Tapered wings allow you to use deeper wings with resonances. You can look at some of the photos that Barry posted.
The first Manzanitas we built had a straight wing on one side and tapered on the other. But for an easier build we published two identical wings that are shallow. That’s what you see in this thread.
The tapered wings also mean that the baffle is less symmetrical and therefore the ripples in frequency response caused by the baffle edge are more spread out, less peaky. It’s not a huge difference IME.
The first Manzanitas we built had a straight wing on one side and tapered on the other. But for an easier build we published two identical wings that are shallow. That’s what you see in this thread.
The tapered wings also mean that the baffle is less symmetrical and therefore the ripples in frequency response caused by the baffle edge are more spread out, less peaky. It’s not a huge difference IME.
Hi, now I decreased R1 to 2,7 ohms and there is even more liveliness, without being shouty, no screaming mids and highs.
What I notice - while searching for the real placement - that the baffle vibrates clearly.
Is it part of the game or is it the MDF baffle? Should I use Noico? Acoustic foam?
Would it be better with bb ply?
Regardless, London Grammar plays in my living room, Hannah Reid stands 2,5 meters in front of me, while singing Californian Soil. Gorgeous.
What I notice - while searching for the real placement - that the baffle vibrates clearly.
Is it part of the game or is it the MDF baffle? Should I use Noico? Acoustic foam?
Would it be better with bb ply?
Regardless, London Grammar plays in my living room, Hannah Reid stands 2,5 meters in front of me, while singing Californian Soil. Gorgeous.
If baffle vibration is noticeable, then you might want to add some bracing on the back of the baffle.
You lowering of R1 makes sense, as your large baffle and moderately deep wings give you more output from the woofer than the stock Manzie. The tweeter now needs to play louder to keep up. That's what crossover tuning is all about.
You lowering of R1 makes sense, as your large baffle and moderately deep wings give you more output from the woofer than the stock Manzie. The tweeter now needs to play louder to keep up. That's what crossover tuning is all about.
Thanks PanoIf baffle vibration is noticeable, then you might want to add some bracing on the back of the baffle.
You lowering of R1 makes sense, as your large baffle and moderately deep wings give you more output from the woofer than the stock Manzie. The tweeter now needs to play louder to keep up. That's what crossover tuning is all about.
Yes, there was some distorted tonal balance with too much (boomy?) bass and I think it is still too much, further tuning will follow tomorrow.
And yes, the vibration is noticeable, I fear it can cause coloration and/or distortion. So bracing will be installed.
They are a total of 158 mm (6,22 in) deep, minus 19 mm (0,75 in) for the baffle.
Hi, somehow I fight with my Ultra The adjustments bring something, but it seems to me that there is too much bass. Is it possible that the Ultra just doesn't suit me (room size, listening habits, taste, etc.)? I kinda miss the light footedness of the regular Manzie. Is the fault with me? Is the Ultra necessarily better? Help please! 
The adjustments bring something, but it seems to me that there is too much bass. Is it possible that the Ultra just doesn't suit me (room size, listening habits, taste, etc.)? I kinda miss the light footedness of the regular Manzie. Is the fault with me? Is the Ultra necessarily better? Help please! 
You’re on the DIY roller coaster, Plott. Mania, worry, defeat, elation, hesitance, panic, doubt, redemption, skepticism, joy, pride… Others can’t answer this for you and would likely ask for measurements to help out.
What variables haven’t you tried? Room treatment, front/rear baffle treatment, placement, toe in/out, tilt, raise, coupling/decoupling with the floor, etc…
What variables haven’t you tried? Room treatment, front/rear baffle treatment, placement, toe in/out, tilt, raise, coupling/decoupling with the floor, etc…
The Ultras put out a lot of bass, for sure. But there are a lot of things that can change the presentation.
Distance from the front wall. Usually they need 2 or 3 feet from the wall but 4 works in some rooms and 2 in others.
Distance from the side wall. It's not supposed to matter with this kind of design but it does. It's generally recommended to keep them at least a few feet from the sides walls.
Toe in. After you get the front and side wall distance good see if a bit of an angle changes things.
Footers make a difference. I play with the rubber/cork/rubber squares that are available in plumbing supply stores or Amazon. It's really dependent on the room and floor. Oddly in one room the Ultras sound better with the footers but in another they don't. But the footers are cheap and do a nice job under the electronics, too.
My Ultras are in a small room right now and placement was a pain but it did make a big difference. They still have a lot of bass, though. John loved bass.
Distance from the front wall. Usually they need 2 or 3 feet from the wall but 4 works in some rooms and 2 in others.
Distance from the side wall. It's not supposed to matter with this kind of design but it does. It's generally recommended to keep them at least a few feet from the sides walls.
