Regulators
Hi Peter,
What type of regulators from National did you use ?
Ever tried LT1963(A)' s?
The cheap stinking normal 78xx types in this multi-Dollar preamp
keep surprising me. 😉
Peter Daniel said:
I also replaced original regulators, 78xx type, for low dropout type (from National), used in 38 to 380 upgrade.
Hi Peter,
What type of regulators from National did you use ?
Ever tried LT1963(A)' s?
The cheap stinking normal 78xx types in this multi-Dollar preamp
keep surprising me. 😉
Please don't use the OPA627 or the OPA2132/4 there.
It will not sound good.
PSU bypassing on the op-amps is
.
It will not sound good.
PSU bypassing on the op-amps is

Power Supply Bypassing
Hi Carlos,
Power supply bypassing on op-amps is extremely important. Why do you think it is ""
"" in this preamp?
carlosfm said:Please don't use the OPA627 or the OPA2132/4 there.
It will not sound good.
PSU bypassing on the op-amps is.
Hi Carlos,
Power supply bypassing on op-amps is extremely important. Why do you think it is ""

Re: Power Supply Bypassing
These op-amps need capacitance on the PSU pins, and a small bypass.
I repeat: as near as possible to the PSU pins.
They will sound bad otherwise, and what I see here doesn't inspire any confidence to use these op-amps, I know they will not sound good, anywhere near of what they can deliver.
Read this page:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...928&perpage=10&highlight=bypass&pagenumber=34
and also post #341 here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...928&perpage=10&highlight=bypass&pagenumber=35
Elso Kwak said:Hi Carlos,
Power supply bypassing on op-amps is extremely important. Why do you think it is """" in this preamp?
These op-amps need capacitance on the PSU pins, and a small bypass.
I repeat: as near as possible to the PSU pins.
They will sound bad otherwise, and what I see here doesn't inspire any confidence to use these op-amps, I know they will not sound good, anywhere near of what they can deliver.
Read this page:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...928&perpage=10&highlight=bypass&pagenumber=34
and also post #341 here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...928&perpage=10&highlight=bypass&pagenumber=35
The newer 380S is using OPA627 replacing LT1217 and a AD823 replacing one of the OPA2604 (with changes on the R value). It should not sound bad if ML is choosing them.
Sunsun22 said:The newer 380S is using OPA627 replacing LT1217...
😀
I like it.

But don't try them with adapters on your pre, they don't like it.
Or make some adapters with bypassing, and a wire for ground.
Here's the pic of how I mounted the rectifiers. As I've been using those MUR860 a lot, I tried them here as well and they sound very good.
As to the caps after regulators, I found that 1000/50V BG N sound the best. I tried some Panasonic for audio (6,800u), Technics for Audio (3,300) as well as Nichicon Pure Gold (4,700u) and I noticed that the absolute capacitance is not that much improtant for the sound, but the type of caps used.
BG N sounded best, followed by BG STD, then Technics, Panasonic and Nichicons were the last I would use from the whole bunch.
As to the caps after regulators, I found that 1000/50V BG N sound the best. I tried some Panasonic for audio (6,800u), Technics for Audio (3,300) as well as Nichicon Pure Gold (4,700u) and I noticed that the absolute capacitance is not that much improtant for the sound, but the type of caps used.
BG N sounded best, followed by BG STD, then Technics, Panasonic and Nichicons were the last I would use from the whole bunch.
Re: Regulators
I'm using LM2937 and LM2990. This is part of 38 to 380 upgrade, and they indeed sound much better than 78xx.
I never tried LT1963, yet.
Elso Kwak said:
Hi Peter,
What type of regulators from National did you use ?
Ever tried LT1963(A)' s?
The cheap stinking normal 78xx types in this multi-Dollar preamp
keep surprising me. 😉
I'm using LM2937 and LM2990. This is part of 38 to 380 upgrade, and they indeed sound much better than 78xx.
I never tried LT1963, yet.
Hi Peter, the pic is missing.
BTW, what is the diode that you are using now? I am still missing how does the Vishey look like. Can you also post a pic of it?
Sunny
BTW, what is the diode that you are using now? I am still missing how does the Vishey look like. Can you also post a pic of it?
Sunny
Here you go; http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=390344
Those are the diodes I'm using now: MUR860
Those are the diodes I'm using now: MUR860
Here's Vishay/ROE caps pic: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=427336
You might also check this site and download high res images (5Meg) http://www.marklevinson.com/image_library/index.asp?categoryID=7&productID=9
You might also check this site and download high res images (5Meg) http://www.marklevinson.com/image_library/index.asp?categoryID=7&productID=9
Thanks Carlos, does it mean I need to put two caps between 4 and ground as well as 7 and ground?
Sunny
Sunny
Hey Peter, you are pretty fast.
The high res photo is not available from ML website anymore. I can see the changes of caps in the Lo res pic.
I see you are having some marks on the Vishey caps. Are they polar caps? Where can I buy them from US?
Do you mind telling me the diode that you are using too?
Sunny
The high res photo is not available from ML website anymore. I can see the changes of caps in the Lo res pic.
I see you are having some marks on the Vishey caps. Are they polar caps? Where can I buy them from US?
Do you mind telling me the diode that you are using too?
Sunny
Peter, the diode I'm talking about is the 16 diodes such as the one installed as CR4404. Or the diodes that you are talking about is the AC rectifiers MU860?
Sunny
Sunny
Sunsun22 said:Thanks Carlos, does it mean I need to put two caps between 4 and ground as well as 7 and ground?
Sunny
Yes.😉
And also a 0.1~0.22uf poly between + and -.
Of course, you need to put them under the circuit, as the circuit doesn't have place for them.🙄
Sharing electrolythic caps between several op-amps it not the way to do it, if you want to get the best out of the best op-amps.

When everything's ok, start testing better op-amps.😎
My god, is this a Mark-Levinson?😱
Well... do it, let it playin' for some days, the caps need to

Then, pick the op-amp that you sounds better to you on that circuit.
High res pics work on ML site, you just have to us "save target as" command and download them first.
The rect. diodes I'm using are MUR860.
The rect. diodes I'm using are MUR860.
No need for fancy or expensive caps here.
The secret is how and where you use them.
Use good ones, but no need for BGs.
The secret is how and where you use them.
Use good ones, but no need for BGs.
Interesting. Did you add all the sockets, or were they already on the pcb?
I ordered a ML38 board yesterday, and will see what this thing is about.
--
Brian
Whenever I experiment with bypass caps, I usually install those sockets, so I can try different caps without soldering.
The black stripe means outer foil (I measured them). The caps usually sound better when outer foil is connected to the ground.
The black stripe means outer foil (I measured them). The caps usually sound better when outer foil is connected to the ground.
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