... I was thinking of a surge or so, which could have damaged a diode (would be lucky) or a chip (less lucky...). This I've got to check.
Sorry I can't give more information ;(
Rockeater thank you for your attention.I would think then, that there could be communication (or a simple ribbon cable connection) problem somewhere.
On my 16, when I got it, it was not responsive because previous workshop reversed the ribbon from servo board to the DAC board (from where it goes to the display board).
If your players just failed one day, it would not be applicable, because ribbon cables do not jump out to reverse themselves, but on mine it was a man made fault.
What was funny, is that they marked the ribbon and the board with a number of lines in order not to reverse them, but they reversed them on the servo board end which they failed to mark...
I would then check driver and receiver chips each side of the servo -> DAC - > display board.
The Wadia smarts should be OK, if the player still plays.
Was your 16 same problem with mine(work fine but no servo commands from remote or front panel)
What was the problem exactly of your 16 before reverse the flexible ribbon cable?
The previous owner tampered with it and wrote something on the ribbons. I think it's the same fault with your own 16.
Now, I'm worried that if I reverse the strip from the servo card to the dac card, there will be damage to the device. Also, if the ribbon cable is inserted upside down, Isn't it interesting that the device is still working?
How can I find the correct connection positions for flexible ribbon cables.
Can someone help me ?
Thank you very much in advance for your attention.
Hi erdimeter, which ribbon cable are you talking about? there are two at the front (near the faceplate), one connecting the servo to the DAC board, one connecting the DAC to the display (faceplate). There is one on the left side (facing the device), connecting servo and DAC PCBs, and one on the right side of the DAC PCB connecting to the PSU. As far as I can remember. Which is the one you would suspect to be wrong-sided?
But as you say, if the player plays the disc, it seems unlikely that a ribbon cable would be reverse positioned.
But as you say, if the player plays the disc, it seems unlikely that a ribbon cable would be reverse positioned.
Hi Jerome.Thanks Pedro for these large pictures.
I see some kind of butyl mat on many components and also on somme parts of the chassis, am I wrong? Did it come like this or did you apply this yourself, and if so, did you experiment any improvement?
Good evening to all
It was done after, some tuning stuff 😉
For what I remember they only come with some cooper/foil on some capacitor and chips.
Wadia 16 CD commands don't work...
English translation below
Bonjour Pierre,
je suis en train d'essayer de comprendre la nature du problème de mon Wadia 16 que je résume ci-dessous :
Pendant des années, tout fonctionne bien (très bien même), jusqu'à un jour où les commandes "disque" ont arrêté de fonctionner.
Symptômes :
S'il y a un disque dans la machine, et que j'allume la machine, alors la lecture démarre, et va jusqu'à la fin du disque, sans aucun problème.
Mais :
Aucune commande du plateau ne fonctionne (Stop/Play/Skip/Search/Index/Pause/Open/Close etc...), que ce soit via la télécommande ou directement en façade (2 boutons Play/Open).
Les autres fonctions de la télécommande fonctionnent (volume, source, display on-off, input, mute, insert. La led Pause s'allume mais il n'est pas en pause), donc j'élimine un problème sur la télécommande ou sur le récepteur IR.
Au démontage (presque complet), je n'observe aucun signe de surchauffe ou d'oxydation, ni sur le circuit de conversion DAC Wadia (celui du dessus, visible dès l'ouverture du capot supérieur), ni sur le Servo PCB Teac (celui du dessous, qui nécessite pour être accessible de démonter le PCB du dessus). Le Key PCB (tel que décrit sur le pdf du schéma Teac), c'est à dire le PCB de l'afficheur - entre autres) présentait quelques traces d'oxydation sur les connecteurs JP1 et JP2, pas sûr que les contacts étaient parfaits, donc nettoyage. Pour le démontage de cette carte, ce n'est pas seulement retirer 3 vis... il faut sortir toute la façade avant. ça se fait mais il faut prévoir une petite heure quand même.
