These are all spoken for and on the way to other Iron Pre builders!
I never have any space. Finished the XSD speaker, almost finished wiring the XA 252 amplifier, second DCG3 pre amp, plus J2, F7, Sissysit in beginning stages. This little pre won't take much room at all. Only fabrication is putting parts in already cut and drilled chassis and wiring . I've built one iron pre that is running already, but it doesn't have the"twister" led business like this one will.
You know Russ, I am not the type that is so sold on the twister LED thing. To me, a simple selector switch with positions marked on the front panel is fine. I only wired enough for 4 LEDS anyway, including what might be an input for a phone. I do like the relay idea though. Never had used them before.
The main attraction for me was the audio transformers. Pretty hooked on their sound.
The main attraction for me was the audio transformers. Pretty hooked on their sound.
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So, a question. What is more likely>> A pot that jumps to a higher volume 1/3 of the way on its rotation or is this a sign of some kind of other trouble with the board? I have mono pots for volume and balance and they are even until about 1/3 of the rotation where one 'springs' up the volume suddenly. After that I think that the volume increases more correctly. If it means anything, these are 20k older Noble pots that I bought used. The preamp is set to 6Db gain which is great for my system sensitivity.
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Kevin,
Funny that you mention it, I was thinking about your connections during the consideration of what I would have to do. OTOH, I do tend to make things bigger than they are. Something about soldering a connection more than once bothers me. FWIW, I did leave these wires longer than usual, as if I were sensing something like Murphy watching over my shoulder.
Funny that you mention it, I was thinking about your connections during the consideration of what I would have to do. OTOH, I do tend to make things bigger than they are. Something about soldering a connection more than once bothers me. FWIW, I did leave these wires longer than usual, as if I were sensing something like Murphy watching over my shoulder.
I realized eons ago that Pa spoiled Greedy Boyz too much, now they taking any and all liberties
Yup, ZM blaming Pa, again
Kevin, I think that I would like to try a wire wrap connector for my next build. I am curious about the pins that you have soldered to the board.
If you decide to try these there's a little tip I can share:
When soldering the spades to the board, I go thru and install ALL of them "willy nilly"...meaning as long as they're in the hole it doesn't matter how straight they are. Then I go back, re-heat and straighten with a needle nose. When you re-heat do it without holding the spade with the pliers (which will wick away the heat), then quickly grab the spade while pulling the iron away this still gives you a second to make adjustments.
Also, in order to to crimp the tab properly you need the fancy tool made for that purpose...not the $200 one, just the $30 one. Then I go though and solder the wire inside the crimp, it flows in there no problem.
When soldering the spades to the board, I go thru and install ALL of them "willy nilly"...meaning as long as they're in the hole it doesn't matter how straight they are. Then I go back, re-heat and straighten with a needle nose. When you re-heat do it without holding the spade with the pliers (which will wick away the heat), then quickly grab the spade while pulling the iron away this still gives you a second to make adjustments.
Also, in order to to crimp the tab properly you need the fancy tool made for that purpose...not the $200 one, just the $30 one. Then I go though and solder the wire inside the crimp, it flows in there no problem.
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Looking closer, I see that you indeed used this type of connector for all connections. For some reason I assumed that you had used a post type for the signal wires. Your right, it difficult to get them straight. Sometimes you can the exact type that will 'pop' into the hole that you want to use, but usually it can be a hit and miss sort of thing.
I don't think I've ever had a problem with the spade being to big for the hole. It's usually the other way around, but the spade has a little shoulder on it that prevents it from going right through the hole. I guess if it was a via intended for a really small wire it might be a problem...but I've never run into that.
Well the signal wires don't have a very large hole that's for sure. Did you use different connectors for those as compared to power connections that are larger holes?
