good that I'm not Moderator here
or you spaders will be all banned for good, already
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met with too much of them in nearly 3 decades of service workYou should try them once ZM…they won’t bite you, promise. 🤞
Yeah, I know what you’re saying…I only have spades out in the field going back seven years or so and at the beginning I was only using a crimp with no solder. I do go back, inspect, and “touch-up” my amps every couple years…even the ones I build for others.
Every type of connection has its drawbacks, and yet many of those drawbacks are often caused by the installer himself. I won't go into detail here. Just look around to witness poor or improper work by so many that gets the job done but not for long. I have seen few circuit boards that are designed to handle the likely physical stress caused by some connectors when first making the connection. I do prefer the wire wrap connection because it can be removed without heat or stress and if done properly to begin with, has a reputable connection.
Just think about any connection and the challenges that it may face from everything from vibration to heat in some cases to even possible chemical reactions. What type of wire used for the connection is also of importance, mechanically speaking.
Just think about any connection and the challenges that it may face from everything from vibration to heat in some cases to even possible chemical reactions. What type of wire used for the connection is also of importance, mechanically speaking.
At least twice in this thread there has been part numbers given for the IEC plug/one-off switch that fits the Iron Pre chassis. (Very nice by the way.)
I relocated the one for unit with mains filter built in. I swear another one listed schurter part numbers, one for single fuse, one double fuse.
Prefer double fuse, but main thing is that it needs to fit this hole in Modushop SE Iron Pre chassis
I relocated the one for unit with mains filter built in. I swear another one listed schurter part numbers, one for single fuse, one double fuse.
Prefer double fuse, but main thing is that it needs to fit this hole in Modushop SE Iron Pre chassis
Not there. I saw some links that indicated SE BOM, but links don't link to anything, putting in search bar failed. I ordered one and a fuse tray that another member posted. Ordered the Neutrix RCAs as well.
I meant the spec sheet for the Schurter PEM you were looking at. Various people (including me) have posted several modules that fit.I didn't know there was a spec sheet! Thanks. To post #1!
If you want a dual fused drawer... you need to check the spec sheet (available from whomever you're buying the PEM from or Schurter website). Within the spec sheet, you will see options for part numbers for various fuse drawers... pick the dual fuse drawer that you like the most. 🙂
Not there. I saw some links that indicated SE BOM, but links don't link to anything, putting in search bar failed. I ordered one and a fuse tray that another member posted. Ordered the Neutrix RCAs as well.
Sorry for the confusion... not in post #1. Glad you found one. 🙂
I just assumed I had missed the obvious in post one! Zenmod always telling me look at first post....on his items.
I'm a knucklehead. Am I working on learning....Yes. Will I get it all anytime soon....not a chance.
Thanks Omnigentle ZM! Some of us take longer to absorb all this fantastic knowledge than others.
Thanks Omnigentle ZM! Some of us take longer to absorb all this fantastic knowledge than others.
I did. Thing is, I have one! I will have to check and see which one I used on first Iron pre. Otherwise, order the 20 VA version. I guess 18 volts, or 15 volts?ZM suggested 20VAC as more oomph not needed and means more possible interference. See post #3184 a couple pages back.
You mean 20 vaZM suggested 20VAC as more oomph not needed and means more possible interference. See post #3184 a couple pages back.
....I'm wondering on volts
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