Donc je reprends. Au début je pensais naïvement que le CI responsable pouvait (pouvait) être le MAX7219 (qui est comme le dit le datasheet, un 8-Digit LED Display Driver) qui se trouve être le CI présent sur le Key PCB. Sur la notice Teac (du VRDS T1 ou du VRDS 10 ou du VRDS 25), ce CI est censé être un µPD7566. Peut-être est-ce le cas sur les TEAC mais pas sur le Wadia, qui doit bénéficier de sa propre carte d'affichage... Mais si ce MAX7219 est un Led Display driver (et il l'est), peu de chances pour que ce soit en lien avec les commandes du CD.
Donc, je reviens sur les schematics disponibles chez TEAC (10 et 25 qui correspondent le mieux au Wadia 16, mécanique Teac CMK 3,2 / laser Sony KSS151A). Ce module d'affichage est relié par des nappes à la carte DAC et à la carte Servo.
En remontant le tout, je m'aperçois que l'un des fils qui relie la carte Servo à la mécanique (fil orange qui relie le connecteur P405 de la carte Servo à la mécanique Teac) est comme "écrasé". Ou comme s'il avait pris un coup de chaud et que sa gaine ait "fondu". Pas facile de tester la continuité mais elle ne tient qu'à un fil. Dans le doute je coupe, soude et gaine. L'endroit de ce défaut sur le fil se situe environ au niveau du condensateur C491 sur le PCB Servo. Aurait-il chauffé et fondu partiellement la gaine ? je ne le saurai pas tout de suite, puisque je pense à cet instant avoir compris l'origine de la panne. Funeste erreur, après remontage complet, sur lequel je fais très attention à ne rien brusquer, surtout les nappes souples de câbles... rien n'a changé. Toujours pareil. Zut.
Je reviens donc sur ce que j'identifie comme l'endroit où se gèrent les commandes du plateau et du moteur, le dénommé U491 qui doit être si on en croit la légende, un CI µPD75212ACW (NEC 4-BIT single-chip microcomputer DIP 64 pins). A priori si c'est lui le coupable (pourquoi ? surtension ? vieillissement ? condensateur de découplage HS ?), pas de problème pour le changer. On en trouve sur eBay à des prix variables, a priori estampillés NEC.
Mais sur la notice d'assemblage officielle Wadia, qui indique comment monter le PCB Servo TEAC et la mécanique associée CMK 3,2, il est très clairement écrit : the Teac mechanism must match the servo board. Et en effet, le n° porté sur la mécanique de mon W16 est exactement le même que celui porté sur le CI µPD75212ACW. Ce CI est-il programmé en fonction de la mécanique associée ? Un échange standard du CI ne serait donc pas fonctionnel ? sur toutes les fonctions ou seulement sur une partie ? Comment savoir ?
Je crois que je vais essayer, après avoir démonté le PCB servo-board (donc quasiment démonté toute la partie gauche du Wadia 16 et le fond...), de dessouder le CI NEC. De souder un adaptateur de bonne qualité DIP 64 pins. Et d'essayer ensuite d'y mettre le fameux µPD75212ACW que j'aurais acheté sur eBay (pas trouvé ailleurs cette référence). On verra bien. J'aurais quand même pensé en même temps à vérifier les condensateurs autour, voire l'oscillateur. On verra bien.
Je vous tiens au courant. Et j'ajouterai quelques photos, c'est plus parlant.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
for interested English speakers
I am trying to understand the nature of the problem with my Wadia 16 which I summarize below:
For years everything worked fine (even very well), until one day the "disk" commands stopped working.
Symptoms:
[/ B]
If there is a disc in the machine, and that I turn the player on, then playback starts and goes till the end of the disc, without any problem.
But :
No tray or motor control is working (Stop / Play / Skip / Search / Index / Pause / Open / Close etc ...), either via the remote control or directly on the front (Play / Open 2 buttons).
Every other function of the remote work (volume, source, display on-off, input, mute, insert. The Pause led lights up but it is not paused), so I eliminate a problem on the remote control or on the IR receiver [/ B].
