To clarify. Are using asking about:
a) the fuse at your power entry that is in series with the primary side of your power transformer and power switch.
B) the fuses on the dc power rails on the main wolverine pcb
I was asking about the fuses on the dc power rails on the power boards.
But now that you've raised the question I have need to know the value of the fuse that is in line with my power switch/transformers as well.
Thanks for asking,
John
But now that you've raised the question I have need to know the value of the fuse that is in line with my power switch/transformers as well.
Thanks for asking,
John
For your side of the pond, 1000VA - 8A fast fuse at your mains entry point and 6A fast fuses on your boards would be my recommendation.
As discussed earlier here are photos showing (for a standard DIY audio deluxe 5u chassis):
1, 2 the UMS holes that an EF3-4 uses
3,4 the 2 extra holes that must be drilled and tapped for the EF3-4 outer edges
5,6 A comparison of a TO3P vs a TO264 package (with the EF3-4 board fully fixed into the above mounting points) showing the TO3P's line up with the UMS holes but the TO264 transistors sit 5mm higher and require a whole new row of 8 holes 5mm above the existing.
As discussed earlier here are photos showing (for a standard DIY audio deluxe 5u chassis):
1, 2 the UMS holes that an EF3-4 uses
3,4 the 2 extra holes that must be drilled and tapped for the EF3-4 outer edges
5,6 A comparison of a TO3P vs a TO264 package (with the EF3-4 board fully fixed into the above mounting points) showing the TO3P's line up with the UMS holes but the TO264 transistors sit 5mm higher and require a whole new row of 8 holes 5mm above the existing.
Wow mainframe99, that is super helpful to me. Those pictures really clarify things too. I haven't ordered parts yet. I think I will make it easy on myself and buy transistors in the package that was intended for the UMS heatsinks.
Thank you,
John
Thank you,
John
First, I want to thank all the Wolverine Forum members who have answered my questions to date. I do appreciate it.
Now I have more questions. I am confused by the bottom photo on page 33 of the Wolverine Build Guide. I have the pcb's that are part of the third group buy, EF3-4 (v.4.0). There are three large holes in the pcb labeled Q107, Q103 and Q108. So it appears that there are at least two ways to mount those transistors.......1) on a fabricated heat sink that has a minimum thickness of 2.5mm or 2) on the main heatsink. The Guide says to mount Q103 on the main heat sink if you are mounting the pcb parallel to the main heat sink (which I am). What about Q107 and Q108? Do you have the option to mount them under the pcb like Q103, or is the preferred option to mount those two resistors on the fabricated heat sink (which is no problem for me as I have sourced 3mm aluminum for this)?
Second question: I am confused about the NFB route. The Guide says that for second group buy pcb's and presumably for those that came after Route 2 is the preferred option. To select Route 2 do you simply bridge the solder pads labeled Route 2 and then also bridge the pads above the marking L1 1.5 UH? What about the pads under TP103? Exactly what do you need to do to complete Route 2?
Also, what is the (relatively) heavy wire shown in that bottom photo on Page 33 of the Guide that connects NFB to some other point that is outside the range of the photo? I think I saw this wire in Daniel's video of the Wolverine build on YouTube too. Where does the other end of that wire connect? I don't think it's mentioned in the Build Guide. Is it an option? If so, what effect does it have on the amplifier?
Thanks,
John
Now I have more questions. I am confused by the bottom photo on page 33 of the Wolverine Build Guide. I have the pcb's that are part of the third group buy, EF3-4 (v.4.0). There are three large holes in the pcb labeled Q107, Q103 and Q108. So it appears that there are at least two ways to mount those transistors.......1) on a fabricated heat sink that has a minimum thickness of 2.5mm or 2) on the main heatsink. The Guide says to mount Q103 on the main heat sink if you are mounting the pcb parallel to the main heat sink (which I am). What about Q107 and Q108? Do you have the option to mount them under the pcb like Q103, or is the preferred option to mount those two resistors on the fabricated heat sink (which is no problem for me as I have sourced 3mm aluminum for this)?
Second question: I am confused about the NFB route. The Guide says that for second group buy pcb's and presumably for those that came after Route 2 is the preferred option. To select Route 2 do you simply bridge the solder pads labeled Route 2 and then also bridge the pads above the marking L1 1.5 UH? What about the pads under TP103? Exactly what do you need to do to complete Route 2?
