Chassis Discussion

I just received my Galaxy 2U steel. Super fast shipping. Solid and attractive case. One thing that it really needs badly are tee nuts to attach the top cover. The provided nuts are loosey goosey in the slot, so you can't remove the screws for the cover and get them back in again. You need to install the screws/nuts in the cover then slide it on from the back, but that means you need to remove the front or back panel. I'm planning on getting some square nuts that will be a little snugger, but a properly sized tee nut would be ideal.
 
I finally got around to ordering a 3U slimline case with the option to customize for the 3 channel amp I am building. I drew some drawings in QCAD (which unfortunately is 2D only). Are these DXF files sufficient to get a customized solution done or do I need to gin up complete 3D CAD files for this? Attached are PDFs of the models I created. The DXF files has more detail than the PDFs, such as milling certain hole cavities. I just saw this Front Panel Designed Tool mentioned which looks to be another option for this.


Yes, Front Panel Express / Schaeffer AG have "Front Panel Designer" which exports to DXF:




And air on the other side? Yes. The chassis/heatsink mounting rails would be visible too. It would be a custom order. Sticking a heatsink on a chassis that doesn't have heatsinks or vice versa would be a total custom job.



Yes. All heatsinks come with the chassis rail mounting holes.
 

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  • FrontPanel.pdf
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  • RearPanel.pdf
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I finally got around to ordering a 3U slimline case with the option to customize for the 3 channel amp I am building. I drew some drawings in QCAD (which unfortunately is 2D only). Are these DXF files sufficient to get a customized solution done or do I need to gin up complete 3D CAD files for this? Attached are PDFs of the models I created. The DXF files has more detail than the PDFs, such as milling certain hole cavities. I just saw this Front Panel Designed Tool mentioned which looks to be another option for this.


Our machine can only import 2D DXF files so your drawings should be ok :)



Your PDFs look ok to me, the only thing you would need to add is the cross-section view of the recesses so we know what it is the actual depth.
 
Thank you Gianluca. That's great. The design is very simple and only has two recessed cuts which I will identify in the DXF file as 2 separate layers!

Also, is it ok to have the CAD file show the diagram from the finished side/outside and not the back side/inside?

Our machine can only import 2D DXF files so your drawings should be ok :)



Your PDFs look ok to me, the only thing you would need to add is the cross-section view of the recesses so we know what it is the actual depth.
 
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I just received my Galaxy 2U steel. Super fast shipping. Solid and attractive case. One thing that it really needs badly are tee nuts to attach the top cover. The provided nuts are loosey goosey in the slot, so you can't remove the screws for the cover and get them back in again. You need to install the screws/nuts in the cover then slide it on from the back, but that means you need to remove the front or back panel. I'm planning on getting some square nuts that will be a little snugger, but a properly sized tee nut would be ideal.

Agree with you entirely regarding the top / bottom cover fasteners. The self tapping screws are a poor fixing method in terms of repeated use and aesthetics in my opinion.

I looked into alternatives in a limited way to get some simple customisation from the factory. For various reasons, including avoiding communication difficulties, I tooled up and invested in a drill press and modified the chassis rails by drilling M6 holes over the existing M3 fastener positions and inserted M4 rivnuts. The cover plates are now fixed with M4 cup head machine screws. Take a look at a First Watt amp and you'll get the flavour of the finished product.
One advantage of the cup heads is that I can do/undo them by hand provided they're not nipped up tight. Very handy during initial power up and set up when the cover plate was being lifted on a regular basis.

I'll post some pics when I get the chance.
 
Thank you astromo. Two thumbs up on that idea. It really should come that way. Expecting you to slide the cover on is very bad design. Cup head = socket/hex head. I haven't used rivnuts before, I would guess a 4mm hole and steel punch. Can you get M4 rivnuts at Home Depot, eBay, China, or maybe my favorite RC Hobby store? I'll need to start looking. I don't have access to a drill press, but I'll try it with a drill guide. Very little risk of causing unsightly damage in the slot.
 
