Well, I'm consequent stupid 
Made the same mistake with the placement as with the regular Manzie... the Vifa's should be on the inside, the Vifa's should be on the inside, the Vifa's should be on the inside, the Vifa's should be on the inside... come on, it's not that hard to remember... really...
So, sides changed and now I start the listening and tuning/tweaking again. With the regular Manzie there was a big difference with the Vifa's on the inside vs. on the outside of the baffle.
Regardless, I'm considering switching back to the regular Manzie, but I'll do the tuning first. Let's see how it turns out.
Made the same mistake with the placement as with the regular Manzie... the Vifa's should be on the inside, the Vifa's should be on the inside, the Vifa's should be on the inside, the Vifa's should be on the inside... come on, it's not that hard to remember... really...
So, sides changed and now I start the listening and tuning/tweaking again. With the regular Manzie there was a big difference with the Vifa's on the inside vs. on the outside of the baffle.
Regardless, I'm considering switching back to the regular Manzie, but I'll do the tuning first. Let's see how it turns out.
Hi, just a short report: I reverted it to the regular Manzie. For me (i.e. for my room, taste, music, etc.) it is the better speaker. I am happy.
Next - inspired by the Manzie - something with higher sensitivity will come, in order to drive it with an FW amp without issues.
Next - inspired by the Manzie - something with higher sensitivity will come, in order to drive it with an FW amp without issues.
Let us know what you think. I never use it but John thought it was a worthwhile improvement.
In a related experience, I worked on the 18” coaxial crossover with John. We were tweaking it at RMAF one year. While it did sound very good (better than 90% of what was on offer at the show) I was never quite satisfied. The compression driver had a bite, an edge to it that I could never tame with any crossover tricks.
After John got them home he discovered that it was the woofer, not the compression driver, that was biting. He fixed it with a woofer trap.
In a related experience, I worked on the 18” coaxial crossover with John. We were tweaking it at RMAF one year. While it did sound very good (better than 90% of what was on offer at the show) I was never quite satisfied. The compression driver had a bite, an edge to it that I could never tame with any crossover tricks.
After John got them home he discovered that it was the woofer, not the compression driver, that was biting. He fixed it with a woofer trap.
I have a somewhat basic question- are there any advantages to mounting the HF driver off the baffle? I am thinking about mounting the bass driver on the floor in a winged baffle for more LFE and having the HF driver up at ear height on a slim post w/just a mounting ring. I want to do this to help with directivity and also to enable swapping out HF drivers for testing/taste.
This is a very long thread but I seem to remember the two drivers were kept close to each other on purpose. It had something to do with their sound but the specifics of that explanation escapes me. Someone wanted the woofer lower to minimize floor bounce and the floor bounce was considered a lesser evil than having the drivers so far apart.
The mid/tweeter was placed where it is on the baffle to get the right low end response out of it. I seem to remember someone wanting to put the tweeter in the center of the baffle and that was discouraged as it would have required designing a new crossover.
You can try anything you want, of course. This is DIY. Just let us know how you make out and take a bunch of pictures.
The mid/tweeter was placed where it is on the baffle to get the right low end response out of it. I seem to remember someone wanting to put the tweeter in the center of the baffle and that was discouraged as it would have required designing a new crossover.
You can try anything you want, of course. This is DIY. Just let us know how you make out and take a bunch of pictures.
Hi, I'm approaching my first built and I am a bit lost between different designs and countless variables to consider.
I have easy access to cheap hardwood and I am a woodworker (no MDF no plywood), so the Manzanita would be a great option.
I live abroad and have to change residence every few years, so don't ask about the room, tomorrow might be quite different from today. I'd like no more than 12" driver in case space will be limited in the future.
I liked the idea of the monkey box coffin open source too, but budget was just too much.
I have the opposite problem with the Manzanita, the budget seems too low for a good set of speakers.
Would it be easy to upgrade the Manzanita with better drivers and/or crossovers, say to a max 1000USD all included? Or does that demand a full re-desiging of the speakers?
Do you know any other proven DIY design for an open baffle with better components?
Thanks and happy new year!
D
I have easy access to cheap hardwood and I am a woodworker (no MDF no plywood), so the Manzanita would be a great option.
I live abroad and have to change residence every few years, so don't ask about the room, tomorrow might be quite different from today. I'd like no more than 12" driver in case space will be limited in the future.
I liked the idea of the monkey box coffin open source too, but budget was just too much.
I have the opposite problem with the Manzanita, the budget seems too low
for a good set of speakers.Would it be easy to upgrade the Manzanita with better drivers and/or crossovers, say to a max 1000USD all included? Or does that demand a full re-desiging of the speakers?
Do you know any other proven DIY design for an open baffle with better components?
Thanks and happy new year!
D
If you change components and/or cabinet/baffle you have to redesign the crossover, but the best part of the Manzanita is that... is cheap: you need just a couple of scrap panels to get started and, if you do not like them you can reuse the peerless (that is a good speaker) in a closed cabinet for another project. Same for the crossover components. I would give them a try.
