"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide

Hi all. I just finished my „experiment“ which was to add a DAC to my already existing whammy.
I share it with the community because it might be if some interest for others.
As DAC, I choose the Khadas Tone 1 because it has the size to mount it on top of the PSU caps. I wanted to keep the chassis as small as possible.
The Tone 1 is an excellent sounding DAC. As opamp I used the Muses 8920, in my opinion one of the best sounding opamps for a really reasonable price.
The Tone1 needs 5 V power supply. Normally it receives its power from the connected USB host. But if you use the spdif input, you would be required to connect a usb power supply. Not the best solution. So I added a mini high quality switched power supply. It is the black cube next to the transformer. I was curious if that would implement distortion. But everything is absolutely clean. No audible noise, hum or so and the measurements with the scope are also very good.
All in all an excellent sounding headamp, preamp and DAC
 

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Hi all. I just finished my „experiment“ which was to add a DAC to my already existing whammy.
I share it with the community because it might be if some interest for others.
As DAC, I choose the Khadas Tone 1 because it has the size to mount it on top of the PSU caps. I wanted to keep the chassis as small as possible.
The Tone 1 is an excellent sounding DAC. As opamp I used the Muses 8920, in my opinion one of the best sounding opamps for a really reasonable price.
The Tone1 needs 5 V power supply. Normally it receives its power from the connected USB host. But if you use the spdif input, you would be required to connect a usb power supply. Not the best solution. So I added a mini high quality switched power supply. It is the black cube next to the transformer. I was curious if that would implement distortion. But everything is absolutely clean. No audible noise, hum or so and the measurements with the scope are also very good.
All in all an excellent sounding headamp, preamp and DAC
Nice work! I'm impressed you fit it all in the standard enclosure.

I'm glad you're happy with the Toneboard, there doesn't seem to be many other compact board only DACs available.
 
The comments button does not work on the Builders Guide. What is the bast method to provide feedback for clarifying the build guide?

I have a few comments. A small one assembling the heatsinks:

FYI… Bullet point 4 says “think” layer of heatsink compound instead of “thick” think layer of heatsink compound.
 
Hi all. I just finished my „experiment“ which was to add a DAC to my already existing whammy.
I share it with the community because it might be if some interest for others.
As DAC, I choose the Khadas Tone 1 because it has the size to mount it on top of the PSU caps. I wanted to keep the chassis as small as possible.
The Tone 1 is an excellent sounding DAC. As opamp I used the Muses 8920, in my opinion one of the best sounding opamps for a really reasonable price.
The Tone1 needs 5 V power supply. Normally it receives its power from the connected USB host. But if you use the spdif input, you would be required to connect a usb power supply. Not the best solution. So I added a mini high quality switched power supply. It is the black cube next to the transformer. I was curious if that would implement distortion. But everything is absolutely clean. No audible noise, hum or so and the measurements with the scope are also very good.
All in all an excellent sounding headamp, preamp and DAC
Nice work.

Nice way of implementing the DAC,
Removing the RCAs makes it much easier to accomodate.
 
Hey guys I desperately need some help with the C26. I am not experienced in PCB soldering. I think it is very possible that I just damaged the PCB "little gold ring" of C26. Now the solder cannot be melted and stick to the C26 negative hole. I have seen people using a extra line to "bypass ( I guess)" some parts of the PCB. Cam I use similar method to solve my current situation. I really dont wanna start from the beginning to make a new whammy pcb.
 
Hey guys I desperately need some help with the C26. I am not experienced in PCB soldering. I think it is very possible that I just damaged the PCB "little gold ring" of C26. Now the solder cannot be melted and stick to the C26 negative hole. I have seen people using a extra line to "bypass ( I guess)" some parts of the PCB. Cam I use similar method to solve my current situation. I really dont wanna start from the beginning to make a new whammy pcb.
Can you share two pictures:

One showing the top of C26 solder pads, and one showing showing the bottom side of those same pads
 
My diy pcb etching and building the Whammy amp. It started with a preamp board i bought from a local diy group, it use a clone GM regulator with AD797 and with AD586 voltage reference. I only need to build the buffer. The buffer then would be wire with the preamp board, including Input, wire for gain/feedback, voltage supply from the rectifier. The buffer has it own regulater with a pair of LM317/337, a relay protection circuit, Oyaide 102CCS as hookup from preamp to the buffer and used IRF540/9540 for output.
I tested it with AD797 and the result is pretty good.
I still have a bunch of 2SJ407/2SK2381 too but I'm not sure if they could be used for audio, so that's for future upgrade.
 

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Issues with Dale RN55 resistors supplied with kit

The marked:
  • 47 ohm resistors measured 29 ohms (over 35% variance!)
  • 100 ohm resistors measured 64 ohms (45% variance)
That's a significant deviation from the marked number and tolerance limit. Anyone one else seeing this?

All other resistors measured within tolerances.
 
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Finished my WHAMMY about 1 month ago - very nice headphone amp, and I love the case from the store as well, lets us all finish these amps in a very nice way.

What does it sound like ?
In stock configuration sounds great (op amps and input caps etc) , in my opinion it sounds better than my SPL phonitor , the sennheiser HDVD800 in balanced mode slightly pips it,

I was wondering what others think about changing the op amps and is it really an issue - from my side the biggest difference is the headphones used. This amp really sing with Sennheiser HD800 (using a chord mojo as the input) these sound much better than my Focal Clear's, yet to try my try SE846 IEMs.
 
I was wondering what others think about changing the op amps and is it really an issue - from my side the biggest difference is the headphones used. This amp really sing with Sennheiser HD800 (using a chord mojo as the input) these sound much better than my Focal Clear's, yet to try my try SE846 IEMs.
My experience has been that different opamps do actually impart a slightly different sonic signature. It's more apparent with the WHAMMY than with other gear I've tweaked.

I shorted the input caps and am using a pair of OPA828 (with 0.1uF film decoupling caps across V+/V- & GND), and am using 100uF Panasonic FR instead of 220uF after the SparkOs Voltage Regs. Probably have to be careful with the 828 and oscillation. I've not measured it to verify.
This amp is awesome, and pairs very nicely with my HD800S. I say try a couple different opamps and see what you think.
 
The low ohm resistors measure low was related to low battery in my multimeter. 😱 Thanks 6L6 for the pointer.

BTW, it sounds marvelous.

Question: How are people wiring the white front panel LED? What resistor is recommended to inline with the LED when hooked to power supply output?