Nice job 🙂
What method did you choose for the printing of the front panel please ?
I noticed also a very big bandwidth : it goes subjectivly deep in the bass and high in the treble !
What method did you choose for the printing of the front panel please ?
I noticed also a very big bandwidth : it goes subjectivly deep in the bass and high in the treble !
Hi,
I used Crafty Computer Paper from https://www.craftycomputerpaper.co....Yr3MI6yHmvW1ouJtdtf9vTJBUs0NDXkmj0BoCfPnw_wcB.
The front and rear panels are each made from a single large transfer. This seemed much easier than aligning several smaller transfers.
The rear panel was a real pain and continues to be so. I just started tidying up the wiring and sorting out some of my extra circuits (you remember "leave well enough alone"?)...and now I have only thin reedy sound which seems not to be affected by the volume control ...so here we go again. It will be something stupid ...what a strange hobby!
I used Crafty Computer Paper from https://www.craftycomputerpaper.co....Yr3MI6yHmvW1ouJtdtf9vTJBUs0NDXkmj0BoCfPnw_wcB.
The front and rear panels are each made from a single large transfer. This seemed much easier than aligning several smaller transfers.
The rear panel was a real pain and continues to be so. I just started tidying up the wiring and sorting out some of my extra circuits (you remember "leave well enough alone"?)...and now I have only thin reedy sound which seems not to be affected by the volume control ...so here we go again. It will be something stupid ...what a strange hobby!
Hind Sight
Well, the lessons of this are KISS...but I never, ever learned that one. Also to make things in the simplest way, but no simpler..to quote someone a lot cleverer than me.
The fault which hit me yesterday was me using connectors in the wrong orientation on my remote volume control. I know, another (obvious) lesson there.
Even with earthing and various connector games I still get a turn-on thump..not bad but spoils the effect.
The solution to that..failing another attempt at the earthing solution relates to my remote control of the various sockets and lights in the house, using Domoticz (https://www.domoticz.com/) via a Raspberry pi. Basically, I shall just set the remote on/off of the Hi-Fi system so that the "peripherals" are all powered up 10 seconds before the power amps. The turn-off is just the reverse, of this but with 5 seconds delay. Since this is just done with a script, no (new) hardware involved. Not sure if this is really a KISS solution, but I never did learn KISS, and in any case it is fun.
Thanks for all the help.
Hi Carl,
Well, the lessons of this are KISS...but I never, ever learned that one. Also to make things in the simplest way, but no simpler..to quote someone a lot cleverer than me.
The fault which hit me yesterday was me using connectors in the wrong orientation on my remote volume control. I know, another (obvious) lesson there.
Even with earthing and various connector games I still get a turn-on thump..not bad but spoils the effect.
The solution to that..failing another attempt at the earthing solution relates to my remote control of the various sockets and lights in the house, using Domoticz (https://www.domoticz.com/) via a Raspberry pi. Basically, I shall just set the remote on/off of the Hi-Fi system so that the "peripherals" are all powered up 10 seconds before the power amps. The turn-off is just the reverse, of this but with 5 seconds delay. Since this is just done with a script, no (new) hardware involved. Not sure if this is really a KISS solution, but I never did learn KISS, and in any case it is fun.
Thanks for all the help.
Hello. Only just found this thread. I have been interested in this design for a while and am wondering whether there are any kits or pcbs still available?
Hello. I have been looking through this thread and am interested in this design and would like to find out if there are any PCB's available to build this project?
Hi Carl. Construction coming along well. I have a couple of queries. C47 is missing from the BOM, was this deemed superfluous? Also C40 is specified as ' fine gold', can I use 'muse' instead as the pin pitch doesn't fit the board? Thanks
Hi. Yes, thanks, I can see that looking at the pictures that have been posted. I think I had an old copy of the BOM and there were a few mistakes. Thanks again for your help
You need to check the BOM with the shematic because the small errors due to the revisions: some errors about the connector power supply plugs. Some parts have to be x2 as it's specified for mono, not stereo ! Be carefull when soldering on vias for the wima caps where you have 3 or 4 vias for bigger leads pitched cap: easy to make an error and have no sound. There are also one or two resistor missing in the main BOM : for instance at some points you need 5 resistor of a same value instead 4; so 10 instead 8 as it's stereo !
HaHa, I know, it has been a bit of a nightmare! I think I found most of the anomalies! Yes, found one of the prints on PCB for a Wima was wrong. Only other mistake I'm aware of (so far) is that I bought 15 bypass caps instead of 30. Still, stimulates the old grey matter! I had two 47R resistors in BOM that aren't in schematic or marked on PCB?
Btw, what are the best caps for the main powersupply diodes bridge decoupling : MKT or ceramic ?
Yep, all the boms of DIY projects have some small errors due to the collective work !
Yep, all the boms of DIY projects have some small errors due to the collective work !
and the enhanced Excel PS bom specifies MKT IIRC ?! I don't use it as I don't know and at least Don't know if really needed as it's fast diodes bridge ? Had no time to try the both : with or without.
Right, I've got the old BOM of that as well then. I haven't built the PSU yet, was planning to use one I already have. I thought snubbers were more beneficial with fast diodes than normal ones? Would it be possible for you to post the PSU BOM you have?