diyAB Amp - The "Honey Badger"

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#1,821
mbrennwa said:
Or ask questions, get answers.

As mentioned before, the DC voltage will end up at about 55 V with your transformers (or maybe a bit lower). The 63 V rating should do it, although some may say that more margin would be better. But with this PSU already available I would just give it a try.
Click to expand...

Yes , and no . Maybe some the simple one. At least you need gear a full elec. lab
Andrew T did not get it working ( In memory of) .

Of course help can be provided , heltim asked a lot in a good way.Anyway
Im a tech. in analog electronics & EDP. (True)
Answers like AC to DC voltage mbrennwa answered , so basics. Should someone answer
a question so basic . If so read about passive components, check data sheets same with active semiconductors. Practical electronics , run electodroid or similar app to ease , calulate basics . Running into brick wall then ask.
Matching bjt. DC & AC analysis prefered at
Now mbrennwa have you completed HB .& as build guide or own choice.
Why use PCB with golden tracks when the guide do not. Should be asked !
Disadvantages: of electroless nickel immersion gold (check out if unknown).

Solder Joint Reliability of Gold Surface Finishes (ENIG, ENEPIG, DIG)
 
#1,829
js22 said:
Hi All,

I'm in the planning/purchasing stage of a HB build. One mod I'd like to try is a capacitance multiplier between the OPS rails and the IPS/VAS. I found a well known design 😉 which I'll call "SM" that has what I think is a "drop in" solution. The idea is to omit the HB parts circled in attachment 1, and add the SM parts circled in attachment 2. A little perfboard should be able to handle it using the unpopulated holes in the HB board.

One question. In the SM design, there is an RC stage upstream from the multiplier. Can I safely ignore that ? (There are a couple of loads there in the SM that don't exist in HB).

Also, apart from the R22/R23 ratio, are there any crucial component values in the multiplier circuit ? Anything need to be changed for the HB application ?

Any good reasons why I should NOT do this ?

FWIW, I'm looking at OPS power rails around 42 volts, so 40-ish after the multiplier. (I'm a sonic sissy - no loud music chez moi.)

Thanks

PS #1 No I didn't forget about the negative rail !

PS #2 If this would be better in the build thread, find a kind and gentle way to let me know.


MTA : Although I circled the output bypass cap (HB c10, SM C5) I would physically mount that one on the HB board, not on the perfboard.
Click to expand...

Can someone help? Referring to the attachment (on the right side) of the quoted post, what should be the minimum voltage rating of C7/C10 of the cap multiplier circuit for 42V supply?
 
#1,836
Hello,


I think about may be building the honey badger the next time.


Want to use a broken Yamaha MX70 (one CH went up in smoke).
Use the Chassis maybe the transformer if it fits and so on...


So here is my question:
How would be the Badger in comparision to the yamaha mx70? have someone heard the both amps?


Because i also think about to repair the Yamaha and quit the badger.


do not really know what i should do????




Thanks for suggestions,


Alex
 
#1,837
Smoke and sparks

Started my first test Power supply measures spot on at 63.8 volts both sides. Installed my two 10 ohm resistors in place of the two fuses turned on the power and r54 went up in smoke One thing I found later is if I put my continuity meter on a any C terminal of the transistors and the heat sink frame I have connection and other ground spots. Is this normal? I did my test without any soft start or surge protection ( cl-60 will be here in a couple days)
 

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