Also, what is the (relatively) heavy wire shown in that bottom photo on Page 33 of the Guide that connects NFB to some other point that is outside the range of the photo? I think I saw this wire in Daniel's video of the Wolverine build on YouTube too. Where does the other end of that wire connect? I don't think it's mentioned in the Build Guide. Is it an option? If so, what effect does it have on the amplifier?
Thanks,
John
Just got a delivery from @fireanimal and I’m super impressed! Time is a commodity I’m super short on at the moment, so without his help I would still be in the planning stages… thanks mate!
For anyone that’s ordered from Toroidy.pl how long did it take them to confirm and ship your order? It’s been radio silence for a couple of weeks, so I’m wondering if I should follow up or if this is just standard practice?
Lastly has anyone had any luck contacting Conrad heatsinks lately, I can’t get in touch via email or phone, are they still in operation? If not does anyone have any other recommendations?
Thanks!
For anyone that’s ordered from Toroidy.pl how long did it take them to confirm and ship your order? It’s been radio silence for a couple of weeks, so I’m wondering if I should follow up or if this is just standard practice?
Lastly has anyone had any luck contacting Conrad heatsinks lately, I can’t get in touch via email or phone, are they still in operation? If not does anyone have any other recommendations?
Thanks!
Attachments
1. preferred mounting of Q107 and Q108 is on the main heatsink with q103 between them. this requires drilling and tapping 3 more heatsink holes which I haven't pictured above. Daniel has some great youtube videos on this https://www.youtube.com/@danw1million
specifically, this video shows the holes and mounting
- in that same video the Q103 and Q104 transistors are installed with an outdated method which has since been updated in the build guide
2. only solder bridge these 2, as you suggested leave the others unsoldered (don't make a NFB trace ring path)
3. That was a NFB path mod that is optional see here, should be ignored, the gain is only really applicable to 1st GB boards.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...he-wolverine-build-thread.385920/post-7361066
specifically, this video shows the holes and mounting
2. only solder bridge these 2, as you suggested leave the others unsoldered (don't make a NFB trace ring path)
3. That was a NFB path mod that is optional see here, should be ignored, the gain is only really applicable to 1st GB boards.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...he-wolverine-build-thread.385920/post-7361066
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About order fulfillment from toroidy.pl I placed an order for 2 transformers on 29 juni and received them in the Netherlands on 22 july. They send out a request for order conformation within a day. That's pretty close to what they told me when placing the order; there site mentioned 15 working days.
And if wondering about modushop.biz An order placed 22 july was picked up by FedEx almost instantly and arrived in Netherlands today.
Awesome thanks! Looks like I need to practice some patience lol. I can’t find any decent heat sinks in 🇦🇺 so I think I might just machine my own... I’d love the modushop one to make my life easy, but it gets really expensive with shipping…
In my case, order was confirmed next day of payment and package was send 20 days later. It was a special request by the way, 4 secondary windings.
It is, I have various kits available. Sorry I cannot PM you.
Many thanks for answering my questions. The photographs are especially illuminating. I did watch Daniel's entire series of videos several times. I started noticing differences between the video presentations and the Build Guide. Those videos are now 2 years old. So there have been some changes. Thanks again for the explanations and clarification.
John
Awesome, thanks! I didn’t get the confirmation after I paid, but I just got a brief one liner today saying they received the payment… they must be pretty busy. Appreciate the extra info!
@Toastmaster1973 I’ve tried the web form, email and phone with no luck in writing and the phone ringing out. I’ll try again though and report back if I have any luck. Fingers crossed!
@Stepping3D - Conrad responds to the "Sales Enquiry and Order" form on the web site fairly quickly in my experience from a few years ago now, but I suspect he is almost a one man show. And the price was as published on the web site. It seems to me he is supportive of the "hobby" folks like us.
Hey @Johno thanks for the extra info... I just tried again and the web form still isn't working. I notice Alltronics only have two models in stock currently as well, not sure if this is a sign? I will try and call again tomorrow and see if I have any luck. Tried four different browsers on phone and PC, so I think maybe they have shut down at this point? I hope not!
Just managed to get onto Conrad Heatsinks this morning for anyone that’s interested. They are having issues with their web form and email at the moment, but are looking into it and were able to track my email down once I spoke to them on the phone. Really nice guy!