what's wrong with some reading , when you have almost all answers already prepared?
https://www.firstwatt.com/prod.html
https://www.firstwatt.com/articles.html
anyhow:
Attachments
Thanks again. Sorry if I'm asking trivial or not specific enough questions.
I tried to draw a diagram to summarize my situation. I hope this is understandable.
switch : https://www.audiophonics.fr/fr/inte...ux-bleu-1no1nc-250v-5a-o19mm-noir-p-9769.html
https://www.audiophonics.fr/fr/inte...rupteur-et-bouton-poussoir-o19mm-p-11181.html
I tried to draw a diagram to summarize my situation. I hope this is understandable.
switch : https://www.audiophonics.fr/fr/inte...ux-bleu-1no1nc-250v-5a-o19mm-noir-p-9769.html
https://www.audiophonics.fr/fr/inte...rupteur-et-bouton-poussoir-o19mm-p-11181.html
I don't read French very well, but I do recognize the "1NO1NC" ... and I know what it is.
Read this... it is the very first return from a search I ran for "What is a 1NO1NC switch"
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/30952/can-you-clarify-what-an-1no1nc-switch-is
See if that helps... point out from the switch you purchased which contacts you think are NO vs. NC. Then describe which you want to use and why. Then... it will maybe solve itself.
That is how I might solve the riddle.
We're all here to help, not make you solve riddles, but I think you can figure it out. If not... please ask more questions.
Read this... it is the very first return from a search I ran for "What is a 1NO1NC switch"
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/30952/can-you-clarify-what-an-1no1nc-switch-is
See if that helps... point out from the switch you purchased which contacts you think are NO vs. NC. Then describe which you want to use and why. Then... it will maybe solve itself.
That is how I might solve the riddle.
We're all here to help, not make you solve riddles, but I think you can figure it out. If not... please ask more questions.
No... you're not asking riddles. You're asking very clear questions. I wish we did not have to make you solve a riddle. I don't have enough information to provide a full answer. So, I must give you pieces of how I may solve the problem. Once you have more information about the switch, you can either solve the problem yourself, or you can post the information here for us to help.
The critical part is that you learn a little. If you can't solve it yourself, you must identify for us the contacts and wire colors associated with NO, and the contacts and wire colors that are associated with NC. Without that... or a willingness to experiment on your part, we can't help much further. Someone may be willing to look up the specifications for the exact switch you purchased to help further.
Have fun!
Edited to add - OK... if you are willing to experiment or try... and if you are familiar with how to use your DMM in continuity mode... and if you understand...
Do this. Use your DMM to test which contacts are for the NO operation of the switch, and which contacts are for the NC operation of the switch. If you don't understand that, read the article linked or see if there is a French equivalent. I don't want to assume that English is easy for you to read, but you may do it very well.
Edited one more time... sorry! Also, it is very important to know if the switch is momentary or a maintained contact switch.
The critical part is that you learn a little. If you can't solve it yourself, you must identify for us the contacts and wire colors associated with NO, and the contacts and wire colors that are associated with NC. Without that... or a willingness to experiment on your part, we can't help much further. Someone may be willing to look up the specifications for the exact switch you purchased to help further.
Have fun!
Edited to add - OK... if you are willing to experiment or try... and if you are familiar with how to use your DMM in continuity mode... and if you understand...
Do this. Use your DMM to test which contacts are for the NO operation of the switch, and which contacts are for the NC operation of the switch. If you don't understand that, read the article linked or see if there is a French equivalent. I don't want to assume that English is easy for you to read, but you may do it very well.
Edited one more time... sorry! Also, it is very important to know if the switch is momentary or a maintained contact switch.
Last edited:
OK - Now do one more thing... then you can likely figure it out...
Do you want the switch to be "normally open"?
Do you want the switch to be "normally closed"?
Most people have a preference, but ... it is your amplifier. Plus, you should really understand what this means. It is important. I promise I will tell you what I think, but you should know what this does and how to use it.
You maybe did not see it, but I asked one other VERY important question...
Lastly, please confirm that someone you trust has verified that this particular switch is rated properly for how you will use it. I am not qualified to do that. It's your safety.
Edited to add - LOL! - If I blather on enough, Mighty ZM will save the day. See his comment re: my last request for confirmation.
Do you want the switch to be "normally open"?
Do you want the switch to be "normally closed"?
Most people have a preference, but ... it is your amplifier. Plus, you should really understand what this means. It is important. I promise I will tell you what I think, but you should know what this does and how to use it.
You maybe did not see it, but I asked one other VERY important question...
Lastly, please confirm that someone you trust has verified that this particular switch is rated properly for how you will use it. I am not qualified to do that. It's your safety.
Edited to add - LOL! - If I blather on enough, Mighty ZM will save the day. See his comment re: my last request for confirmation.
As ZM said this switch will let you down unless it operates a heavier relay. It’s rated for 12VDC. Unless it latches it will need a one shot multi vibrator relay thingy to work properly. I’ve got them in tube amps but they don’t do the heavy lifting. Also the board/switch will need its own power supply. Adds a bit of complication. They sure look nice though.
Where did you see a rating? I had been looking. If they bought the one they linked earlier in #1073, it's rated for 250VAC 3A, but ... they haven't posted a spec sheet for what was actually purchased, and it looks different than the picture.
Thanks!!!
Edited to add... I have a 'few' extras of Mark Johnson's H9KPXG boards fully built... they were intended to go to BAF, but I wasn't able to make it. So, they'll be up in the swap meet when I get a chance.
My bad. I saw the 12VDC requirement to light the switch. I assume this is a latching and not a momentary switch? He'll still 12VDC for the light.
BTW I've about got the PS board stuffed for my Aleph J. Using discrete diodes. Now where did I put that CheapoModo?
BTW I've about got the PS board stuffed for my Aleph J. Using discrete diodes. Now where did I put that CheapoModo?
you can talk whatever you want about that switch, but one thing is sure - it'll last no longer than a month, if put in Aleph J
if good quality
if drek, few cycles
if good quality
if drek, few cycles
Is it possible to connect the LED of this switch to an 18V secondary output of the amplifier's transformer? Or do you need a dedicated transformer?
https://www.audiophonics.fr/fr/inte...le-lumineux-bleu-250v-o19mm-noir-p-17172.html
https://www.audiophonics.fr/fr/inte...le-lumineux-bleu-250v-o19mm-noir-p-17172.html
that switch is not sturdy enough for your amp, if you're going to use it directly for mains switching