Upon disassembly (almost complete), I did not observe any sign of overheating or oxidation, neither on the Wadia Audio/DAC circuit (the one above, visible when opening the top cover), nor on the Servo PCB Teac (the one below, which requires removing the PCB from above to be accessible). The Key PCB (as described on the pdf of the Teac diagram), i.e. the display PCB - among others) showed some traces of oxidation on the JP1 and JP2 connectors - not sure that the contacts were perfect , therefore deep cleaning. To dismantle this card, it is not just removing 3 screws ... you have to take out the entire front panel. it is feasible but you have to plan an hour anyway.
So I resume. At first I naively thought that the responsible IC could (read: could) be the MAX7219 (which is, as the datasheet says, an 8-Digit LED Display Driver) which happens to be the IC present on the Key PCB. On the Teac notice (of the VRDS T1 or of the VRDS 10 or of the VRDS 25), this IC is supposed to be a µPD7566. Perhaps this is the case on the TEACs but not on the Wadia, which must have its own display card ... But if this MAX7219 is a Led Display driver (and it is for sure), little chance so that it is in connection with the commands of the CD.
So, I come back to the schematics available from TEAC (10 and 25 which best match the Wadia 16, Teac CMK 3.2 mechanics / Sony KSS151A laser). This display module is connected by cables to the DAC PCB and to the Servo PCB.
While reassembling the whole, I realize that one of the wires which connects the Servo card to the mechanics (orange wire which connects the P405 connector of the Servo card to the Teac mechanics) is like "crushed". Or as if he got hot and his sheath "melted". Not easy to test for continuity but it hangs by a wire or two. When in doubt I cut, solder and sheath. The location of this fault on the wire is approximately near capacks for reading, and ready to hear from inspired readers!
Hi Perelman, the exact same problem with my 16. Did you try to change U491 µPD75212ACW or something else ?Wadia 16 CD commands don't work...
English translation below
Bonjour Pierre,
je suis en train d'essayer de comprendre la nature du problème de mon Wadia 16 que je résume ci-dessous :
Pendant des années, tout fonctionne bien (très bien même), jusqu'à un jour où les commandes "disque" ont arrêté de fonctionner.
Symptômes :
S'il y a un disque dans la machine, et que j'allume la machine, alors la lecture démarre, et va jusqu'à la fin du disque, sans aucun problème.
Mais :
Aucune commande du plateau ne fonctionne (Stop/Play/Skip/Search/Index/Pause/Open/Close etc...), que ce soit via la télécommande ou directement en façade (2 boutons Play/Open).
Les autres fonctions de la télécommande fonctionnent (volume, source, display on-off, input, mute, insert. La led Pause s'allume mais il n'est pas en pause), donc j'élimine un problème sur la télécommande ou sur le récepteur IR.
Au démontage (presque complet), je n'observe aucun signe de surchauffe ou d'oxydation, ni sur le circuit de conversion DAC Wadia (celui du dessus, visible dès l'ouverture du capot supérieur), ni sur le Servo PCB Teac (celui du dessous, qui nécessite pour être accessible de démonter le PCB du dessus). Le Key PCB (tel que décrit sur le pdf du schéma Teac), c'est à dire le PCB de l'afficheur - entre autres) présentait quelques traces d'oxydation sur les connecteurs JP1 et JP2, pas sûr que les contacts étaient parfaits, donc nettoyage. Pour le démontage de cette carte, ce n'est pas seulement retirer 3 vis... il faut sortir toute la façade avant. ça se fait mais il faut prévoir une petite heure quand même.
Donc je reprends. Au début je pensais naïvement que le CI responsable pouvait (pouvait) être le MAX7219 (qui est comme le dit le datasheet, un 8-Digit LED Display Driver) qui se trouve être le CI présent sur le Key PCB. Sur la notice Teac (du VRDS T1 ou du VRDS 10 ou du VRDS 25), ce CI est censé être un µPD7566. Peut-être est-ce le cas sur les TEAC mais pas sur le Wadia, qui doit bénéficier de sa propre carte d'affichage... Mais si ce MAX7219 est un Led Display driver (et il l'est), peu de chances pour que ce soit en lien avec les commandes du CD.