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Agree with you entirely regarding the top / bottom cover fasteners. The self tapping screws are a poor fixing method in terms of repeated use and aesthetics in my opinion.

Actually you guys are talking about different things.

Hifiamps was talking about the Slimline/Galaxy cover attachment mechanism (a nut that slides into the quasi heatsink and then you slide the cover on). He was suggesting replacing the existing nuts with T nuts.

And you are talking about the Pesante Dissipante attachment mechanism (self tapping screws), and replacing the screws with nuts and bolts or something else.

Just pointing this out :) And not the first time people have suggested an alternative way of fastening things. Luckily this is "DIY", but I can assure you the feedback has certainly been passed on.
 
Thanks Jason for pointing that out. I wasn't familiar with rivnuts, and after learning about them and looking closer at the Galaxy quasi heatsink aluminum extrusion side panel, I don't think rivnuts will work. Back to the square nut idea. I guess the Pesante has a C channel type side panel.
 
Actually you guys are talking about different things.

Hifiamps was talking about the Slimline/Galaxy cover attachment mechanism (a nut that slides into the quasi heatsink and then you slide the cover on). He was suggesting replacing the existing nuts with T nuts.

And you are talking about the Pesante Dissipante attachment mechanism (self tapping screws), and replacing the screws with nuts and bolts or something else.

Just pointing this out :) And not the first time people have suggested an alternative way of fastening things. Luckily this is "DIY", but I can assure you the feedback has certainly been passed on.

Apologies and thanks for the pick up. I was on my phone, so I was blinkered as far as the detail is concerned.

I'll still post some pics, so that there's a visual suggestion for others who are interested in different possibilities.
 
OMG, totally missed that. Thanks Jason, will get those added to my order ASAP!

Shoot, I hope I didn't screw up this process (or my CAD drawings!). I just added my DXF files and customization stuff for the 3U Slimline case I had already ordered. Since I did this as two separate purchases I have two purchase orders:

#DAS-10072
#DAS-10105

Looking forward to seeing how the case turns out!
 
I purchased the Pesante 2U case from the diyaudiostore, with the intention of acid-etching the front panel (like I have done for small enclosures), but got cold feet when I received the enclosure and saw how big an area on the front panel I would have to work with.

There was a Mr Majestic thread that included the Front Panel express files for many of the other Hifi2000 store offerings, but it does not have this particular panel. I found the .dxf files on the Hifi2000 website, but the Front Panel importer is expecting just a faceplate and not the full enclosure (in fact, expects a front panel shape .dxf and a separate panel cutout .dxf file). I just get error messages. Is this available somewhere else and I am just missing it?

These would be great to have on the diyaudiostore at the time of ordering; one could work on the front panel while waiting for shipping from Italy.

My concern just doing these from my own measurements is making sure the beveled holes front panel holes line up perfectly and with the correct bevel, since this is required for the stability of the box, which will be rack mounted. I do not have graphics software for .dxf files to edit and make the conversion from the Hifi2000 files.

Thanks in advance,

Mark
 
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Shoot, I hope I didn't screw up this process (or my CAD drawings!). I just added my DXF files and customization stuff for the 3U Slimline case I had already ordered. Since I did this as two separate purchases I have two purchase orders:

#DAS-10072
#DAS-10105

Looking forward to seeing how the case turns out!

For any questions specific to orders, please contact the helpdesk at contact@diyaudiostore.com (you already have a ticket thread there, just keep replying to that). This forum is best for technical questions that might benefit other people or can benefit from other people chiming in with answers.

We do monitor the forum every so often in (presently, arguably a slightly lackluster fashion), while the email helpdesk has proper procedures and ticket tracking in place to ensure nothing is missed or slips through the cracks, and any questions are answered quickly.

Nope, I pulled it into the FPE software and it does not have all 8 holes (4 for the rack mount and 4 for the chassis side rails...

Which exact model, and which faceplate do you want the details of? Pesante 2U, 4mm alu front panel rack mount?