Nice work, great tip @mainframe99The tip regarding diodes being affected by the short on Q106 made me do some measuring on D112/D114.
☕
my logic was - GB 1 - D101, 102 - big. GB 2 - D112,114 - little.
my logic was - GB 1 - D101, 102 - big. GB 2 - D112,114 - little.
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Heres right channel 5W into 8R as installed final in chassis with lid on - the left channel looks distortion identical but there is slightly more 50hz mains noise due to the RCA input wiring running around the whole perimeter of the chassis.
Maybe time for something like this? 🤔
Unfortunately, the boards don't have mirror symmetry anywhere. That's because the output transistors have a particular mechanical relationship to the heatsinks. Everything but the output transistors can be handled without changing the layout, although that would break the thermal coupling of the 6 IPS transistors. Just mount everything on the bottom instead of the top, being careful to turn the transistors and heat sinks appropriately. You'd end up with the CCS transistors tops on the heat sink rather than the proper bottom, but that would not matter much as there is little need for that heatsink anyway.
Then the only mandatory layout change is to swap the emitter and base of the output transistors. That does not look like it would be too difficult. Rotate the emitter and base resistors on the axis in the board plane located at the collector and parallel to the short board dimension. That should result in a layout that is nearly topologically equivalent to the current layout.
Then the only mandatory layout change is to swap the emitter and base of the output transistors. That does not look like it would be too difficult. Rotate the emitter and base resistors on the axis in the board plane located at the collector and parallel to the short board dimension. That should result in a layout that is nearly topologically equivalent to the current layout.
I should have mentioned it doesn't bother me - I could just rotate one board on the heatsink to get both IPS at the back of the chassis, like most builders here have done, but I liked the look of the outputs on top. Thats the penalty, about 5db more 50hz noise - I still can't hear it and don't care. To be fair its inside a chassis with the lid on so what does it matter how it looks inside lol
Will this work with 71v lps? Or is there a better option?
https://www.parts-express.com/Sure-...fier-Board-for-Amplifiers-320-3372?quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/Sure-...fier-Board-for-Amplifiers-320-3372?quantity=1
current wolverine buildHi Stuart, could you send me a link to the photos of your build
Honey Badger build
That looks like a dumpster fire waiting to happen, there are multiple better choices out there. Sorry to be bluntWill this work with 71v lps? Or is there a better option?
https://www.parts-express.com/Sure-...fier-Board-for-Amplifiers-320-3372?quantity=1
Would DIYA universal power supply at the store work better? Or does it not have enough voltage?That looks like a dumpster fire waiting to happen, there are multiple better choices out there. Sorry to be blunt
https://diyaudiostore.com/collections/circuit-boards/products/universal-psu
@fireanimal what is a good option for lps 71v rails dual mono? Is there a good board you can recommend? Do I need 100v caps?
That is a way better option. Its just a board, populated with the correct parts it can handle 71V rails no problem. 80V caps minimum 100V Safe bet
I don't think the 100v caps will fit that board though. At least not the high uf ones. I saw the example psu in pdf format, is their a bom or gerber to go along with it? Or more of an explanation of recommend parts/values? I kind of get the gist of it, but I'm no electrical engineer so it's not very helpful to me. If there's a good way to to fit large caps to diya store psu, that info would work as well. Or just point me to a thread with a psu that will work. I've been searching for a while now and have not found much info for anything above 60v, and only sus ebay units.
I would choose DIYA PSU boards but I’ve also used this one twice, one for Class A amp at +\-24V and a Class AB (like Wolverine) at +\-75Vdc and both work well no issues for more than 2 years. Buy blank boards and buy quality parts, can be used in multiple amp builds. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1652244994...P4bno5HRiy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I had this problem in the past too (if I think we’re talking about the same thing) where all the 10kuf 100v caps are 40mm dia, nothing exists in 35mm afaik, so why oh why are all the PSU rectifier boards all 35mm caps?I don't think the 100v caps will fit that board though. At least not the high uf ones. I saw the example psu in pdf format, is their a bom or gerber to go along with it? Or more of an explanation of recommend parts/values? I kind of get the gist of it, but I'm no electrical engineer so it's not very helpful to me. If there's a good way to to fit large caps to diya store psu, that info would work as well. Or just point me to a thread with a psu that will work. I've been searching for a while now and have not found much info for anything above 60v, and only sus ebay units.
How you get on mate, any joy?I measured rail amps and got 29-32mA in positive and 32-35mA in negative.
The tip regarding diodes being affected by the short on Q106 made me do some measuring on D112/D114.
They have no forward voltage !! Resistance measurment shows 2 and 13 ohm!
On the other side D111/D113 appears functional, shows 0,55-0,6V.
So next step is to replace D112/D114. Fingers crossed nothing else is blown...
G’day Mate!
Thanks for asking and your support!
I really like the fact that I get help from different time zones in this thread! Fast response😀
Didn’t have any diodes so had to order new ones. Hopefully get them this week and post feedback!
Thanks for asking and your support!
I really like the fact that I get help from different time zones in this thread! Fast response😀
Didn’t have any diodes so had to order new ones. Hopefully get them this week and post feedback!
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