Since this is DIY, is there any reason this could not be set up to run with a car audio amplifier? it should be able to grab 12 V off of the line that’s going to supply the power to the car audio amplifier so that does not seem like an issue.
One of the things that I would be interested in is obviously the changes in temperature with a vehicle being outside during both summer and winter possibly having an effect on the components.
Any thoughts or comments would greatly be appreciated.
One of the things that I would be interested in is obviously the changes in temperature with a vehicle being outside during both summer and winter possibly having an effect on the components.
Any thoughts or comments would greatly be appreciated.
The H2 is a voltage gain stage, so look at it like a lego block you can use in a variety of configurations. I am planning on using one as a clean "boost" stage in a guitar preamp I am working on, for example. So anywhere you might need one I'd say this could go assuming the parts are rated for the heat / ventilation situation it might experience and of course, its got a sufficient power feed. That is indeed part of the beauty of the DIY situation here.
--Tom
--Tom
Thanks Papa!
I love this little gem. I really enjoyed the build. This project really helped me to learn and appreciate gain and signal levels.
I added a P089zb to the power input following a 12v regulator. I used the regulator so that I can use a wide variety of the wall warts that I have; most are 24 VDC.
Once I had it up and running, I decided to add sockets to C1 so that I could try out a variety of different types of capacitors.
This was a blast to build and sounds wonderful in the pre-amp chain of an old Yamaha A/V receiver.
I love this little gem. I really enjoyed the build. This project really helped me to learn and appreciate gain and signal levels.
I added a P089zb to the power input following a 12v regulator. I used the regulator so that I can use a wide variety of the wall warts that I have; most are 24 VDC.
Once I had it up and running, I decided to add sockets to C1 so that I could try out a variety of different types of capacitors.
This was a blast to build and sounds wonderful in the pre-amp chain of an old Yamaha A/V receiver.
No measurements yet. I do have a scope, but no ADC to make FFTs. I am currently busy traveling for work, but I hope to put some more effort into this when I am back home. (Those of you who are road warriors may recognize some hotel furniture one of my pictures)
I started with some aluminum polymer caps after swapping the Muse BPs for the sockets. They may have sounded a little more analytical, but that is very subjective. I had those in for a few days before switching to some 16v Tantalum caps. I would say that the Tantalum caps are fuller sounding, it's hard to describe, but there is just "more" to the sound.
In all cases, I did have to readjust the operating point after swapping the capacitors.
I started with some aluminum polymer caps after swapping the Muse BPs for the sockets. They may have sounded a little more analytical, but that is very subjective. I had those in for a few days before switching to some 16v Tantalum caps. I would say that the Tantalum caps are fuller sounding, it's hard to describe, but there is just "more" to the sound.
In all cases, I did have to readjust the operating point after swapping the capacitors.
I definitely get less looks for working on audio projects in the hotel room compared to working on car projects in the hotel parking lot. But nothing beats working on audio projects for my car in the hotel parking lot, no one ever believes that I am installing as opposed to stealing something. 