Toe in. After you get the front and side wall distance good see if a bit of an angle changes things.
Footers make a difference. I play with the rubber/cork/rubber squares that are available in plumbing supply stores or Amazon. It's really dependent on the room and floor. Oddly in one room the Ultras sound better with the footers but in another they don't. But the footers are cheap and do a nice job under the electronics, too.
My Ultras are in a small room right now and placement was a pain but it did make a big difference. They still have a lot of bass, though. John loved bass.
Try a quick and dirty RTA-type measurement from your listening position. Use a phone app if you have to.
See if it's one band of notes that's bothering. If not move them toward the front wall in steps, see how that reduces overall bass.
If it is, calculate the distances that cut/boost the problem notes.
See if it's one band of notes that's bothering. If not move them toward the front wall in steps, see how that reduces overall bass.
If it is, calculate the distances that cut/boost the problem notes.
Msny thanks, fellas!
The drivers have about 200 hours listening time (originally used in the regular Manzie), so burn in is not an issue.
I think they are planned to have a lot of bass Pano wrote earlier he would choose 18 mH for the bass, John used 20 mH - I use 18 mH and have plenty of bass
Thanks again for your help
Well, I wouldn't go that far, but it's the first time that a diy project doesn't work immediately. But you're right, there are many parameters to check...
My room is about 30 square meters, the speakers stand about 4 feets in front of the wall, one side wall is also in 4 feets, the other much more. They are toed in, and I tried many angles. They stand on aluminum-sorbothan-cork feets.
The drivers have about 200 hours listening time (originally used in the regular Manzie), so burn in is not an issue.
I think they are planned to have a lot of bass
Pano wrote earlier he would choose 18 mH for the bass, John used 20 mH - I use 18 mH and have plenty of bass I will make some measurements tomorrow or so with Omnimic.
Thanks again for your help
Short summary: "It's the placement, stupid!" 
Placed here and there, now about 2.8 feets in front of the wall, and the bass is reduced and now the speakers have a great tonal balance; they are toed in almost directly toward my listening place.
The stage is like sitting in the 2nd row instead of the 1st, but it doesn't matter. Listening distance is now 7.9 feets, as is the distance between the speakers.
Placed here and there, now about 2.8 feets in front of the wall, and the bass is reduced and now the speakers have a great tonal balance; they are toed in almost directly toward my listening place.
The stage is like sitting in the 2nd row instead of the 1st, but it doesn't matter. Listening distance is now 7.9 feets, as is the distance between the speakers.
Besides, I think it would be worth changing the recommended crossover values for the Manzanita with Peerleess SLS12.
John later recommended:
Attenuation - 5R
Trap resistor 15R.
I confirm that this is the right solution for the current TC9FD production. Possibly attenuation - 4.7R, but the trap is evidently 15ohm.
The use of 4.5R and 8R produces uneven, loud and artificial sound.
John later recommended:
Attenuation - 5R
Trap resistor 15R.
I confirm that this is the right solution for the current TC9FD production. Possibly attenuation - 4.7R, but the trap is evidently 15ohm.
The use of 4.5R and 8R produces uneven, loud and artificial sound.
Thanks. I don't use the trap, altough I tried it. R1 is now 2.7 ohms in order to compensate the bigger bass output and R2 is 5.1 ohms, for louder top.
I don't think you understand. I am not writing about a trap for SLS12 (0.4mH + 15uF) - there is no resistor there.
the trap for the Vifa is R2 (parallel to the 2.0mH coil). In the diagram, the default is 8R. And John then recommended the 12-15R. This is an adjustment of the amount of tones above crossover point.
the trap for the Vifa is R2 (parallel to the 2.0mH coil). In the diagram, the default is 8R. And John then recommended the 12-15R. This is an adjustment of the amount of tones above crossover point.
Okay, it wasn't clear what you mean, because "trap" means for me the woofer trap.
I think the tweaks are just recommendations and the values depend on much factors. I tried many values and ended up with the values as I wrote (2.7 ohms instead of 4.5 and 5.1 ohms instead of 8). However, I will make the measurement and check the response. But that's how it sounds good for me.
I'm glad.Short summary: "It's the placement, stupid!"
Placed here and there, now about 2.8 feets in front of the wall, and the bass is reduced and now the speakers have a great tonal balance; they are toed in almost directly toward my listening place.
The stage is like sitting in the 2nd row instead of the 1st, but it doesn't matter. Listening distance is now 7.9 feets, as is the distance between the speakers.
Placement is always a circus act- working with the elephant.
So many speakers are stubborn, they resist being told where and how to play, and rooms just have a bad attitude.