hardware store, elements for house building in your neck of wood, for 2*2 and 4*4, if I remember terminology
@GKTAUDIO
So this is made from just a flat strip of aluminum or steel, bent, drilled, slotted? I though it might have been an odd the shelf part for something else that was repurchased as a potentiometer mount.
I'll probably go with 3D printed route out vs metal fab for simplicity+customizable, but a repurposed off the shelf part would be ideal.
[Edit]: Thanks Zen Mod, that's a good suggestion. I'll check online at local big box stores (Lowes, Home Depot in my neck of the woods) for lumber bracketry that works.
[2nd Edit]: Well, I searched for "slotted L bracket" online and found lots of good options for cheap. Amazon had lots of options.
So this is made from just a flat strip of aluminum or steel, bent, drilled, slotted? I though it might have been an odd the shelf part for something else that was repurchased as a potentiometer mount.
I'll probably go with 3D printed route out vs metal fab for simplicity+customizable, but a repurposed off the shelf part would be ideal.
[Edit]: Thanks Zen Mod, that's a good suggestion. I'll check online at local big box stores (Lowes, Home Depot in my neck of the woods) for lumber bracketry that works.
[2nd Edit]: Well, I searched for "slotted L bracket" online and found lots of good options for cheap. Amazon had lots of options.
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I would not bother with a slot, just measure your hole location properly. You could drill an oversized hole and use flat washers if you don't have accurate means of measuring. You could use aluminum, but it must be a malleable type or it will crack at a 90 degree bend. Thin steel is easier in this regard.
Not aware of any off-the-shelf right angle, slotted pot brackets, but it seems there should be some available. Since I have a pretty good metalworking shop and tools, and no 3d printer (or skills), I'd whip up a couple brackets in metal rather than search and wait. Go with what you have available!
Oh, and ZM's idea is also a good one - you can get galvanized stud hanger brackets from a hardware store and cut them down, then drill the holes where you want them. They will have screw holes already, but likely not where you need them. Or, just buy some flat bar steel and bend/drill. Sounds like the 3d printing is more in your wheelhouse though.
Not aware of any off-the-shelf right angle, slotted pot brackets, but it seems there should be some available. Since I have a pretty good metalworking shop and tools, and no 3d printer (or skills), I'd whip up a couple brackets in metal rather than search and wait. Go with what you have available!
Oh, and ZM's idea is also a good one - you can get galvanized stud hanger brackets from a hardware store and cut them down, then drill the holes where you want them. They will have screw holes already, but likely not where you need them. Or, just buy some flat bar steel and bend/drill. Sounds like the 3d printing is more in your wheelhouse though.
Thank you for that info. I had purchased both 50VA and 20VA and was going with the incorrect "bigger is better" approach for the SE version.
Can you explain (or point me in the right direction) best way to shield a terminal block, or other preferred approaches to minimize EMI? All I recall from the build guide from 6L6, it just mentions placement of transformer and wiring.
just mount some plastic cover on top, to prevent Fingerpoken troubles
EMI is not an issue
EMI is not an issue
As I wander about my shop, there are a few different L shaped metal brackets and such. At the hardware store, they sell them ready made and different sizes, although I would still cut the bottom of the L to a shorter length and drill my own hole. Probably would end up drilling for the shaft as well. All in all, if you have a vise and a strip of steel, the problem solves itself.
My only complaint is the top/bottom plates don't fasten to the back plate. The bottom plate sags and leaves a gap when weighed down with hardware. A couple of L-brackets would fix it, but those should be included and holes should come pre-drilled IMO.
Thanks for mentioning that. I am a real stickler for having a very solid chassis to start with. It is not unusual for me to add bracing, or as you mentioned, brackets if needed to attach one plate to another. I agree with you about that sort of thing to be included, especially if it is a front panel. Yes the rear panel too, but the front panel would be harder to do by way of DIY. I suppose that you could add a thick bar to the top panel and then run rods down to the bottom panel, but really?
I have 4 ribbon cables and their headers for connection of the twister board left over from my build. The ribbon cable is 12.5" long.
In the diyAudio spirit if you live in the contiguous USA I'd be happy to mail you one cable and two headers for free. Just PM me with your address!
First come first serve. 😎
In the diyAudio spirit if you live in the contiguous USA I'd be happy to mail you one cable and two headers for free. Just PM me with your address!
First come first serve. 😎
Hello,
Khozmo has shunt type attenuator for cheaper.
Dose it make problem for impedances?
https://khozmo.com/product/vishay-smd/
Khozmo has shunt type attenuator for cheaper.
Dose it make problem for impedances?
https://khozmo.com/product/vishay-smd/
impedance of Vol Pot is matter of sources capability to drive it
nowadays 10K is high enough for most proper sources
nowadays 10K is high enough for most proper sources
Thank you.
I was wondering that shunt type impedance changes and how important for the circuit than if I could use Rin for zfoil.
There are series,shunt and step ladder type to chose.
I was wondering that shunt type impedance changes and how important for the circuit than if I could use Rin for zfoil.
There are series,shunt and step ladder type to chose.