Nice! Do you have to do anything different if you are going to be using the wolverine as a sub amp? Also how long did it take you to put together the first one? I feel that with my limited knowledge of building an amp like this, that it will take me a good amount of time to build. I know the instructions are awesome, but I will probably take my time to not make any fatal mistakes.
Please refer my photo here or in my build album.
build album
Drill a neat hole for the insulated shoulder washer then insert the washer and trim any excess that sticks though the other side.
Attachments
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Ok, installed the plastic washer, powered up, everything looks fine.
Went through the steps in the build guide.
My measurment differs from pointed out in 17.1.G "Measure the voltage between TP-105/TP106 and rail connection".
My build is with C004B transistor for Q101 and A004B for Q102. I'm reading 1,4V in TP105 and 0,64V in TP106.
Not about 1,5V as stated in build guide.
Everything else seems fine. I'm able to adjust ccs, offset and bias.
Went through the steps in the build guide.
My measurment differs from pointed out in 17.1.G "Measure the voltage between TP-105/TP106 and rail connection".
My build is with C004B transistor for Q101 and A004B for Q102. I'm reading 1,4V in TP105 and 0,64V in TP106.
Not about 1,5V as stated in build guide.
Everything else seems fine. I'm able to adjust ccs, offset and bias.
The team manual is quite nice ! I've been building wolverines for a decade now ... really don't need any book.
Sub amp is simple , I'm not using the helper , lower Ic. I actually have another IPS on the wolverine EF3 now.
At 60V rails , the EF3-3 can "unload" all the way into a 4R load and not even come close to SOA.
Couple hours to populate the EF and IPS (1 channel). I took my time and ran both separately before I hooked up a speaker.
I'll, check my build tonight an verify what values I'm getting as I can't remember if the values quoted in the build guide are from the sim or real life.
Maybe some other members can post there voltage values as well so we can compare
Nice! I just placed my order for the boards with Fireanimal!
0.64V at TP106 DMM + and DMM - at V- , somethings not right.
Both my builds using Toshibas for Q101/102 had around 1.4-1.5V at both TP105/106
Rail voltages 63 and 70VDC
Both my builds using Toshibas for Q101/102 had around 1.4-1.5V at both TP105/106
Rail voltages 63 and 70VDC
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Ok, thanks for checking.
Is it temperature dependant? Everything here is just started, no output transistors mounted and not correct bias.
Is it temperature dependant? Everything here is just started, no output transistors mounted and not correct bias.
Meauring my build... Toshibas for Q101/102 had around 1.4-1.5V at both TP105/106 as well.
Rail voltages 64VDC
The measurement would not be affected that much by temperature and not at all by bias unless your current limiting the supply.
Please place a DMM in series with each rail and measure the current draw on each rail. Are you sure the Q102 is correctly orientated?
Rail voltages 64VDC
The measurement would not be affected that much by temperature and not at all by bias unless your current limiting the supply.
Please place a DMM in series with each rail and measure the current draw on each rail. Are you sure the Q102 is correctly orientated?
The shorting from the Q105, or was it Q106 to ground (the previous issue) wouldn't have created a voltage spike somewhere that has opened or shorted a diode in the cap multiplier?
I measured rail amps and got 29-32mA in positive and 32-35mA in negative.
The tip regarding diodes being affected by the short on Q106 made me do some measuring on D112/D114.
They have no forward voltage !! Resistance measurment shows 2 and 13 ohm!
On the other side D111/D113 appears functional, shows 0,55-0,6V.
So next step is to replace D112/D114. Fingers crossed nothing else is blown...
The tip regarding diodes being affected by the short on Q106 made me do some measuring on D112/D114.
They have no forward voltage !! Resistance measurment shows 2 and 13 ohm!
On the other side D111/D113 appears functional, shows 0,55-0,6V.
So next step is to replace D112/D114. Fingers crossed nothing else is blown...