Donc, je reviens sur les schematics disponibles chez TEAC (10 et 25 qui correspondent le mieux au Wadia 16, mécanique Teac CMK 3,2 / laser Sony KSS151A). Ce module d'affichage est relié par des nappes à la carte DAC et à la carte Servo.
En remontant le tout, je m'aperçois que l'un des fils qui relie la carte Servo à la mécanique (fil orange qui relie le connecteur P405 de la carte Servo à la mécanique Teac) est comme "écrasé". Ou comme s'il avait pris un coup de chaud et que sa gaine ait "fondu". Pas facile de tester la continuité mais elle ne tient qu'à un fil. Dans le doute je coupe, soude et gaine. L'endroit de ce défaut sur le fil se situe environ au niveau du condensateur C491 sur le PCB Servo. Aurait-il chauffé et fondu partiellement la gaine ? je ne le saurai pas tout de suite, puisque je pense à cet instant avoir compris l'origine de la panne. Funeste erreur, après remontage complet, sur lequel je fais très attention à ne rien brusquer, surtout les nappes souples de câbles... rien n'a changé. Toujours pareil. Zut.
Je reviens donc sur ce que j'identifie comme l'endroit où se gèrent les commandes du plateau et du moteur, le dénommé U491 qui doit être si on en croit la légende, un CI µPD75212ACW (NEC 4-BIT single-chip microcomputer DIP 64 pins). A priori si c'est lui le coupable (pourquoi ? surtension ? vieillissement ? condensateur de découplage HS ?), pas de problème pour le changer. On en trouve sur eBay à des prix variables, a priori estampillés NEC.
Mais sur la notice d'assemblage officielle Wadia, qui indique comment monter le PCB Servo TEAC et la mécanique associée CMK 3,2, il est très clairement écrit : the Teac mechanism must match the servo board. Et en effet, le n° porté sur la mécanique de mon W16 est exactement le même que celui porté sur le CI µPD75212ACW. Ce CI est-il programmé en fonction de la mécanique associée ? Un échange standard du CI ne serait donc pas fonctionnel ? sur toutes les fonctions ou seulement sur une partie ? Comment savoir ?
Je crois que je vais essayer, après avoir démonté le PCB servo-board (donc quasiment démonté toute la partie gauche du Wadia 16 et le fond...), de dessouder le CI NEC. De souder un adaptateur de bonne qualité DIP 64 pins. Et d'essayer ensuite d'y mettre le fameux µPD75212ACW que j'aurais acheté sur eBay (pas trouvé ailleurs cette référence). On verra bien. J'aurais quand même pensé en même temps à vérifier les condensateurs autour, voire l'oscillateur. On verra bien.
Je vous tiens au courant. Et j'ajouterai quelques photos, c'est plus parlant.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
for interested English speakers
I am trying to understand the nature of the problem with my Wadia 16 which I summarize below:
For years everything worked fine (even very well), until one day the "disk" commands stopped working.
Symptoms:
[/ B]
If there is a disc in the machine, and that I turn the player on, then playback starts and goes till the end of the disc, without any problem.
But :
No tray or motor control is working (Stop / Play / Skip / Search / Index / Pause / Open / Close etc ...), either via the remote control or directly on the front (Play / Open 2 buttons).
Every other function of the remote work (volume, source, display on-off, input, mute, insert. The Pause led lights up but it is not paused), so I eliminate a problem on the remote control or on the IR receiver [/ B].
Upon disassembly (almost complete), I did not observe any sign of overheating or oxidation, neither on the Wadia Audio/DAC circuit (the one above, visible when opening the top cover), nor on the Servo PCB Teac (the one below, which requires removing the PCB from above to be accessible). The Key PCB (as described on the pdf of the Teac diagram), i.e. the display PCB - among others) showed some traces of oxidation on the JP1 and JP2 connectors - not sure that the contacts were perfect , therefore deep cleaning. To dismantle this card, it is not just removing 3 screws ... you have to take out the entire front panel. it is feasible but you have to plan an hour anyway.
