For future reference, try searching with octopart (i.e.: https://octopart.com/) and put in the part number to search a large number of parts sources for
493-15476-ND. I just checked and all of the suppliers it searches came up with zip with long lead times.
Basically any reasonable specified electrolytic in 1000uF @ 25V will work just fine, at least to get the circuit to work so you can try things out. I am sure @Nelson Pass can tell us, but I'd suspect that the cap was chosen because it met the specs and he had them in stock in his lab.
In any event, I'd encourage you to actually try some different ones that are at least 1000uF@25V and measure and listen to the results for yourself. It was eye-opening to me when I first started doing this years ago at where certain types of caps matter and where they don't, but I won't open that can of worms here.
The UKW mentioned above is great, as is UKA1E102MPD1TD but you don't have to stick with UKWs or even Nichicons. There are Panasonic FMs, Kemets, CDLs and others that are fantastic in this spot too. The 4 most important parameters to look for in an alternate are: capacitance of course (1000uF), lead spacing (5mm) - so that it fits the holes and the diameter of the leads fit the holes, diameter (10mm) - so that it fits on the board but here you can get a little creative depending on your target form factor, and finally max voltage (25V). For example, I've taken axial bypass/coupling caps and stood them on their side with some RTV to stick them to the board (and insulated the exposed leads). It doesn't look pretty, but it works.
Note that most of these top-shelf caps have derating values for their specifications, meaning that the 25V rating on the sleeve can be exceeded by x%V for y seconds/minutes before any issues. What that means it that you can technically go with a lower voltage cap and be within tolerances, but pay close attention these parameters and how they behave/measure out at the lower voltages because this is one of those areas where things do vary between brands/models. Besides that you can choose caps that for example, have higher voltage or temperature ratings with the same capacitance without any loss of functionality in this circuit as long as they fit. For example, its fine to use these 35V-rated UKTs as they are still 100uF and 5mm spacing albeit a little bit larger in diameter/length:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UKT1V102MHD?qs=kArNe9LFxXlfyKZmhWm0tw==
Even caps with lower temp ratings are likely fine in this circuit, and all higher ratings will buy you is longer life span of the caps.
Hope that helps more than it confuses!
Cheers,
--Tom
493-15476-ND. I just checked and all of the suppliers it searches came up with zip with long lead times.
Basically any reasonable specified electrolytic in 1000uF @ 25V will work just fine, at least to get the circuit to work so you can try things out. I am sure @Nelson Pass can tell us, but I'd suspect that the cap was chosen because it met the specs and he had them in stock in his lab.
In any event, I'd encourage you to actually try some different ones that are at least 1000uF@25V and measure and listen to the results for yourself. It was eye-opening to me when I first started doing this years ago at where certain types of caps matter and where they don't, but I won't open that can of worms here.The UKW mentioned above is great, as is UKA1E102MPD1TD but you don't have to stick with UKWs or even Nichicons. There are Panasonic FMs, Kemets, CDLs and others that are fantastic in this spot too. The 4 most important parameters to look for in an alternate are: capacitance of course (1000uF), lead spacing (5mm) - so that it fits the holes and the diameter of the leads fit the holes, diameter (10mm) - so that it fits on the board but here you can get a little creative depending on your target form factor, and finally max voltage (25V). For example, I've taken axial bypass/coupling caps and stood them on their side with some RTV to stick them to the board (and insulated the exposed leads). It doesn't look pretty, but it works.
Note that most of these top-shelf caps have derating values for their specifications, meaning that the 25V rating on the sleeve can be exceeded by x%V for y seconds/minutes before any issues. What that means it that you can technically go with a lower voltage cap and be within tolerances, but pay close attention these parameters and how they behave/measure out at the lower voltages because this is one of those areas where things do vary between brands/models. Besides that you can choose caps that for example, have higher voltage or temperature ratings with the same capacitance without any loss of functionality in this circuit as long as they fit. For example, its fine to use these 35V-rated UKTs as they are still 100uF and 5mm spacing albeit a little bit larger in diameter/length:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UKT1V102MHD?qs=kArNe9LFxXlfyKZmhWm0tw==
Even caps with lower temp ratings are likely fine in this circuit, and all higher ratings will buy you is longer life span of the caps.
Hope that helps more than it confuses!
Cheers,
--Tom
Hi all,
I need a 5v output to properly attack my amplifier.
Maybe I can take advantage of the inclusion of an OAMP that inverts the signal and also manages this signal level, the ultimate goal would be to use it as a Buffer without gain.
I hope I have explained myself correctly, my technical level is very low.
Thanks
I need a 5v output to properly attack my amplifier.
Maybe I can take advantage of the inclusion of an OAMP that inverts the signal and also manages this signal level, the ultimate goal would be to use it as a Buffer without gain.
I hope I have explained myself correctly, my technical level is very low.
Thanks
I'd start by explaining why you need this? This is a very weird and obscure requirement in my experience.
Thanks @HumbleDeer
I have an IcePower 1200AS2 amplifier, I have thought about adding the H2 V2 to it.
I want to avoid twisting the speaker wires, so I'm going to try installing an oamp in inverter mode on the output.
