I have a DD12.9111.111 power entry module on hand from another project that I would like to use for the Iron Pre, but it's too big to fit in the modushop chassis. @MEPER am I right that that you removed the external metal enclosure from the power entry module? If so, how? I haven't yet resorted to a crowbar, but I'm not seeing how go get the metal off. I was about to order the DD12.1121.111 but from the spec sheet it looks like I'll run into the same fit issue. Would prefer to not deal with cutting the hole bigger if I can avoid it.
Also, for anyone that has built a balanced version with the modushop chassis and ZM's preferred method of extension rods for the volume pots, I'd be curious to see how you did the layout. I'm trying to figure out how best to accommodate everything in the chassis. Thanks!
I would rather take a file in hand, than anything needed to remove casing of IEC module, then to deal with isolation issues
many times, it's better to choose what's better option than to choose what's easier ............ and in many cases wrong analysis of problem leads to actually harder, not easier solution
do filing work from inside side of back plate, prior to munting it to rest of case, so to avoid face side scratching
How are you trying to mount it? It mounts from the inside, so the backplate is flush. See example pics.
If it does not fit, I'd contact Gianluca. He's a delight to work with, and I'm sure a solution can be found.
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Wow, thank you all for catching me in a major dunce of a moment there! It's amazing the blinders I can put on in my thinking sometimes. The notion that the IEC could mount from the inside did not cross my mind one bit (and now I see that's what @MEPER was describing - I completely misread the post). Thanks for your patient explanation and counsel, and for preventing me from doing something even more stupid!
Wanted to add my thanks to ZM and IAIMH for making this gem available to us and all of you early builders for simplying the process for us plodders. Simply put the Iron Pre it sounds great when added to the Sissysits! I completed the conventional build with an Alps pot to verify everything was working. Using 12 dB gain as have relatively inefficient speakers (86 dB). Plays plenty loud and I can listen at lower volumes without needing to push the volume to hear nuance and detail. Lived with the Alps for a few days and inspired by Timkrone posts 1104 and 1561 went ahead with the Academy Audio Muses volume control that somehow had intimidated me. Used the VCX Micro. As it needs plus minus 14V and I didn't want to add donut or tap off power supply for Iron pre so I used their power supply- LPS9. It is powered by 5V wall wart. Added a jack in rear and it is switched by the front panel switch.
I had to extend wires for the digital display and also unsolder and place the ir receiver next to the display. I also had window cut in front panel to accommodate. So now have functional remote and in my opinion it sounds better with more detail than the Alps pot.
It powers up in standby and the volume range is 60-100. A bit odd but is very smooth and very convenient.
The Iron Pre replaced a DCG3 and Korg nutube and to my ear sounds great. Finding that I'm drawn in for extended listening.
Sweet without the need for insulin and spooky. Kudos! and much thanks!
I had to extend wires for the digital display and also unsolder and place the ir receiver next to the display. I also had window cut in front panel to accommodate. So now have functional remote and in my opinion it sounds better with more detail than the Alps pot.
It powers up in standby and the volume range is 60-100. A bit odd but is very smooth and very convenient.
The Iron Pre replaced a DCG3 and Korg nutube and to my ear sounds great. Finding that I'm drawn in for extended listening.
Sweet without the need for insulin and spooky. Kudos! and much thanks!
Trying to figure out best layout for a balanced IP that achieves the goal of short connections between volume pot and pcb and neat/clean wiring elsewhere. Attaching some photos with the configurations I've come up with. Here's my thoughts on each one:
1. I like the horizontal layout of the boards but nothing seems gained here by mounting the volume pots on extenders. Also, is there any disadvantage to having longer signal wiring runs from the PBC to the inputs?
2. I'm curious what people more knowledgeable than me think about this one? Initially it seemed strange to have one pot mounted on an extender and the other directly to the front panel, but it would achieve roughly equidistant - and relatively close - wiring from the volume pots to the PCBs. It would also allow for very clean wiring from the toroids to the PCBs. My concern here is the long signal wires from pcb to input jacks, but if that's not an issue...
3. I like how clean and tidy this one is, but worried the left board is too close to the transformers?
4. Better than #3 in terms of board proximity to transformers but signal wiring with the extender brackets in the way gets messy. Not as elegant or as clean as I would like.
I saw someone post a few pages back a build where they stacked their boards on top of each other, so that's another option I'm considering.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated! Thanks.
1. I like the horizontal layout of the boards but nothing seems gained here by mounting the volume pots on extenders. Also, is there any disadvantage to having longer signal wiring runs from the PBC to the inputs?
2. I'm curious what people more knowledgeable than me think about this one? Initially it seemed strange to have one pot mounted on an extender and the other directly to the front panel, but it would achieve roughly equidistant - and relatively close - wiring from the volume pots to the PCBs. It would also allow for very clean wiring from the toroids to the PCBs. My concern here is the long signal wires from pcb to input jacks, but if that's not an issue...
3. I like how clean and tidy this one is, but worried the left board is too close to the transformers?
4. Better than #3 in terms of board proximity to transformers but signal wiring with the extender brackets in the way gets messy. Not as elegant or as clean as I would like.
I saw someone post a few pages back a build where they stacked their boards on top of each other, so that's another option I'm considering.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated! Thanks.
4, but move both pcbs all tjhe way right, to keep them away of Donuts
have you Boyz any decent xformer mnfctrr in US of A, to buy some 10VA jobies, instead of forcing 1KW Donuts in preamp?
or is it peanut Donut in gallon sized pot?
you can spin those L brackets for pots to back, no reason to keep floor section under pcbs
have you Boyz any decent xformer mnfctrr in US of A, to buy some 10VA jobies, instead of forcing 1KW Donuts in preamp?
or is it peanut Donut in gallon sized pot?
you can spin those L brackets for pots to back, no reason to keep floor section under pcbs
I was a fan of the stacked boards idea and was considering going that route. Is there a compelling reason to avoid that idea?
Iron Pre (balanced) is up soon for me so I'm curious if I should be getting a pair of 10VA 2x18 volt Antek (AN-0118), or stick with a pair of the 25VA 2x18 (AN-0218)? I have a pair of the latter on hand already.
Iron Pre (balanced) is up soon for me so I'm curious if I should be getting a pair of 10VA 2x18 volt Antek (AN-0118), or stick with a pair of the 25VA 2x18 (AN-0218)? I have a pair of the latter on hand already.
it is not if they're having lamb character
if they're emitting magnetic drek around, you're in trouble