So I resume. At first I naively thought that the responsible IC could (read: could) be the MAX7219 (which is, as the datasheet says, an 8-Digit LED Display Driver) which happens to be the IC present on the Key PCB. On the Teac notice (of the VRDS T1 or of the VRDS 10 or of the VRDS 25), this IC is supposed to be a µPD7566. Perhaps this is the case on the TEACs but not on the Wadia, which must have its own display card ... But if this MAX7219 is a Led Display driver (and it is for sure), little chance so that it is in connection with the commands of the CD.
So, I come back to the schematics available from TEAC (10 and 25 which best match the Wadia 16, Teac CMK 3.2 mechanics / Sony KSS151A laser). This display module is connected by cables to the DAC PCB and to the Servo PCB.
While reassembling the whole, I realize that one of the wires which connects the Servo card to the mechanics (orange wire which connects the P405 connector of the Servo card to the Teac mechanics) is like "crushed". Or as if he got hot and his sheath "melted". Not easy to test for continuity but it hangs by a wire or two. When in doubt I cut, solder and sheath. The location of this fault on the wire is approximately near capacitor C491 on the Servo PCB. Would it have partially heated and melted the sheath? I won't know right away, since I think - at that moment - that I had found the origin of the failure. How wrong, after complete reassembly, on which I am very careful not to rush anything, especially the flexible layers of cables ... nothing has changed. Always the same. Damn.
So I come back to what I identify as the place where the plate and motor controls are managed, the so-called U491 which must be, if we are to believe the legend, a µPD75212ACW IC (NEC 4-BIT single-chip microcomputer DIP 64 pins). A priori if this IC is the culprit (why? Overvoltage? Aging? Decoupling capacitor HS?), no problem to change it. They can be found on eBay at variable prices, a priori stamped NEC.
But on the official Wadia assembly instructions, which shows how to assemble the TEAC Servo PCB and associated CMK 3.2 mechanics, it is very clearly written: the Teac mechanism must match the servo board. And indeed, the number on the mechanics of my W16 is exactly the same as the one on the µPD75212ACW IC. Is this IC programmed according to the associated mechanics? A standard IC exchange would therefore not be functional? on all functions or only on a part? How to know ?
I think that I will try, after having dismantled the servo-board PCB (thus almost dismantled all the left part of the Wadia 16 and the bottom ...), to unsolder the NEC IC. Solder a good quality 64 pin DIP adapter. And then try to put the famous µPD75212ACW that I would have bought on eBay (not found this reference elsewhere). We'll see. I would still have thought at the same time to check the capacitors around, or even the oscillator. We'll see.
I'll keep you informed. And I will add some photos, it's more meaningful.
Thanks for reading, and ready to hear from inspired readers!
@pedro, yes copper millimetric foils on chips, I can see that in some expensive pieces... Some experts say it's no use without being connected to earth, as I read in different places.
@erdimeter: OK, you say the same problem exactly. I'm glad we are two (sorry to say that...😉 which means it's something that can happen.
Did you notice something particular between the moment it was working and the moment it was not working anymore? some kind of surge, heat, or power cut?
To answer your question, no I haven't changed U491 yet. I've got one in case I'd need to try, but I'd like to check other components before, like I said in a post before. First, measure the tensions on some pins of the chip. And if they are not what they should be, investigate where it can come from.
I wonder if this µPD75212ACW can be replaced without programming the prom. I fear not. That's why I want to check if it is really defective before trying to replace it.
@erdimeter: OK, you say the same problem exactly. I'm glad we are two (sorry to say that...😉 which means it's something that can happen.
Did you notice something particular between the moment it was working and the moment it was not working anymore? some kind of surge, heat, or power cut?
To answer your question, no I haven't changed U491 yet. I've got one in case I'd need to try, but I'd like to check other components before, like I said in a post before. First, measure the tensions on some pins of the chip. And if they are not what they should be, investigate where it can come from.
