If someone can provide him with some detailed pictures of a know working PCB of the same revision, he can just copy it. That,s how it was done in factory,s in the old days. Only difference being that factory workers had a physic example in front of them. No magic or witchcraft is needed.
Measure the resistance between +,-,gnd, spk... as stated in build guide.
Check D103, D109, D110, D104. Polarity and short. If wrong this will blow fuses.
Then Q105, Q107, Q108, Q106. If there is short transistor, then you have short across 470ohm or 100 ohm - blown fuses
Maybe you can remove D115 and D116 and check if this will blow fuses. Then you know if your problem is before them and after them - check schematic.
But most inportant thing, sit down with good light, magnifier lens and check every component on board with bom and every track.
Do you build 2 boards? problem on only one or both?
Check D103, D109, D110, D104. Polarity and short. If wrong this will blow fuses.
Then Q105, Q107, Q108, Q106. If there is short transistor, then you have short across 470ohm or 100 ohm - blown fuses
Maybe you can remove D115 and D116 and check if this will blow fuses. Then you know if your problem is before them and after them - check schematic.
But most inportant thing, sit down with good light, magnifier lens and check every component on board with bom and every track.
Do you build 2 boards? problem on only one or both?
I build a lot of circuits in my life and checked every component before instaling on board, but I made a mistake in my second board of wolverine using wrong transistor. So don't worry, you made a mistake somewhere 🙂: You will find where is, just check everything again and again.
I have 2 pairs of EF3-4 and 1 pair of EF3-3 I’ve started with 1 board of EF3-4 as of now I’ll check all of the above and get back
Double check you reset the bias pots to 500 ohms, and if you can post updated pictures that would really help us
Hello Folks,
I have received the boards for The Wolverine from what I understand to be the third group buy. I'm mulling over the bill of materials and wondering if I can substitute brass sheet metal of the same thickness for the specified aluminum for the three heat sinks required. I have no idea of the thermal dissipation properties of aluminum vs. brass.
Has anyone done this or have any ideas?
Many thanks,
John
I have received the boards for The Wolverine from what I understand to be the third group buy. I'm mulling over the bill of materials and wondering if I can substitute brass sheet metal of the same thickness for the specified aluminum for the three heat sinks required. I have no idea of the thermal dissipation properties of aluminum vs. brass.
Has anyone done this or have any ideas?
Many thanks,
John
Hey guys,
I have taken some close shots of the boards and its components. Please have a look at it. Please point out if any mistakes or if more pictures are required.
Thanks for being patient with me.
All images are below
I have taken some close shots of the boards and its components. Please have a look at it. Please point out if any mistakes or if more pictures are required.
Thanks for being patient with me.
All images are below
Attachments
@fireanimal do I have to remove each diode out from the pcb to check it ?
The fuse I’m using is probably fast blow on the fuse it says “F500mA 250V”
The fuse I’m using is probably fast blow on the fuse it says “F500mA 250V”
I have a 1500W lamp connect in series with 230AC input of my power supply if there were to be be any shorts it would light up almost immediately but it never has so far that’s what makes me wonder where I’ve gone wrong now.
you said it powered up with 750mA fuses but when you changed the fuses they blew, maybe go back to the other fuses in case you got faulty ones...who knows.
When it did power up did you have all the LED's lite including the ones on the OPS by the cap multiplier ?
When it did power up did you have all the LED's lite including the ones on the OPS by the cap multiplier ?
Only 4 LED's on the IPS were LIT, out of which the pair in front of Q7 (D3&12) weren't as bright as the one in front of Q12 (D10&11).
OPS LED's never came on. I will try now with a 750mA fuse
OPS LED's never came on. I will try now with a 750mA fuse
are you sure you installed the diodes in the cap multiplier correctly ? Is there a bias reading at this point now ?