Where can i buy the pcb mount jack 6.5mm connector?
and i have still other parts that i dont know which to buy. for example the 2 yellow ceramic caps which brand and stats?
and i have still other parts that i dont know which to buy. for example the 2 yellow ceramic caps which brand and stats?
ok, cleve i checked the list that you gave me and put things. tell if it is everything correct.
and there are 3 question marks that i wasnt sure what to put on.
and there are 3 question marks that i wasnt sure what to put on.
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cleve is the resistors is 1/4 and only 2 is 1w. i want better resistors than vishay, the wiam is better than epocos. look at hificollective
Resistors | Hifi Collective
there are plenty of resistors but most of them start with 0.5w can i put higher ones. i want some good quality resistors. i want the amp will be good.
Resistors | Hifi Collective
there are plenty of resistors but most of them start with 0.5w can i put higher ones. i want some good quality resistors. i want the amp will be good.
If you continue on this path I fear I wouldn't be able to help you...you're missing completely the point.
- You MUST use adequate wattage rating resistors, or your amp will blow in you face
- Vishay makes among the finest resistors in the world (both measuring and listenting)
- Most 'audiophile' resistors are nicely coloured, they don't sound better.
And no, you can't use them in place of MBE0414, they're rated only 1/8W...
BTW if you really want to use a resistor stocked by HiFi Collective use Kiwame 2W, they will fit perfectly and sound great (a bit coloured of course but in a nice way)
Not all Wimas are that good, quite all metallized caps are overly coloured, the only really excellent product they make are FKP2 (film/foil, not metallized).
Wima MKP10 are quite good too but the Epcos used by Lehmann are not worse in that position (more neutral, though).
BTW you asked me if your pic interpreted correctly my BOM, which doesn't indicate MKP10s.
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thnx, i will consider all this, sure i will use 1/8 for all and only 3 1w.
little question about mount pcb to the chasis, what is the righ size?
i want to buy spacers from here but i dont know which size 8/10/12/15 etc...
10pc M3 8mm 45mm CNC Hex Aluminum Alloy Standoff Spacer Studs Fastener Pillars | eBay
so, which size will fit?
i suppuse if the size will not fit the holes of the front volume pot and pcb jack will not align.
little question about mount pcb to the chasis, what is the righ size?
i want to buy spacers from here but i dont know which size 8/10/12/15 etc...
10pc M3 8mm 45mm CNC Hex Aluminum Alloy Standoff Spacer Studs Fastener Pillars | eBay
so, which size will fit?
i suppuse if the size will not fit the holes of the front volume pot and pcb jack will not align.
It depends on the chassis you will buy, there are 2 or 3 types...
I've buyed two types and they were different in eight and internal size.
At the end I've kept this one which was better manifactured and it included spacers bonded to the chassis.
If I remember correctly also the other one included spacers (to be mounted).
OK, My amp is working now. 😀😀
With the OPA2134PA, offset is 1,4mV and 0,54mV and I haven´t noises. The sound is nice, very spacious and detail.
Now I want to replacement the wima 0,1uF caps (I have the diode mod). Andreas told me that I can use low ESR cap. OK, I have a pair of Sanyo/Oscom 10uF/25V that I think it´s be right for this position. 😕😕 If it´s necessary, I have tantalum caps but I would like check the Sanyo before.
Them I replacement the Nichicon Gold Tune for Mundorf Mlytic on the PSU.
With the OPA2134PA, offset is 1,4mV and 0,54mV and I haven´t noises. The sound is nice, very spacious and detail.
Now I want to replacement the wima 0,1uF caps (I have the diode mod). Andreas told me that I can use low ESR cap. OK, I have a pair of Sanyo/Oscom 10uF/25V that I think it´s be right for this position. 😕😕 If it´s necessary, I have tantalum caps but I would like check the Sanyo before.
Them I replacement the Nichicon Gold Tune for Mundorf Mlytic on the PSU.
Congrats!
Yes, use the Sanyo, nothing can happen provided that you don´t confuse the poles of the electrolytics.😉
Well, among all builds going on here, I finally got around to tinkering with the BCL clone again.
I drilled and tapped new holes in some heatsinks I had that won't fit the PCB if not raised a bit. I'll add glue (heat tolerant) to the "clips" holding the heatsinks together. They stay in place fine without them, but it doesn't hurt to take extra care nothing goes wrong.
I also swapped heatsinks for the vregs, I had to modify those slightly as well.
Jumpered the position for "switching" HP jack if I want to use this as a preamp only.
Looking at the board, I'm considering swapping the NCC PS caps for Panasonic ha's 10.000uF/50V(63V? I don't remember now). I have some unused ones laying around.
Edit: I also have some never used Nover that came with a faulty TA2022 BTL board. No clue if they are legit though. The Panasonic TSU's are more for fun, overkill and not high enough Voltage rating.
