diyAB Amp - The "Honey Badger"

Finally got the rest of this beast up and running. Great sounding amp.
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That's come a long way MK congrats! If you decide to keep the amp and use it, I would take all the spade and friction connection out and solder them all. In the past, I went in and soldered them with those friction connectors, which works well too. Some will say they will be fine, but when you really want to lock something in, I always solder it.

JT
 
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Hi There-
I have searched and searched, but no luck. It ‘appears’ that there are multiple locations for jumpers (beyond the C-R-Z cascode option. Am I looking at these incorrectly? To illustrate what is confusing me, I circled a few of the areas in question. Thanks in advance,
Wes
 

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@ Ingo
I do not use speaker protection on any Amp that I build. I have had no need for it and I have had zero problems. I never make any connections with the Amp powered and speaker cables are all in great condition. I tend to think it is a knee jerk reaction that you have to have protection.
 
Hi Freecrowder,
As a service technician for nearly 50 years, I'll disagree very strongly with you. I have seen more than my share of amplifiers that destroyed speakers, some causing fires that involved fire departments or fire extinguishers (I did insurance work too). The biggest problems come from amplifiers without active speaker protection. Fuses don't cut it - and they cause distortion.

I'm glad you have never had a problem. But that just like a person that drinks and it's okay because they haven't had an accident or been caught yet. They will argue there isn't a problem - until there is.

The only amplifiers I build without speaker protection are tube amps using output transformers, because DC offset is impossible.