I wonder if this µPD75212ACW can be replaced without programming the prom. I fear not. That's why I want to check if it is really defective before trying to replace it.
Regarding this problem with the cd controls i will try to get some info from a guy that work with Teac/Esoteric products.
you're right! but I don't know if Teac improves really the sound with this trick >0)Indeed @perelman you have different approaches on that cooper thing.
The ones I’m talking are also in your picture of your teac servo board 😉
It would be interesting to have some information from him, certainly. This problem must not be common but it seems we are two facing it. Thanks if you can ask!Regarding this problem with the cd controls i will try to get some info from a guy that work with Teac/Esoteric products.
good evening
Hi erdimeter, which ribbon cable are you talking about? there are two at the front (near the faceplate), one connecting the servo to the DAC board, one connecting the DAC to the display (faceplate). There is one on the left side (facing the device), connecting servo and DAC PCBs, and one on the right side of the DAC PCB connecting to the PSU. As far as I can remember. Which is the one you would suspect to be wrong-sided?
But as you say, if the player plays the disc, it seems unlikely that a ribbon cable would be reverse positioned.
@perelman I bought it second hand from my partner and there wasn't any reaction before no servo operation failure, suddenly it was happened. By the way all the tests are ok related UPD IC(power voltages, clock freq,) All I have to do find a chip and replace it but I'm afraid there is software on the IC according to the product(cd, tuner, various componenet systems)@pedro, yes copper millimetric foils on chips, I can see that in some expensive pieces... Some experts say it's no use without being connected to earth, as I read in different places.
@erdimeter: OK, you say the same problem exactly. I'm glad we are two (sorry to say that...😉 which means it's something that can happen.
Did you notice something particular between the moment it was working and the moment it was not working anymore? some kind of surge, heat, or power cut?
To answer your question, no I haven't changed U491 yet. I've got one in case I'd need to try, but I'd like to check other components before, like I said in a post before. First, measure the tensions on some pins of the chip. And if they are not what they should be, investigate where it can come from.
I wonder if this µPD75212ACW can be replaced without programming the prom. I fear not. That's why I want to check if it is really defective before trying to replace it.
@erdimeter, you mean that U491 is fed normally? You mean VDD on pin 64 is at around 5V? What about the voltage at the cathode of Z403?
I just checked C491 on mine, which was OK. I forget C492, but I'd be surprised if it was defective.
Here is a detail of the recommended schematics you can find on the µPD75212ACW datasheet:
Chips rarely fail on their own. If the µPD75212ACW is defective, something has got into it (first thing I think of is a surge). I would be surprised that all of a sudden, both on your W16 and mine, it stops working. That is why I would suspect another component first. Then, I concede it's mainly because if it's the chip, it would certainly have to be reprogrammed to original specs. And this is far beyond my poor skills!
I just checked C491 on mine, which was OK. I forget C492, but I'd be surprised if it was defective.
Here is a detail of the recommended schematics you can find on the µPD75212ACW datasheet:
Chips rarely fail on their own. If the µPD75212ACW is defective, something has got into it (first thing I think of is a surge). I would be surprised that all of a sudden, both on your W16 and mine, it stops working. That is why I would suspect another component first. Then, I concede it's mainly because if it's the chip, it would certainly have to be reprogrammed to original specs. And this is far beyond my poor skills!
If I understand the datasheet, I see that VDD should be no more than 7V. Am I right?
If you measure tension on pin 64 at 8,2V, it might be too much... What are other tensions on pins, and do they change if you press the servo commands on your remote (play/pause/open/close etc)
Sorry I can't measure this right now, can't put the W16 on the bench right now... too messy at present.
Maybe we need some external advice to clear that point? (let's be patient 😉
If you measure tension on pin 64 at 8,2V, it might be too much... What are other tensions on pins, and do they change if you press the servo commands on your remote (play/pause/open/close etc)
Sorry I can't measure this right now, can't put the W16 on the bench right now... too messy at present.
Maybe we need some external advice to clear that point? (let's be patient 😉
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