This amp requires 5v of signal at the input, it would be nice if the H2 V2 could handle with gain 1, that signal level, at the input, and at the output.
Is this possible with the current design?
Or should I adjust some components of the original?
Edu
I have an IcePower 1200AS2 amplifier, I have thought about adding the H2 V2 to it.
I want to avoid twisting the speaker wires, so I'm going to try installing an oamp in inverter mode on the output.
This amp requires 5v of signal at the input, it would be nice if the H2 V2 could handle with gain 1, that signal level, at the input, and at the output.
Is this possible with the current design?
Or should I adjust some components of the original?
Edu
Lots of pertinent information in Nelson's original article (attached below).
Included is the distortion relative to voltage output. Note that at 2V, the distortion is very high. 5V is not attainable.
I looked up the specifications of your IcePower amplifier module. The voltage gain is specified as 25.8dB. Why do you need 5V input?
Included is the distortion relative to voltage output. Note that at 2V, the distortion is very high. 5V is not attainable.
I looked up the specifications of your IcePower amplifier module. The voltage gain is specified as 25.8dB. Why do you need 5V input?
Then the H2 is kept intact, and the gain would be obtained on the inverting oamp, this conditions the current input level to 2v, but I can add this as a switchable option to the current 5v direct input. I like this approach.
This amp accepts balanced input, I have thought about using a That1200 instead of an oamp to the H2 output, I think if I reverse the balanced output I could easily get the phase shift needed to avoid changing speaker cables.
This amp accepts balanced input, I have thought about using a That1200 instead of an oamp to the H2 output, I think if I reverse the balanced output I could easily get the phase shift needed to avoid changing speaker cables.
just to clarify it again:
you don't need 5v input unless you're running an actual RMS power of 1200w at the time of said signal.
I suppose that's the beauty of the things you design. They're only perfect when they're to taste. So adjust as you like!
You're not wrong, but I like the idea of keeping the connection standard, it's a bit of work now, but for the rest of its existence it won't be necessary to think about the "trick" of reversing the usual wiring, even when used by someone else.
On the other hand, I prefer to tackle the input in a balanced way, I have tried unbalanced and it works fine, but I want to have both inputs, a balanced one direct to the amp, and a single-ended one that can be switched by the H2 and then matched to the balanced input as much as possible.
Adding the That1200 circuit should not be a decrease in quality.
Thanks HumbleDeer,
I think I understand what you are saying (English is not my language and I am not good at it).
I want to meet the specs of the amp, I don't need full power (at least at this moment) but I think it's good to have the full volume range from 0v to 5v.
Hello All. I am new to building my own circuits and DIY Audio. I am going make my first build an H2. I will have a lot of stupid questions but here goes my first one. I am searching for a power supply. From what I can tell from the forum I need a 12V switching supply with 1 AMP. So 12 W total. On the Triad Magnetics website there are many different types. Some with Negative Polarity Center and some with Positive. What does that mean and which one do I want? Product codes are WSU120-1000, WSU120-1000 R, WSU120-1000 13, WSU120-1000 13R. Can't figure out what the 13 stands for and what is different about it.
Thanks in advance.
Tom
Thanks in advance.
Tom
A 12V 1A (12W) power supply would be way overkill for this circuit. Using the schematic and knowing that the voltages at T2 and T1 are ~10.5V and ~4.50V, respectively, and that R3 is 221Ω, the current draw on that leg (and therefore the power supply itself) can be calculated and it is only about 27mA. Hence even a 12V supply rated at 100mA (or about 1W) would be plenty.
Unless you are adding a barrel jack connector on your H2 V2 board, you don't need to worry about the polarity of the supply as you will cut the barrel connector off the cord coming from the supply and solder the +12V and 0V wires directly to the H2 V2 board.
Unless you are adding a barrel jack connector on your H2 V2 board, you don't need to worry about the polarity of the supply as you will cut the barrel connector off the cord coming from the supply and solder the +12V and 0V wires directly to the H2 V2 board.
Hello Northpaw, thank you for the information. My initial thought was to put the board in a box with a female barrel jack attached to a hole in the box. I would wire the female barrel jack to the board with wires but I would still plug the power supply into the barrel jack in the box. This way I could unplug the power line from the box. Does that make sense? So back to my original question about polarity. I guess with your method I just drill a little hole through the box and run the wires in without the barrel? But they would not be removable.
You can use a barrel connector on the box if you wish, it still doesn't matter as to the polarity because you can solder either of the two wires coming out of your box-mounted barrel connector to the proper solder pad on the PCB (this does assume the collar on the barrel jack does not get grounded through the case). But if you want to keep it all straight, get a center+ supply.
Don't overlook the possibility that you might have an unused 12V wall wart hanging around (e.g., from an old land-line wireless phone, etc.) that can be used. I myself placed the H2 V2 into an old DVD player chassis, and picked off 12V from the player's existing power supply. There are lots of possibilities out there, given the very low power needed.
Don't overlook the possibility that you might have an unused 12V wall wart hanging around (e.g., from an old land-line wireless phone, etc.) that can be used. I myself placed the H2 V2 into an old DVD player chassis, and picked off 12V from the player's existing power supply. There are lots of possibilities out there, given the very low power needed.