Algar_emi said:
From the same place as the rest of them from this thread:
http://www.zenn.com.sg/mark_levinson_parts.htm
I noticed last week that he said he had one more of them without a transformer, and it turned out to be $90 USD including the shipping from Singapore, so I decided that it would be worth the effort of trying it out, if I can find some sort of interface board to use 🙂
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Brian
Hi Carlos,
I'm finding it difficult to place caps between the +ve and ground as well as the -ve and ground on the ML38 PCB. Would it be the same if I place a cap between the +ve and -ve on the opamp?
Sunny
I'm finding it difficult to place caps between the +ve and ground as well as the -ve and ground on the ML38 PCB. Would it be the same if I place a cap between the +ve and -ve on the opamp?
Sunny
Is that thing so bad?
No, it's not the same...
There must be a ground near, I suppose there are PSU caps around?
From + and - just use a 0.1~0.22uf poly.
I imagine, that thing will look like a mess, but it's under the circuit.
Tell ML guys to do it properly next time.😀
No, it's not the same...
There must be a ground near, I suppose there are PSU caps around?
From + and - just use a 0.1~0.22uf poly.
I imagine, that thing will look like a mess, but it's under the circuit.
Tell ML guys to do it properly next time.😀
Hi Peter, the LM2937 from NS is only having a max current of 500mA while LM2990 from NS is 1.5A. Two questions: -
1. Is 500 mA enough?
2. Does the difference in max current has any effect on the circuit?
Sunny
1. Is 500 mA enough?
2. Does the difference in max current has any effect on the circuit?
Sunny
Hi Carlos,
After examining the PCB of the ML38S, I found that there are already caps ranging 0.01uF to 0.047uF connecting from the +ve and -ve of the opamps to the ground already. If you look at the photo of the PCB, those Wima green caps surrounding the opamps are the ones that I am talking about. In this respect, only those 0.1 uF connecting between +ve and -ve are missing.
1. Do I still need to add electrolytic caps parallel the 0.01uF between +ve and ground as well as -ve to ground?
2. Or I should pull out those 0.01uF caps and replace them with electrolytic caps?
Sunny
After examining the PCB of the ML38S, I found that there are already caps ranging 0.01uF to 0.047uF connecting from the +ve and -ve of the opamps to the ground already. If you look at the photo of the PCB, those Wima green caps surrounding the opamps are the ones that I am talking about. In this respect, only those 0.1 uF connecting between +ve and -ve are missing.
1. Do I still need to add electrolytic caps parallel the 0.01uF between +ve and ground as well as -ve to ground?
2. Or I should pull out those 0.01uF caps and replace them with electrolytic caps?
Sunny
Sunsun22 said:
If Madrigal decided to use them, I believe it's OK. Anyway one regulator runs much warmer than the other, so the difference in current rating is probably beneficial.
Peter,
Thank you for your information.
By the way, if I decided to change one of the opamps into AD823, I need to change the 4 resistors surrounding it from 1K to 100 ohmes.
1. What brand (made) should I consider?
2. What is the brand of those black resistors on 38S showing 0.01%?
Tonight I also measured the voltage around the e-caps on the PCB. All of them are 15 volts only. Does that mean I can use e-caps with 16 volts rating (from BG)?
Sunny
Thank you for your information.
By the way, if I decided to change one of the opamps into AD823, I need to change the 4 resistors surrounding it from 1K to 100 ohmes.
1. What brand (made) should I consider?
2. What is the brand of those black resistors on 38S showing 0.01%?
Tonight I also measured the voltage around the e-caps on the PCB. All of them are 15 volts only. Does that mean I can use e-caps with 16 volts rating (from BG)?
Sunny
Hi Upupa,
I believe when one reached to the level of Hi-Fi, it is not a matter of which equipment is better than which equipment. Someone dislike ML because of too plain, no MSG. It is only personal taste. Some people still wants to stick to tubes.
Sunny
I believe when one reached to the level of Hi-Fi, it is not a matter of which equipment is better than which equipment. Someone dislike ML because of too plain, no MSG. It is only personal taste. Some people still wants to stick to tubes.
Sunny
You don't really need to change those resistors and AD823 will work fine with 1k resistors. The resistors are from Vishay. I used 192 ohm Vishay VTA55, but anything should work here. If you want the best I would go for Vishay S102, but those be expensive, other alternative may be Caddocks MK132.Sunsun22 said:
Technically, you can use 16V rated caps on 15V rails. Some recommend at least 25% margin, but if you don't have higher rated parts, I don't see a problem here.
Upupa Epops said:
Hi Pavel,
Actually you have to touch it to make the best out of it (I mean modding here)😉
BTW, I got your board today, and it's quite impressive. The amount of thought that went into design is spectacular. How it will sound is to be still judged. I'm sending you a small packet today.