Happy new year everybody
Happy new year everybody
Hi all,
After a lot of thoughts and re-reading this thread I decided to go ahead with the Manzanita 12".
Drivers are available at soundimport.eu in Europe, where I'm planning to buy, but only one of the xo components is available, the others are out of stock or have different specifications and I have no clue as to what extent specifications can be changed.
I wouldn't mind upgrading on xo components if needed. If anybody from Europe has faced the same challenge pls let me know how you sorted it out.
In alternative, would anybody in this forum be so kind to assist in identifing suitable alternatives from soundimports?
To ease the task, below is a table with the missing parts and PE link.
Thanks,
D
After a lot of thoughts and re-reading this thread I decided to go ahead with the Manzanita 12".
Drivers are available at soundimport.eu in Europe, where I'm planning to buy, but only one of the xo components is available, the others are out of stock or have different specifications and I have no clue as to what extent specifications can be changed.
I wouldn't mind upgrading on xo components if needed. If anybody from Europe has faced the same challenge pls let me know how you sorted it out.
In alternative, would anybody in this forum be so kind to assist in identifing suitable alternatives from soundimports?
To ease the task, below is a table with the missing parts and PE link.
Thanks,
D
| Parts Express ref. | PE link |
| L1 as PE #266-960 | https://www.parts-express.com/ERSE-...minated-Iron-Core-Inductor-266-960?quantity=1 |
| L2 as PE #257-328 | https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...AWG-Perfect-Layer-Inductor-257-328?quantity=1 |
| R1 as PE #005-8 | https://www.parts-express.com/Mills-8-Ohm-12W-Non-Inductive-Resistor-005-8?quantity=1 |
| R2 as PE # 005-4.5 | https://www.parts-express.com/Mills-4.5-Ohm-12W-Non-Inductive-Resistor-005-4.5?quantity=1 |
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I'm not familiar with European distributors but can toss out a few thoughts. Maybe some of them will help.
Erse went out of business when their owner passed away so there won't be any more products from them. US Coil seems to be the company that rose from it's ashes and they are at uscoils.us. Unfortunately they don't list coils anywhere near a 20 mH iron core.
The general recommendation on this thread has been to buy a Parts Express crossover that has an 18 mH coil and just use the coil from that circuit temporarily until better is available. https://www.parts-express.com/100-Hz-Low-Pass-8-Ohm-Crossover-266-446?quantity=1
The 2.0 mH coil is available from solen.ca and they have non-mills resistors, too. Don't know if they'll ship to you.
Hopefully some of this helps and hopefully someone in Europe can give you better info on what's available.
Erse went out of business when their owner passed away so there won't be any more products from them. US Coil seems to be the company that rose from it's ashes and they are at uscoils.us. Unfortunately they don't list coils anywhere near a 20 mH iron core.
The general recommendation on this thread has been to buy a Parts Express crossover that has an 18 mH coil and just use the coil from that circuit temporarily until better is available. https://www.parts-express.com/100-Hz-Low-Pass-8-Ohm-Crossover-266-446?quantity=1
The 2.0 mH coil is available from solen.ca and they have non-mills resistors, too. Don't know if they'll ship to you.
Hopefully some of this helps and hopefully someone in Europe can give you better info on what's available.
isnt it better to go miniDSP 2x4HD instead of making a crossover cause i dont think you will stick with this config for long
Very good option for 20mH coil in Europe:
https://www.audiohobby.eu/en/jantze...antzen-c-coil-200mh-17awg-03ohm-000-6602.html
https://www.audiohobby.eu/en/jantze...antzen-c-coil-200mh-17awg-03ohm-000-6602.html
I've built the Manzie too, first as per BOM, and later I tweaked the xo.
Currently I'm working on some own constructions; instead of the iron core I like to use toroidal inductors, so for 18 mH (instead of 20) I would use this one - but please wait until maybe @Pano tells something: https://www.soundimports.eu/de/freq...n=0&sort=popular&filter[]=642033&min=0&max=90
2 mH - I use this one without issues: https://www.soundimports.eu/de/jantzen-audio-000-1063.html
8 ohms/20 Watt- I use this series https://www.soundimports.eu/de/dayton-audio-dpr20-80.html
4,5 ohms... well, this one is 4,7 ohms/20 Watt, but you will want to tweak your xo (you must), so you can start with it https://www.soundimports.eu/de/dayton-audio-dpr20-47.html
But - please wait for @Pano
Thanks a lot to everybody, you rocks!
Plott, I've probably missed some too-technical-posts, I don't understand when you write "this one is 4,7 ohms/20 Watt, but you will want to tweak your xo (you must), so you can start with it https://www.soundimports.eu/de/dayton-audio-dpr20-47.html" can you please clarify, what is this element for and based on what I have to tweak it.
Cheers,
D