Frugel-Horn XL for Alpair 10.3/10p, Fostex FF165wk, more

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planet10

planet10

frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
planet10-hifi.com
Paid Member
Yes. Larger.

Woden Design | Blenheim

Blienheim-c-3D.gif


dave
 
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chrisb

Member
Joined 2002
Plans for those ones aren't shareware - assuming nominal 3/4" material, overall dimensions 77.25"H x 14" W x 19" D . Not a project for foam core, methinks - and would not be a delight to manipulate on the bench during the last couple of glue-up stages.

The elliptical supra-baffle could be considered aesthetic only.
 
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JoeyGS

Member
Joined 2007
Dear Dave,

I would be needing page 12 (4'x8' cut sheet) and page 13 (5'x5' cut sheet) as we are still awaiting the actual available size of birch ply in the Philippines.

As for the software, Aspire from Vectric is being used and is able to retrieve both DXF and DWG files.

Please send it thru my email: josephseverino@yahoo.com

Thanks and regards,
Joseph



planet10 said:
I can supply dxf files. Here is the boilerplate:

<boilerplate>
DXF or DWG files are easily exported from the CAD software, native format is Vectorworks. I need to know the page of the PDF you need, and the version of DXF/DWG that can be handled. (i do have a collection of already exported)

It should be noted that a CNC is only really useful for the sides and the driver rebate. Unless the CNC is 5-axis, you will still need to pass all the internal pieces thru a table saw -- it is quicker & easier to just do them all on a table saw. You could rough cut the other pieces but they still need to go thru a table saw to angle the ends.

The drawings all assume a 5 mm kerf, so the CNC operator would need to adjust for the larger kerf needed for CNC work. You/they will need to adjust for actual wood thickness as well.
</boilerplate>

dave
Click to expand...
 
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faithintruth

Member
Joined 2012
I have been contributing a bit here but after getting the FHXL plans, I have decided to go with the pencils. I think these will ultimately be more versatile in my room.

I can say that my A10p's are only at 35 hours of breaki-in but what a difference already. I can hear they are opening up and sounding a little more 3 dimensional. Can't wait for the 200 hour mark.

I have a couple of pencil questions but I will find another place to ask them.
 
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chrisb

Member
Joined 2002
For our own builds and kits- partly because of the scores of them every year- we use a cheapie little recessed cup with 5-way binding posts and plastic nuts. These mount in a 2" diameter hole, and terminals are on 3/4" centres, which makes for very easy connection and swapping when using Pomona or similar dual banana plugs. To keep the internal waiting as short as possible, we place these cups near the top of the slanted rear panel.

I've never been a big fan of mondo WBT, Cardas posts, nor of welding cable sized speaker wire - on either side of the speaker enclosure terminals. Also remember that the solder tabs on the Alpairs are press-fit into the composite cast frames, and that even if pre-tinned the amount of heat required to get a well flowed solder joint with internal wiring above, say #18 could soften the solder tab holder.
I generally use a single strand of #24 for internal wiring of all FR drivers, and so far nobody listening to any of them has complained, or claimed to be able to hear the "too thin wire getting in the way"

Feel free of course to use whatever suits your own practices
 
T

tipex

Member
Joined 2016
chrisb said:
For our own builds and kits- partly because of the scores of them every year- we use a cheapie little recessed cup with 5-way binding posts and plastic nuts. These mount in a 2" diameter hole, and terminals are on 3/4" centres, which makes for very easy connection and swapping when using Pomona or similar dual banana plugs. To keep the internal waiting as short as possible, we place these cups near the top of the slanted rear panel.

I've never been a big fan of mondo WBT, Cardas posts, nor of welding cable sized speaker wire - on either side of the speaker enclosure terminals. Also remember that the solder tabs on the Alpairs are press-fit into the composite cast frames, and that even if pre-tinned the amount of heat required to get a well flowed solder joint with internal wiring above, say #18 could soften the solder tab holder.
I generally use a single strand of #24 for internal wiring of all FR drivers, and so far nobody listening to any of them has complained, or claimed to be able to hear the "too thin wire getting in the way"

Feel free of course to use whatever suits your own practices
Click to expand...

Great!
Thank you very much chrisb:)
 
Z

zulk99

Member
Joined 2016
Hi there sorry if I derail this thread or anything, Ive been lurking in the net for quite a while and I have been interested in the frugal horn xl and mk3, I saw in a site where I have to donate 10 dollars for the planset, where should I make the donation ?

Also are there any kits for the Frugal horn mk3 ? TIA.

Please do excuse if I do break any of the thread rules as this is literally my first post in this site
 
Z

zman01

Member
Joined 2011
zulk99 said:
Hi there sorry if I derail this thread or anything, Ive been lurking in the net for quite a while and I have been interested in the frugal horn xl and mk3, I saw in a site where I have to donate 10 dollars for the planset, where should I make the donation ?

Also are there any kits for the Frugal horn mk3 ? TIA.

Please do excuse if I do break any of the thread rules as this is literally my first post in this site
Click to expand...

zulk99,

Welcome to diyAudio! :)

P10 does flat-packs for FH3. Not sure about FH-XL, cos those are on the bigger (and heavier side).

Shoot him an e-mail.
 
planet10

planet10

frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
planet10-hifi.com
Paid Member
For the FH3 i have had to do quotes for Singapore & various places in Europe… all to much $$$ for shipping so far.

It was interesting that for a quote to AbuDabi, from Canada was less than from the UK.

Flat-pak makers in Europe are in flux at the moment, and the maker in Australia has packed it in. Zulk, you might want to check with Zia about potential local makers.

The FH3 and FH-lite plans are free and directly downloadable from the plans page at frugal-horn.com. For the FHXL you need to email me your diyAudio donation for a minimum $10 and i will send you the plans URL.

dave
 
K

kevner1954

Member
Joined 2011
2 questions what size hole for the mark audio 10 driver on the baffle of the XL, not found on the plans or in the driver boxes , no paper work at all in the boxes, and should I cut to the next bigger size in the /32 " measurements of the plans , unable to determine if a 1/32 of an inch makes a difference????????
 
S

SCD

Member
Joined 2003
drawings vs reality
Hello Kevner1954:
When I work with drawings I always focus my attention on the interior dimensions. As Dave points out wood is not always the same thickness as the numbers on the drawings. The volumes and cross sections are what really counts in achieving the design goals.
So to re-enforce: the interior dimensions are what really counts
 
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