Hello everyone... i just saw the picture below and i would like your opinion.... is there any value in such a practice?
I quote the comment :
it's from here: http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2018/05/whammy-pass-labs-diy-headphone-amp.html
I quote the comment :
it's from here: http://www.diyaudioblog.com/2018/05/whammy-pass-labs-diy-headphone-amp.html
If you're asking whether or not it's beneficial to install all those bypass caps, YMMV. Lots and lots of discussions re: bypass caps in almost every application and for almost every project out there. I look at it this way... one of the most brilliant designers in audio didn't put them in, so who am I to second guess. But.... this is DIY, and we often go overboard, and we often just want to know if anything can be "better". I'd recommend building one and getting it functioning without them per the original design. Then if you're feeling adventurous, build another one with them and/or add them to your existing build. I am sure others would love to hear your thoughts re: before and after. More importantly, you'll know for yourself whether it had any value.
If you're asking about cleaning your boards... again, YMMV, and it largely depends on the type of flux being used. Most flux in most current solders intended for this use-case is "no clean" flux. Either way, I always clean my boards even when using no-clean flux. It makes it much easier for me to inspect my joints, and it makes me feel good.
If you're asking about cleaning your boards... again, YMMV, and it largely depends on the type of flux being used. Most flux in most current solders intended for this use-case is "no clean" flux. Either way, I always clean my boards even when using no-clean flux. It makes it much easier for me to inspect my joints, and it makes me feel good.
This kind of shunting was a big deal in 15 years ago.... Since then it has its pro and contra for success in sound quality.
As for my personal reference.... I can tell you that it has its right purpose in the PSU line. Right at the regulator or in some/most case very close to the opamp.
As for sound output I try to avoid this. I prefer a very good quality cap over the shunt version. Better to have a good Elna Cerafine or Silmic II then some simple cap with shunt.I still have a bunch of NOS Siemens B45178 tantalum caps which I fund very good for line in and output. or still use Tantalum for PSU.
Thank you for your answers! I will follow the advice of both of you. I am waiting some last things from mouser and i will start building the amp probably next week so i will try both versions and i will post my impressions.... but with caps only in the PSU line.... Funny thing is that i was about to try the exact opposite..... Also i will add a gain selector (hopefullly.... i believe i 've planned everything correctly) and pre-amp output so i will upload some photos of the process... Lastly i already have OPA1612, AD825 and AD746 and i will share my thoughts on them.....
Question: Due to a logistic planning error, I’ve completed the PSU portion of the build AND populated the other board resistors. Can I still check the PSU voltage safely?
Also, I know this was discussed somewhere else, but can’t find it. Does it matter whether the 25v caps (vs 50v) go in c3/4 or in c9/28?
So I finally managed to do an extensive audition with the balanced Whammy and the HIFMAN HE6seV2s.
First tried the Whammy connected to the Tape Out of the Preamp. It Sounded clean and pleasant, but I was at the volume was set at max and the HE6s are quite power-hungry. The bass was present, but not solid.
So next I connected to the PreOuts, maxed out the Whammy volume, and used the PreAmp Volume. Now I had the power but noticed a slight loss in the midrange and upper resolution. I went back and forth between the connection methods for a while to evaluate and noticed the PreOut connection sounded better and better.
Perhaps the Pre and Whammy were not warmed up enough and the Burson V6 classics are probably still breaking in.
Suffice to say that when I just sat back and just enjoyed the music, it was an awesome experience. It was so rich and engaging with all music genres. It was quite spectacular.
I have not tried the Burson V6 vivids, but I can confirm the Classics are so enjoyable that I don't intend to investigate Opamps further.
Can't wait to get back to it.
Thanks again to Wayne & 6L6 for this wonderful project.
Hi All,
Completed my whammy a few days ago.
Tried the RC4580, OPA2134PA and Currently using the OPA1656.
Outputs are Fairchild FQP3N30, FQP3P30.
I took a quick THD measurement at 1 kHz and 20 kHz.
I did have some noise on my bench on the day.
This measurement was at approx 1 Vrms with a 32 Ohm load. ~30 mW.
Overall Wayne's design is really neat and it was a fun build.
Thanks for the design Wayne and thanks for the build guide Jim.
- Dan.
Completed my whammy a few days ago.
Tried the RC4580, OPA2134PA and Currently using the OPA1656.
Outputs are Fairchild FQP3N30, FQP3P30.
I took a quick THD measurement at 1 kHz and 20 kHz.
I did have some noise on my bench on the day.
This measurement was at approx 1 Vrms with a 32 Ohm load. ~30 mW.
Overall Wayne's design is really neat and it was a fun build.
Thanks for the design Wayne and thanks for the build guide Jim.
- Dan.
Where is the easiest/safest place to attach the power led, and how is the resistor attached? A good pic would be super helpful if anyone has one.
Also, a detailed pic of the wiring attached to both input RCAs and output RCAs with resistors would be helpful as well.
Also, a detailed pic of the wiring attached to both input RCAs and output RCAs with resistors would be helpful as well.
Perfect, thank you! I knew I’d seen it, but couldn’t find the post. Did you use a 10k resistor?
Got my Whammy ready for the first test today. Sounds amazing! Thanks to the society , diystore and Wayne! Just one strange thing I noticed at the end of the listening session, I had powered down my DAC and I noticed there appeared hum in the Whammy when I touch the volume knob. Also if i touch the metal parts at the front of the pot. Have I missed some grounding here or anyone else notice this? Perhaps remove some of the anodizing on the front panel of the chassis, where it touches the pot? Any similar observations or thoughts?
yup, improvise
pot metal body must be in contact with case, which must be in contact with safety GND
pot metal body must be in contact with case, which must be in contact with safety GND
Yeah, I noticed I had to grind away the black anodizing from the stock black chassis to make a good saftey ground , so makes sense I have to do the same at the pot. I was a bit in a hurry there to get the hear the thing, and man was it worth it. Could not stand still in my shack with this thing plaing trough my Senn 650's and just a cheep Fiio DAC. Now to test with some better can's and some better DAC's. Much fun ahead 🙂
