Hello a3cervo:
I work with solid wood rather than plywood or MDF. Here is my story:
When I made mine I made a template from 3/8th" pressed board type material. I used a long thin piece of aluminum (~1/8th ") as a straight edge. I marked the ends and mid point of the curve. Then clamped blocks on the marks and spanned the three points with the straight edge. Compensate for the thickness of the edge, draw then line. Cut just a little outside then line with a jigsaw, sand with a drum sander focusing on a long smooth edge. I then clamped the template to the side panel material, drew the line with a 1/4 inch extra allowance. Cut that new line, re-clamp the template and use a pattern following straight cut router bit to produce an exact replica of the pattern. Then book match the pairs of sides and sand together to make them exact to each other.
I hope this helps
I work with solid wood rather than plywood or MDF. Here is my story:
When I made mine I made a template from 3/8th" pressed board type material. I used a long thin piece of aluminum (~1/8th ") as a straight edge. I marked the ends and mid point of the curve. Then clamped blocks on the marks and spanned the three points with the straight edge. Compensate for the thickness of the edge, draw then line. Cut just a little outside then line with a jigsaw, sand with a drum sander focusing on a long smooth edge. I then clamped the template to the side panel material, drew the line with a 1/4 inch extra allowance. Cut that new line, re-clamp the template and use a pattern following straight cut router bit to produce an exact replica of the pattern. Then book match the pairs of sides and sand together to make them exact to each other.
I hope this helps
Some Questions on stuffing below the driver:
1. How many grams should one start with as a minimum to allow for a balanced bass output (not too tight and not too loose)?
2. With the initial stuffing, is it required that the stuffing be always immediately below the driver? Or should there be space between the driver and the initial stuffing to allow additional material for tuning?
3. With the 80g stuffing, is this the maximum? And should it be immediately below the driver?
4. Is there a need for stuffing for the space at the back of the driver?
Thanks in advance.
1. How many grams should one start with as a minimum to allow for a balanced bass output (not too tight and not too loose)?
2. With the initial stuffing, is it required that the stuffing be always immediately below the driver? Or should there be space between the driver and the initial stuffing to allow additional material for tuning?
3. With the 80g stuffing, is this the maximum? And should it be immediately below the driver?
4. Is there a need for stuffing for the space at the back of the driver?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks Dave.
I am planning to place a mesh or something that will hold the stuffing midway the height below the driver.
So I will be adding stuffing incrementally starting at the bottom mesh/support.
If I get the tuning I prefer at some point and there is space between the bottom of the driver and the top of the stuffing, would it matter? Or as a rule, should there be no space from the bottom of the driver to the top of the stuffing?
I am planning to place a mesh or something that will hold the stuffing midway the height below the driver.
So I will be adding stuffing incrementally starting at the bottom mesh/support.
If I get the tuning I prefer at some point and there is space between the bottom of the driver and the top of the stuffing, would it matter? Or as a rule, should there be no space from the bottom of the driver to the top of the stuffing?
Frugel horn xl slope
Questions on Frugel horn XL slope of front face. If the on axis is the center of the driver in my case the alpair 10p is at 32.75 inches and the face has a 5 degree tilt then at the following distances from the speakers the on axis would be the following (approximately) measured from floor.
8 feet the on axis would be 38.3 inches
10 feet the on axis would be 41.45 inches
12 feet the on axis would be 45.35 inches
If my normal seated ear level is around 38 inches then I would be below the on axis at 10 feet and beyond . My question is what is the benefit of having the 5 degree tilt, I can understand the reason for a tilt in a multi driver speaker is too time align the driver but in a single driver speaker that shouldn’t be necessary. If the face was vertical and the driver position at approx 38 inches center line it would make the build of the horn a lot simpler.
Questions on Frugel horn XL slope of front face. If the on axis is the center of the driver in my case the alpair 10p is at 32.75 inches and the face has a 5 degree tilt then at the following distances from the speakers the on axis would be the following (approximately) measured from floor.
8 feet the on axis would be 38.3 inches
10 feet the on axis would be 41.45 inches
12 feet the on axis would be 45.35 inches
If my normal seated ear level is around 38 inches then I would be below the on axis at 10 feet and beyond . My question is what is the benefit of having the 5 degree tilt, I can understand the reason for a tilt in a multi driver speaker is too time align the driver but in a single driver speaker that shouldn’t be necessary. If the face was vertical and the driver position at approx 38 inches center line it would make the build of the horn a lot simpler.
I can only speak to the aesthetic & construction aspect - the original FH3 evolved from an earlier design without any tilt to the front baffle, and the internal dimensions / geometry all pivot around that 5dg angle.
If the tilt on the front panel was eliminated, the angles of internal and rear panels that form the folded horn would need to be retained, and the geometry/radius of curved rear mouth would change slightly. How much the latter would affect performance would be for the designer Scott to opine. Since for a lot of builders the curve to side panels (not just for looks) and the tight joint at sealed apex are the trickiest parts, I'm not sure how much simpler the build might be.
Change either of those to further simplify the build, and you could certainly end up with something that "works", but it wouldn't really be a FrugelHorn - certainly not aesthetically.
I've never personally noticed an issue with the driver height in the XLs, and being part of the team behind these designs - and having built literally dozens in total of all three models - I guess I have an emotional attachment to their current form.
If the tilt on the front panel was eliminated, the angles of internal and rear panels that form the folded horn would need to be retained, and the geometry/radius of curved rear mouth would change slightly. How much the latter would affect performance would be for the designer Scott to opine. Since for a lot of builders the curve to side panels (not just for looks) and the tight joint at sealed apex are the trickiest parts, I'm not sure how much simpler the build might be.
Change either of those to further simplify the build, and you could certainly end up with something that "works", but it wouldn't really be a FrugelHorn - certainly not aesthetically.
I've never personally noticed an issue with the driver height in the XLs, and being part of the team behind these designs - and having built literally dozens in total of all three models - I guess I have an emotional attachment to their current form.
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