Yes, C45 or C55, or the A or DX variants for that matter. Could be interesting.
Regarding Apair 10x: I almost hate asking about personal driver preferences especially after many members have already voted for paper or metal. At least one member has changed their mind. Now with many more extant FHXL's than when this thread started, would anyone else like to change their minds about what they think of either the A10p or A10.3?
I ask this in light of the fact there is apparently a long break-in time of these drivers. Also relevant is the fact that some members having owned A10p's have gone and purchased A10.3's (and maybe vice versa).
Hypothetically speaking, if both of these drivers had the same sensitivity would the objective performance edge not be given to the 10.3's? ( "...digging deaper...", "...more top end sparkle..")
Dave, what do you mean when you say "vintage top end" when referring to your preference for the 10p's.
Any other comments, post 800hrs on the A10.3's?
I have only ever owned/built with paper but I'm ready to order either model for using in my new "Jazz Only" FHXL build.
Cheers
Sean
I ask this in light of the fact there is apparently a long break-in time of these drivers. Also relevant is the fact that some members having owned A10p's have gone and purchased A10.3's (and maybe vice versa).
Hypothetically speaking, if both of these drivers had the same sensitivity would the objective performance edge not be given to the 10.3's? ( "...digging deaper...", "...more top end sparkle..")
Dave, what do you mean when you say "vintage top end" when referring to your preference for the 10p's.
Any other comments, post 800hrs on the A10.3's?
I have only ever owned/built with paper but I'm ready to order either model for using in my new "Jazz Only" FHXL build.
Cheers
Sean
I have both A10's and from a use abuse perspective I think the papers are more robust.
I loaned a pair of metal MLTLs out and they came back with the cones literally shredded! They had definitely been over driven (playing warped records with no low filter and bass cranked, loudness on) I think the paper cones may have had more of chance of survival, maybe not?
That said I'm considering using the metal cones for some outdoor patio speakers.
Larry
I loaned a pair of metal MLTLs out and they came back with the cones literally shredded! They had definitely been over driven (playing warped records with no low filter and bass cranked, loudness on) I think the paper cones may have had more of chance of survival, maybe not?
That said I'm considering using the metal cones for some outdoor patio speakers.
Larry
Thanks Larry and Dave. I was going to build the FHLites with the FF85WK but I can get Mark Audio drivers dirt cheap. Ironically, I live closer to Japan than Hong Kong but Fostex is 50% or more the cost of back home.
I like the better efficiency of the 10p and I believe the numerous comments about the 10p bass being better than that of the 12p so......decision made to go with 10p in the FHXL.
I like the better efficiency of the 10p and I believe the numerous comments about the 10p bass being better than that of the 12p so......decision made to go with 10p in the FHXL.
Hey SCD, Chris...thanks for your comments. I've toyed with 2 ways but love the coherence of single drivers. I have the floor space. Drivers are on their way direct from HK! Not a lumber store in sight. I think I will be doing the low-level break-in from a couple of card board boxes whilst getting the build materials together. I will post pics but it may be a bit.
Any tips for creating the side panel radius? ( I should do a search)
Cheers
Sean in Busan
Any tips for creating the side panel radius? ( I should do a search)
Cheers
Sean in Busan
Sean - other than a CNC? 
There may be other methods, but my first pair of prototypes of all 3 sizes were done with hand cut MDF patterns. The radius of side panel curve on the FHXL is a bit large (65") to conveniently draw with a compass jig. I used a flexible stick (narrow rip of 1/4" ply / MDF works very well ) with nails / screws set at each end and centre of arc. Cut on band saw or jig saw outside the line and tidy up with spindle / end of vertical wide belt sander if available, or by hand (ugh).
To fully layout and cut both the 5dg angle for front edge and the curved portion for mouth opening takes a fair bit of time to get perfect, but can then be used as pattern to tidy up rough cut plywood side panels with router.
There may be other methods, but my first pair of prototypes of all 3 sizes were done with hand cut MDF patterns. The radius of side panel curve on the FHXL is a bit large (65") to conveniently draw with a compass jig. I used a flexible stick (narrow rip of 1/4" ply / MDF works very well ) with nails / screws set at each end and centre of arc. Cut on band saw or jig saw outside the line and tidy up with spindle / end of vertical wide belt sander if available, or by hand (ugh). To fully layout and cut both the 5dg angle for front edge and the curved portion for mouth opening takes a fair bit of time to get perfect, but can then be used as pattern to tidy up rough cut plywood side panels with router.
I did the bent stick with a couple of clamps to get the radius. I also made a pattern jig for my cabinets from 3/8" MDF. Once I got the pattern the way I wanted it . I used a pattern following router bit. The bit has the bearing on the top of the bit near the collet. Works great at getting perfectly matched pairs. The router tends to leave a pretty clean edge. I made mine from solid lumber, I think high quality plywood will work just fine.
Good luck keep us in the loop
I hope this helps
Good luck keep us in the loop
I hope this helps
I can supply dxf files. Here is the boilerplate:
<boilerplate>
DXF or DWG files are easily exported from the CAD software, native format is Vectorworks. I need to know the page of the PDF you need, and the version of DXF/DWG that can be handled. (i do have a collection of already exported)
It should be noted that a CNC is only really useful for the sides and the driver rebate. Unless the CNC is 5-axis, you will still need to pass all the internal pieces thru a table saw -- it is quicker & easier to just do them all on a table saw. You could rough cut the other pieces but they still need to go thru a table saw to angle the ends.
The drawings all assume a 5 mm kerf, so the CNC operator would need to adjust for the larger kerf needed for CNC work. You/they will need to adjust for actual wood thickness as well.
</boilerplate>
dave
<boilerplate>
DXF or DWG files are easily exported from the CAD software, native format is Vectorworks. I need to know the page of the PDF you need, and the version of DXF/DWG that can be handled. (i do have a collection of already exported)
It should be noted that a CNC is only really useful for the sides and the driver rebate. Unless the CNC is 5-axis, you will still need to pass all the internal pieces thru a table saw -- it is quicker & easier to just do them all on a table saw. You could rough cut the other pieces but they still need to go thru a table saw to angle the ends.
The drawings all assume a 5 mm kerf, so the CNC operator would need to adjust for the larger kerf needed for CNC work. You/they will need to adjust for actual wood thickness as well.
</boilerplate>
dave