Wayne's BA 2018 linestage

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Thanks for that input. One of the reasons I am interested in a fully balanced version of the BA2018 is because I want to hear how it sounds with the my Aleph-J which I built without SE inputs. I did try using my BA2018 with my Aleph J using an RCA/XLR adapter and it sounded terrible which surprised me.




I built a balanced version of the BA2018 integrated with a UFSP phono section. I feed it into my Aleph J amplifier, the BA2018 replaced the Balanced B1 Korg, I used with B&W 804D speakers.
When I first installed the BA2018, the magic of 2H was gone with the B&W speakers. I replaced the B&W speakers with Lowther PM2A speakers in Medallion 2 cabinets, the 3D soundstage was back with a clarity of sound I did not hear with the Balanced B1 korg preamp.
I stacked the BA2018 boards in the enclosure to save space.
 

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I built a balanced version of the BA2018 integrated with a UFSP phono section. I feed it into my Aleph J amplifier, the BA2018 replaced the Balanced B1 Korg, I used with B&W 804D speakers.
When I first installed the BA2018, the magic of 2H was gone with the B&W speakers. I replaced the B&W speakers with Lowther PM2A speakers in Medallion 2 cabinets, the 3D soundstage was back with a clarity of sound I did not hear with the Balanced B1 korg preamp.
I stacked the BA2018 boards in the enclosure to save space.
Thanks. Very cool looking build. Quite a bit more professional than mine.

A couple of questions. What did you mean by the "magic of 2H" and why do you think that was specific to the B&W speakers?

Also, it looks like you went with much beefier capacitors than the BA2018 kit comes with. Do you think that made a difference?
 
H2 is shorthand for second harmonic distortion.

I am also using the BA2018 into Aleph J monoblocks, but with all single ended signal path. They sound lovely into Klipsch Forte II.

How old is your Aleph J? After I first built the Aleph J, it was very edgy and annoying for a few months. I would only play music through it when I wasn't home. I would switch to the M2 when actually listening to music. After a few months though, it settled into a great sounding amp. I've never had any other amp that exhibited the same behavior.


Thanks for that input. One of the reasons I am interested in a fully balanced version of the BA2018 is because I want to hear how it sounds with the my Aleph-J which I built without SE inputs. I did try using my BA2018 with my Aleph J using an RCA/XLR adapter and it sounded terrible which surprised me.
 
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Joined 2013
Paid Member
When the balanced B1 korg preamp was used, the B&W speakers had a wide and deep soundstage. I've had friends who heard the system say they heard instruments playing next to them. When I switched to the BA2018 preamp, that 3D soundstage was missing with the B&W speakers. The sound clarity was exceptional, yet it lacked the depth I so enjoyed.
The Lowthers changed the depth issue I had with the B&Ws, not sure why the B&Ws didn't like the BA2018.
I used Nichicon green capacitors because I remember reading some where that Wayne preferred them. Not sure if it helps or hurts.
I do enjoy the BA2018 with the Aleph J, I am hearing a sound from the system that I enjoy immensely. The UFSP phono section adds even more to the sound quality.
 
My version of the BA2018.

To save time and effort I decided to install it into my Korg B1 chassis, with a PO89ZB-based +/-15V power supply and my own pcb for delayed turn-on, relay-switched inputs, and a 12V 25mA Trigger circuit.

It all fit nicely into the 6.5” x 8.25” Korg chassis along with a Muses chip-based IR remote controlled volume control and, surprisingly, I didn’t have to pack it in.

Tomorrow I will recheck every connection and then have a listen. I already know that I can keep the offset in the 0.4~2mV range so that's OK.
 

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H2 is shorthand for second harmonic distortion.

I am also using the BA2018 into Aleph J monoblocks, but with all single ended signal path. They sound lovely into Klipsch Forte II.

How old is your Aleph J? After I first built the Aleph J, it was very edgy and annoying for a few months. I would only play music through it when I wasn't home. I would switch to the M2 when actually listening to music. After a few months though, it settled into a great sounding amp. I've never had any other amp that exhibited the same behavior.
My Aleph J is 3 months old. It never sounded edgy or annoying to me and if there was any change with burn-in I didn't hear it. I compared it to the F4, F5, and F6 and the Aleph J was my clear preference although the F6 has a very interesting sound. I also compared it to the PS Audio M700 monoblocks. That was challenging. The M700 were probably technically better in the way they handled details and the top end but I enjoyed listening to the Aleph J more. Once I built the M2x I compared each of the daughter cards I built against the Aleph J. Many of them sounded almost identical although the M2x usually had a bit more vibrancy/drama/dynamics or pop. Some of the opamp based cards had a lot more of that wow factor but at the cost of some glare, especially with the BA2018. What I have settled on is the M2x with the Tucson daughter card and Burson V6 Classic opamps. That glare is largely gone and the presence and details etc. etc. seem much better than the Aleph J on my system. But I do wonder if the BA2018 and the slightly more rounded sound of the Aleph J wouldn't be magical thus my question about balanced versions of the BA2018.
 
Dimensions

The diyAudiostore shows the mounting hole dimensions for the BA2018 as 70x100mm. As per Wayne's post #981 and actual measurements the dimensions are 70x110mm. Might bear correcting on the Store page in case someone forges ahead with drilling a chassis. Ask me how i realised...:):)
 
The diyAudiostore shows the mounting hole dimensions for the BA2018 as 70x100mm. As per Wayne's post #981 and actual measurements the dimensions are 70x110mm. Might bear correcting on the Store page in case someone forges ahead with drilling a chassis. Ask me how i realised...:):)

Ouch, painful!

Something I do when I have only one copy of a pcb is to immediately trace it accurately on quality paper before I stuff it -- perimeter plus mounting hole locations -- in three original copies so I can cut a sheet to size and tape it where I want it to go and use a hole punch to hit the exact center of the mounting hole locations followed by drilling.

This is also a useful technique for fitting multiple boards within an enclosure where spacing is tight -- use the paper images first, tape them all down (I use blue painter's masking tape which comes off easily and leaves no residue) and drill when everything has been situated and verified.
 
I do most of my chassis in perspex - except the amps, of course - so the error in this case wasn’t the end of the world. I used the incorrect dimension (now corrected, thanks Jason) in a design using Front Panel Designer. Saving the design as a 100% PDF allows any laser-equipped trophy engraver business to precisely cut a complete chassis, lettering and all. Quite a bit cheaper than metal. Water-jet cutters should allow the same in metal, I’d think.

The FPD/perspex approach allows almost limitless possibilities. It’s fun to design and the ability to get precisely centered, accurate holes is satisfying. You quickly get accustomed to ‘perfection’ so, having gone ahead and done a chassis before I took delivery of the BA2018 I was taken aback when it didn’t ‘bolt in’. Thought I’d made a dumb mistake but tracked it back to the 70x100 dimension I’d used from the store page.
 
Apologies for the off topic. The DAC (first image) is actually made of Corian. Others are perspex. Should give an idea of how its done - all secures with two stainless screws on sides near front.
 

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If you had that experience when you were bored, you should give it a go when you are happy :rofl:

Edit: It’s an atelier. Why not leave it cranked up? Maybe it will inspire your painting - or photography? If you paint I would like to book an au naturel full body painting session for my next trip to the Alps :rofl:
 
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