I drilled and tapped new holes in some heatsinks I had that won't fit the PCB if not raised a bit. I'll add glue (heat tolerant) to the "clips" holding the heatsinks together. They stay in place fine without them, but it doesn't hurt to take extra care nothing goes wrong.
I also swapped heatsinks for the vregs, I had to modify those slightly as well.
Jumpered the position for "switching" HP jack if I want to use this as a preamp only.
Looking at the board, I'm considering swapping the NCC PS caps for Panasonic ha's 10.000uF/50V(63V? I don't remember now). I have some unused ones laying around.
Edit: I also have some never used Nover that came with a faulty TA2022 BTL board. No clue if they are legit though. The Panasonic TSU's are more for fun, overkill and not high enough Voltage rating.
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Sorry Mayday but a single heatsink piece isn't a better option?... like this:
I'm sure it is, and I looked to see if I had any that fit the bill. I didn't so I went with what I had 🙂
Well, it works and the heatsinks doesn't even get moderatly warm.
DC offset is +9.9mVdc, equal on both channels when warmed up for 10min or so..seems to stay around there.. It starts of lower strangely enough.
It also spikes a bit at power off... I do have a HP protection board assembled somewhere though.
I did the capacitor and zener mod while tinkering with the board.
I used BC 10uF/63V for the vregs.
I put some caps on the bottom of the board as well.
Under each PS cap (6800uF) I put:
3.3uF Pana FC
0.22uF Pana FM
100nF BC MKP
I put in an OPA2132 as I didn't have the energy to sort through my OPA2134, I know one or two of them are busted and they got mixed in with the good ones.
These boards are not the greatest quality tbh. I have a ton of experience with desoldering and rarely lift islands etc, I almost did that on this board though.
Sorry about the bad pic.
DC offset is +9.9mVdc, equal on both channels when warmed up for 10min or so..seems to stay around there.. It starts of lower strangely enough.
It also spikes a bit at power off... I do have a HP protection board assembled somewhere though.
I did the capacitor and zener mod while tinkering with the board.
I used BC 10uF/63V for the vregs.
I put some caps on the bottom of the board as well.
Under each PS cap (6800uF) I put:
3.3uF Pana FC
0.22uF Pana FM
100nF BC MKP
I put in an OPA2132 as I didn't have the energy to sort through my OPA2134, I know one or two of them are busted and they got mixed in with the good ones.
These boards are not the greatest quality tbh. I have a ton of experience with desoldering and rarely lift islands etc, I almost did that on this board though.
Sorry about the bad pic.
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Yesterday I was listening my amp with the "biasing A". I used a pair of 4,7K resistors and the OPA 2134AP.
Well, this option is interesting but I don´t like the sound. I think that the sound of this amp is "hot" but with the modding is more "hotter" and loses definition. I prefer the standard configuration with the single OPA.
My amp always work with low Offset values. Max 2mVolt.
I matched 550/560, 139/140 and all resistors but I guess that i have a good lot of OPA2134AP (I bought on Mouser)
Well, this option is interesting but I don´t like the sound. I think that the sound of this amp is "hot" but with the modding is more "hotter" and loses definition. I prefer the standard configuration with the single OPA.
My amp always work with low Offset values. Max 2mVolt.
I matched 550/560, 139/140 and all resistors but I guess that i have a good lot of OPA2134AP (I bought on Mouser)
From what I've read there are not all that many opamps that are stable in this circuit. I haven't simulated it though.
I do have OPA2134's that are fine, I need to go through them to sort out the one or two duds though.
I also have (amongst others)
OPA2111KP
OPA2604
OPA604
OPA2107
OP275
OP282
LME49720
LME47910
LM4562
LT1360
LT1028
OPA1652
LT1112
LT1077
AD8066
AD825
AD817
AD8616
OPA627(au)
A bunch of adapters for single to double.
I never got below 10mVdc offset on the previous, now dead, board I had...except when using a diy discrete opamp.
That opamp is jfet based with an adjustable CCS per channel.
I do have OPA2134's that are fine, I need to go through them to sort out the one or two duds though.
I also have (amongst others)
OPA2111KP
OPA2604
OPA604
OPA2107
OP275
OP282
LME49720
LME47910
LM4562
LT1360
LT1028
OPA1652
LT1112
LT1077
AD8066
AD825
AD817
AD8616
OPA627(au)
A bunch of adapters for single to double.
I never got below 10mVdc offset on the previous, now dead, board I had...except when using a diy discrete opamp.
That opamp is jfet based with an adjustable CCS per channel.
Hi,
I found this Biasing op-amps into Class A? | Electronics Forum (Circuits, Projects and Microcontrollers)
and a discussion on this forum http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/54768-class-opamps.html
maybe it helps